Quotegkr Thank you, hacker. The one thing I wanted to mention is that the connector that E3D provides to connect the PTFE tube to the extruder motor, won't fit the extruder provided by Sintron. And I had trouble getting the ones out of the tubing that came with the Sintron hot-end. So although I would have preferred to use the tube that came with the E3D, I was unable to do so, and ended up reby nebbian - Delta Machines
I use a mobius action camera as a webcam on my mac, it works well for me. Using VNC and screen sharing I can check on the progress of the print from my phone anywhere in the house, it works well for me. I hope this helps.by nebbian - General
I've drilled out my M6 push fitting to allow the tube to go all the way through. Take it slowly, it's brass so your drill bit might grab. Also really try to get it straight, there isn't a lot of meat between the hole and the inside of the thread. Blow it out well once you've done it so that metal fragments don't get down into the hotend. I like having the tube go through the fitting so thaby nebbian - Reprappers
Has anyone considered using a 'normal' carbon face mask? Ie one with just a layer of paper, some carbon, then another layer of paper in the shape of a face. I bought a couple of these, as well as a 90mm fan not too long ago with the aim of seeing if this would reduce the ABS fumes a bit. I think that airflow might be better with this setup. Yet to try it though.by nebbian - General
QuoteDust If you put two filament together you get tooth paste like effects. ie stripey It doesn’t mix them, more just forces them together Really need some sort of mixing chamber Interesting, thanks for the insight. How would you go about designing a mixing chamber to achieve this? I'd imagine that you'd need some form of tortuous path, or baffles or something. I came across a thesis wheby nebbian - General
Interesting idea. I've been considering something like this: Another option is to wrap some foam around the rubber bands -- open cell foam is a good absorber of vibrations. Tbh my flying extruder doesn't shake around all that much anyway, certainly not enough to notice on the print.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Wiireless, I can pretty much guarantee that your steps per mm is off. To measure this, home your machine, then get a set of calipers and place them so that they will measure the carriage movement precisely (one jaw against the frame, another against the carriage). Now move the carriage down by say 50mm using pronterface. I can guarantee that your carriage won't move down 50mm. Calculate the pby nebbian - Delta Machines
Is there any chance you could put the Duet troubleshooting into a new thread? Seeing as how the Sintron kit doesn't ship with Duet electronics, and if someone is actually after Duet troubleshooting advice they'd be unlikely to look in here. Thanksby nebbian - Delta Machines
I've been looking for a specific colour of filament for a while, and am struggling to find it. One roll that I thought would work turned out to be way too light in colour. So I'm considering making a filament extruder to mix two colours of filament, and then extrude a string of my new colour. My first thought was to use something like a cyclops hot end, two extruders with ramps-like control,by nebbian - General
The problem is the pressure stored in the long bowden cable when doing infill, is transferring to the extruder when doing perimeters. Set your infill speed and extrusion width to be the same as your perimeter speed and extrusion width.by nebbian - Printing
That's normal when using belts around an idler bearing, instead of a belt around a toothed idler pulley (with bearing). It's due to the belt teeth hitting the idler bearing and causing the carriage to move slightly. To lessen the effect, slow down your external perimeters, or install toothed idler pulleys. You can also flip the belt so that the flat part goes around the idler bearing, I didby nebbian - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Maximum feed rates in the firmware are absolute limits that will be enforced no matter what you tell the machine to do in the slicer. There may be settings for acceleration, distance, and speed of retraction in the firmware somewhere, separate from the absolute speed limit you posted. Again, I agree with you, but please understand that when I used Pronterface, the speedby nebbian - Slic3r
Quotethe_digital_dentist Where are you setting the retract speed to 100 mm/sec? If it's in the firmware but you don't check the "use firmware retraction" box in Slic3r, it will use whatever the numbers are in Slic3r. If you're setting it in Slic3r and and you don't have the "use firmware retraction" box checked, it may be that the speed is too high and your extruder can't execute a 100mm/sec moby nebbian - Slic3r
Thanks Paul. It turns out that I had a 25 mm/s limit set in firmware /Eeprom. What confused me is that pressing the extrude/retract buttons in Pronterface seemed to go at full speed (100mm/s), while printing was limited to 25mm/s in firmware/eeprom.by nebbian - Slic3r
Quoteo_lampe Quotelloydy Is the ArduinoMega not fast enough? It is definitely the first bottleneck you will encounter, when you have your printer tuned and try to print faster. Circles are the worst. Any 32bit controller will do, but IMHO Duet boards with DC42s firmware are best for deltas. -Olaf Don't drink the kool-aid. Marlin/Ramps works fine and makes lovely circles. There are way more eby nebbian - Delta Machines
Hi, I've got an issue I'm trying to sort out, where the extruder speed in the printer settings doesn't seem to be taking effect while printing. I've got it set to 100 mm/s, but while printing it seems to be retracting a lot slower than that. Setting the retract speed to 100 mm/s in pronterface and clicking the button makes it move quickly, as expected. But when using a file produced by Slic3rby nebbian - Slic3r
QuoteRossini any chance you release your flying extruder on thingiverse? Looks fantastic. Thanks Rossini, Here you go: You'll have to bodge up your own brackets to mount the rubber bands on your carriages, I just used some thin wire I had lying around.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Just bear in mind that any time you use a percentage in the slic3r settings, that this is multiplied by layer height. So the 230% in the settings above mean an extrusion width of 0.23mm if you're using a layer height of 0.1mm. This means a terrible first layer if you're using a 0.4mm nozzle. I recommend a first layer extrusion width of 0.6mm, (type "0.6" into the first layer extrusion width seby nebbian - Printing
QuoteDjDemonD Here is a marvin printed on my kossel at 0.1mm layer height. That's a nice Marvin, well done! I find white models very difficult to photograph well, the detail always ends up being washed out. Are you using ABS or PLA? Do you have a layer fan? Your keyring seems better than mine, but I think the eyes on mine are better than yours. Hard to tell from the picture.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Sungod, That doesn't look like resonance to me, if it were then the period would stay the same as the diameter changes. From the picture, the artefacts follow the diameter of the piece. This suggests to me that it's a model or slicing issue, ie not enough facets. I hope this helpsby nebbian - Delta Machines
Hey Sungod, I wasn't getting resonance artefacts before, so if they appear then I know where they're from. I'll certainly look out for them. I did notice the extruder motor wobbling around a bit, perhaps it needs some damping. Can you post a picture of the artefacts you're seeing?by nebbian - Delta Machines
Results previously were pretty good, but not spectacular. Good enough for most purposes I guess. But now... Oh. My. God. The one on the left is with the old bowden cable. The red one on the right is with the new flying extruder. No cleanup on the pieces at all, these are straight off the build plate. Notice any differences?by nebbian - Delta Machines
Thank you all for posting your ideas and experiences with this system. I finally put mine together tonight, here's a picture of it: Haven't had much time with it yet, but I have high hopes. I've hit the limits of a long bowden tube, this one is 5 times shorter than the old system so that's got to be 5 times better, right? Looking forward to seeing how it performs.by nebbian - Delta Machines
ImShogun, Are you using 1.8mm ID tube, or 2mm tube? I recently bought some bowden tube rfrom robotdigg, and it turns out to have an ID of 1.8mm. Filament has high friction in there, especially after being squashed by the extruder assembly. I have some other bowden PTFE tube that is more like 2mm ID, where the squashed filament moves freely. Also, another option is something called a "Flyingby nebbian - Delta Machines
+1 on Bill's idea of going hotter. I was getting layer adhesion issues on lego-style pieces when I was at 235 degrees, now I print at 245 degrees and no more issues (no other changes). This was confirmed in multiple tests, when I was at 235 I could separate layers with my fingernail and the parts would delaminate when separating the lego pieces, but at 245 they are stuck well and truly. Note tby nebbian - General
OK here's a direct replacement for the Sintron fan mount. Old: (note the metal guide I put in to stop the fan from blowing down onto the part) New: Part is available here:by nebbian - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe How did your GT2 belt fit in the U-clamps of the carriers? My belt ( non branded ) was a bit thick and I had to use a lot of lubrication and force to squeeze it in. My belts (the sintron ones) were a tight squeeze, you had to use some force and hold your tongue just right, but they went in OK once you got it in the right spot. The main issue I've got with the RobotDigg carriages/by nebbian - Delta Machines
+1 to PurpleSensation's suggestions. If I have a problem with a part sticking, then I: * Clean the surface with acetone * Add a 4mm brim to the part in slic3r When the first perimeter purge is being put down, if this isn't the right height you will be able to see it. The lines should merge nicely into each other. If they are translucent (nozzle too low), or slightly not touching (nozzle tooby nebbian - Delta Machines
Thanks for that gkr. I printed out your shroud, it clips onto the sintron heatsink nicely (ABS, 0.3mm). However it appears to be designed for a much smaller fan than the one that was in my Sintron kit. Did you change the fan on yours?by nebbian - Delta Machines