QuoteDust What does this mean? ... snip they will heat up the same OK, that makes sense, thanks for taking the time to explain that. I have an MKS-Gen-L board in it that has 12v/24v input. Am I correct in thinking that when 24v is applied to the Gen-L board it drops it down to 12v/5v/3.3v (or whatever) for the control-logic and just uses the higher voltage direct to the hot-end and bed? Can Iby StlLooking - General
Hi, I have an Anycubic Delta Plus with a 240mm diameter hotbed. The heat up for temps above 60-C with 12v can be very slow. I was about to buy a 110v heated bed, but looking at the bottom of the current one it is a dual 12v/24v bed with the three pads. Pad 1 is +12v, pad 2 and 3 are soldered together for ground. I have a 24v 15A Power Supply (PS) here so thought I'd give that a try first and saveby StlLooking - General
Quotelowfat It doesn't do any lifting Thanks for the reply, but one of the Marlin programmers I contacted said that it does take a lot of load off the main-board. Gonna go with that fact. Quotelowfat I used mine for about 5 minutes before throwing it back in the closet. What are Octoprint fanbois so afraid of? Five minutes is hardly a fair trial. And, I have been using one on my Delta for sixby StlLooking - General
Hi, Am I correct in thinking that the MKS-TFT32 board does pretty much same thing as Klipper but without a Pi? It has a 32-bit Arm and sends stuff to the printer's main board. The heavy lifting for calculations are all being done in the MKS that then just streams GCode to the main board. It seems to be working fine for about the same cost as a Pi, plus it has a built in touch screen and customby StlLooking - General
QuoteRoberts_Clif TriGorilla is a integrated main board that is integrated with the Mega2560+ramps 1.4; Er, not quite so, it is actually the RAMPS v1.3, but Marlin 1.1.9 now includes a board defiintion for Trigorilla. BUT, that is not what I was asking. I want to change the probing profile. To wit: from Fast->Slow->ReallySlow->Bed to Fast->ReallySlow->Bed QuoteRoberts_Clif Marlinby StlLooking - General
Hi, using 1.1.9 on a delta and the probing is woefully slow. I have tried changing probe speed etc, but the issue is the actual cycle profile. With G33 or G29 it homes to the top then zooms down to about half way. It then slowly approaches the bed until about 30mm above the bed. It then creeps at an even more dead-slow pace to the bed and probe trigger. Repeat a lot of times. I'd like it to zooby StlLooking - General
@Dentist: The Slic3r thing is a good idea, but execution is abysmal. Using Cura I have found "Extra infill wall count," that is a halfway thing between extra walls. It seems to still add to extra exterior walls, but the print time is quicker than just using the main "wall count" for the same total walls. I don't care why, but Wall Count = 3 and Extra infill wall count=3 is about 10% faster tby StlLooking - General
QuoteSupraGuy My solution was to put a set of 1mm diameter holes spaced 1.6mm from the main hole and from each other around the hole that I wanted reinforced. Thanks, I had done some messing around like that but it was a pain with a lot of holes to draw. I found that 5 small radial holes as you described forced enough fill in with Cura to do what I needed. But with a lot of holes it has become aby StlLooking - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Use modifier meshes in slic3r to increase fill density around the holes. OK thanks, I will check that out. I figured the solution would take a little longer to print, but a lot less time than the multiple walls. I assume doing it in CAD means merging the files within Slic3r? I'd prefer to use Cura as I am more familiar with it, but if Slic3r will do the holes, then I wiby StlLooking - General
Hi, does anyone have some ideas on strengthening the walls just for holes so they don't crush down when bolted to something? Using Cura I have set Wall-count to 6 or more and it works OK, but it takes forever to print as all other walls are printed at 6 too. I tried using Slic3r and variable layer heights but same issue. By the time I have defined the appropriate layer-ranges, it is 80% of theby StlLooking - General
Quotedc42 Did you know that RepRapFirmware now runs on Smoothieware-compatible boards? and . No it does not -- well, not yet. It is still in the way too early stages of working. Currently it is not a viable alternative. I managed to get the LCD-12864 screen back-light on, the TFT32 boots, but neither are seeing the MKS-SBASE v1.3 ports. There are no actual installation instructions other thanby StlLooking - General
QuoteMKSA There are links in this thread about how to install RRF. Similar to Smoothie, no compile/upload just copy. Configuration is all done via Gcode mainly in config.sys. Gcode are well documented but one has to pay attention to the differences with the Marlin Gcodes. Got to "translate" you Smoothie, Marlin config. Plenty of reading/learning though. Thanks, but I could not find any links, Iby StlLooking - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
A bit of a long preamble, but I get to the question near the end. I am keen to give this a try having just ripped the MKS-SBASE (v1.3) and the useless smoothiware out of my Anycubic Delta Plus. I have put the Trigorilla Board (TB ) back in with Marlin 1.1.9 but am missing the touch TFT-LCD. I would like to go back to the MKS-SBASE board for the touch LCD, so this sounds promising. But, I cannoby StlLooking - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Thanks, But, JoVo appears to be having many issues at this time and he has the same MKS board I am using. It seems to be presenting more problems than it is offering benefits. A little later on he mentions "6-hours" running OK as a good thing. I have gone back to Marlin 1.1.9 on the Trigorilla (TB ) for stability not excitement. Also the BL-Touch issue seems pretty flaky at best right now.by StlLooking - General
Hi, had to put the Trigorilla Board (TB ) back in the Anycubic Delta as the smoothie software is hopeless. I am missing the touch-screen and now wondering if there is a way to use it with the TB. The TB has an Aux set of jumper-pins with Vcc, Gnd, Tx and Rx but not sure if that can be used or how to do it if it can. Does anyone have information on hooking the TFT-28 or TFT-32 to the TB? I haby StlLooking - General
I don't understand the question. What do you mean by "floating?" All four end-points of the belts are fixed to the carriage so I cannot see where "floating" might come in. Well, unless the carriage is made of TPU! Are you confusing the CoreXY belt layout with an H-Bot? That can and almost certainly will float or bind unless you have a very, very, very rigid setup.by StlLooking - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDust the standard 2004 lcd uses 3 digital pins for the encoder and switch. Ahh, OK, thanks for the detailed explanation, it is very much appreciated. As you can tell, I am quite a way out of my depth with this. I was reading on the Repetier site that the Graphics screen can take 0.1 to refresh and slow down Deltas, so I figured I would go back to the 20x4 o the A6 to get the expanded menu oby StlLooking - General
Thanks, but the A8 uses what looks to be the same board and it has enough pins for the 20x4. In my OP "ZONELABS," I meant "ZONESTAR" as you mentioned. >> Your controller doesn't have enough free IO pins for a standard 20x4 (it uses more pins than all the rest) This would suggest otherwise when making the reverse happen...by StlLooking - General
Hi All, I have an Anet A6 that the LCD has been getting darker and darker until now, full dark. I have a 20x4-LCD board with encoder that came from another older printer with dual ribbon cable connections, EXP1 and EXP2. I set Marlin 1.1.9 for REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_LCD bu get a compile error, "no pins defined." I tried using the same LCD definition (ZONELABS) as the Anet A8 which has the the 2by StlLooking - General
Thanks for the reply, but the printer is not near our home network. And, with Ubuntu/Linux, not quite the same as saving to the drive "C"by StlLooking - Smoothie
Seriously? FM! Abort a print just stops the head where it is? Then I have to amble through the menus to raise the Z a few mm to stop the nozzle melting a divot on the Buildtac. Is there some way to add "raise Z by 5mm on Abort?" Or, "home on Abort?" Or at least turn off the motors (M84) so I can manually push it away from the bed.by StlLooking - Smoothie
Ubuntu 16.04 and latest Smoothieware. I can see the SD and I can save gcode files to it from Slic3r-PE, then going to the LCD menu and "Play" I cannot see the files. Is there some way to refresh the SD card? Thge files are actually there as I can take the SD card out and use a reader. OK, just thought I'd try shutting it down and restarting from cold in the hope it would read the card, is thereby StlLooking - Smoothie
Hi, this is driving me nuts. Decided to put a Mega+RAMPS in the Delta Linear Plus so that I can use a TFT32 touch screen. I installed Marlin 1.1.9 and it's all good except only one endstop toggles between "open" and "TRIGGERED" and that's Z- for the probe. I have spent 4 hours searching and trying stuff and finally I am here to ask for help. I have gone back to the LCD that came with the Anycby StlLooking - Delta Machines
Hi All, Is it possible to auto-probe (with 6mm proximity probe) for Z-Offset before each print? For some reason I sometimes need to manually adjust the z-Offset before a print as it can be off by a 0.03mm to 0.09mm and it makes a big difference to bed adhesion. Delta printer so the bed is not moving. I saw a video of a guy using Marlin and he is able to include, I think it is a G29, in the GCoby StlLooking - Smoothie
OK, as to the the config: I took Smoothieboard.delta/config from GitHub and changed the Steps from 100 to 80, the arm length to 251.5 and the offset 114.14 and that's it. More of the same ol', same ol'. Exact same high spot. Not sure why you seem to keep thinking this is my printer's fault. Clearly turning the glass 90-degrees and the high-spot staying there means something. I printed up (on myby StlLooking - Smoothie
Quotearthurwolf Can I see your config ? Do you have calibration enabled or both calibration and grid levelling ? Thanks, I have both Calibration and Grid Levelling set to True as I described the process in the OP above. Should I only have ONE defined? I will turn off Calibration, do another Levelling and get back to you with the Config if still no joy.by StlLooking - Smoothie
@arthurwolf: Anything? Ignoring? No idea? Anyone reading these anymore? It just occurred to me that where that light-spot is, is where the probe stops at the end of the G31 cycle. Could this be something not being recorded correctly before it lifts at that last position and then waits for me to do the M374+M500 etc?by StlLooking - Smoothie
I have been using Smoothie on my Anycubic Delta without the auto-level after adjusting my bed to be level with the head. I am still using the same heated bed and Borocilcate glass and decided to move up to a 110v Silicon heating for faster warm up times. This meant resetting the bed level. After the 110v install and being somewhat tenacious, I decided to give the auto-level one more try. I downlby StlLooking - Smoothie
Ubuntu 16.04, Anycubic Delta Hi, just installed the latest .bin, Dec-10, from memory. Decided to do an auto-PID (M303 E0 S220) and it starts at 80-C and cycles 8 times then goes to 81-C and does it all again. I used the instructions on the Smoothie web-page and I have been waiting twenty minutes and it is just now doing 213 cycle. // Autopid Status - 213.5/220 @64 0/8 // Autopid Status -by StlLooking - Smoothie
Hi, This is a cap for a propane tank and it has an Acme-thread. Latest version of three Slicers, (.appimage) running under Ubuntu 16.04. From Left to Right, the pic shows sliced with Cura, Slic3r-PE and Slic3r. Slic3r and Slic3r-PE both have lumps on the threads. All three have the same settings for Layers, speeds, Retraction etc. I **think** it has something to do with Slic3r's Retraction (5by StlLooking - Slic3r