I know that this doesn't help your situation, but the chimera has grub screws to allow you to adjust the height of each nozzle. The chinese clones are about the same price as a single hotend, which means that it's a no-brainer to get one of those instead of another 'normal' hotend.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe The hardest part will be to drill them 100% centered. Compared to Traxxas or other rod ends, it's another hurdle. A bit off center and your effector will tilt in any direction. Let's see if some one comes up with a professional rod-kit ( hint, hint ) -Olaf If it were me I'd design and print up a jig to both clamp the ball, and centre the drill. Wouldn't be hard to design somethby nebbian - Delta Machines
You can get good results, but you need to print sloooowwwly. I use 6mm/s and even then that's pushing it. Btw 3mm is a lot stiffer than 1.75mm, but there are always tradeoffs... 3mm moves a lot slower than 1.75 so you end up with just as many control issues.by nebbian - General
Does anyone have a close up picture of this system, attached to a delta printer? I'm keen to see how it all fits together. Thanks in advanceby nebbian - General
For those that are wondering... My original rubber band hack did work quite well, although I've now moved to linear bearings. They work better Although it has to be said, I can't see any difference in print quality between rollers with the rubber band hack, and linear bearings, at least at this stage. I have been chasing a particular print issue for months, where external perimeters outsideby nebbian - Delta Machines
To turn it on I think you just need to find this line in Configuration.h: #define EXTRUDERS 1 and change it to 2.by nebbian - Delta Machines
I just spent all morning trying to get a particular part sliced, with no luck as it kept on crashing. It's not a particularly large part, only 14mm x 14mm x 10mm, and not all that complex. I even went as far as trying to compile slic3r, gosh what a mission that was... and it was eventually unsuccessful. However there is a ray of hope, I discovered that the perimeters setting was causing the crby nebbian - Slic3r
Quotedc42 QuoteDrDoggy folger kossel mini 2020 rev b audrino with marlin and ramps boards With 8-bit electronics running a delta, the printing speed may be limited by the electronics, and the travel speed certainly will be. I can't say what maximum speed you will be able to achieve because I don't use 8-bit electronics, which is why I was waiting for someone else to answer you. However, some peoby nebbian - Delta Machines
Although those are my settings in DrDoggy's thread, I'm still interested in hearing how other people are solving their printing problems. I've found that you need to keep tweaking, watching, adjusting, hypothesising, reading, and just generally practicing before you'll find some settings that work really well for you. In my case I'm printing a set of interlocking pieces (similar to Lego) forby nebbian - Delta Machines
When I built my printer, I read up about how the best way to do things was to flip the belt so that the smooth side ran over the idler bearing, so that's how I built mine. Then when upgrading my roller carriages to linear bearings, I changed from the belt riding on the smooth side of the idler bearings to the toothed side due to the way that the robotdigg carriages were set up. This resulted iby nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteDrDoggy Got my first half a$$ print to finish yesterday without any lifting what so ever!! but should be able to perfect next run. any chance we could post the other slicer settings , i would like to see what you guys use for layers, infill , support and speed. Good to hear that you're making progress. It can be frustrating when you've got a problem that's stopping you from making an acby nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteRossini Hey @all, has anyone a tipp for me: the pom-rollers on the carriages have a lot of play on my kossel mini. how to solve that? they have so much play, that the force from the bowden tube tilt the effector. other bearings? other wheels? order some linear-rails? thanks I had this problem as well. I made some videos and sent them to Sintron, they sent me some more wheels and I usedby nebbian - Delta Machines
Yep as the good dentist noticed, you're way overextruding. There's an extrusion factor parameter in slic3r that you can tweak if your filament is not exactly as fat as it should be. Also the ovals look like backlash in your X movement. Can you wiggle the nozzle back and forth with your fingers? See if there's any slop in the system, that's what causes round holes to become ovals like this. Iby nebbian - Printing
NPN. No extra components required. When I was setting one up for a friend he was very nervous about having no extra components, so we put diode in series with the signal line of the sensor. This worked just fine. I'd avoid using a resistor voltage divider, because unless you understand what the pullups are doing inside the arduino chip, you can stop the signal making its way into the arduinoby nebbian - General
QuoteLarsK Quotenebbian The way to get good squish on the first layer is to set your first layer extrusion width to be more than your nozzle width in your slicer. I'm having good results with 0.5-0.7mm while using a 0.4mm nozzle. Don't use a percentage, use a manual extrusion width. Good points. I have no experience with that approach. I can't seem to find the option in Slic3r? But next timeby nebbian - Delta Machines
Realthor, Could you be measuring a twist in the top frame, relative to the bottom frame? If your square isn't perpendicular to the two smooth rods, then you might be seeing a twist. Alternatively your square might not be square.by nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteLarsK (1) Increase the Z-length by 0.2 (printer settings). and set the first layer bed height to 0.3 (slicer settings). This will push your nozzle closer to the bed. Do this even if you think you have perfect bed alignment. This will "trick" the printer into really pushing the first print layers onto the bed. Have a look at these images to understand. To a very rough first approximatioby nebbian - Delta Machines
Thanks for that Bobys, exactly what I was after. Unfortunately I wasn't able to run that gcode file, even after lots of manually editing the start and end parameters -- the first time I tried it I ended up with really hard head crash into my PEI bed, which has left a permanent mark right in the middle. Oh well such is life. I tried several times to edit that file, and finally got something toby nebbian - Printing
Just make a frequency to voltage circuit, hung off the 'step' input to the stepper driver.by nebbian - General
Thanks for that Bobby, but I really want the gcode file that you used to print your cube. Any chance you can post it please?by nebbian - Printing
Thanks for that Bobby, it helps a lot. Would you be able to post your gcode for the cube please? I'll try throwing that through my printer to see what happens. Are you printing in PLA or ABS? I printed 4 more cubes last night, with no real improvement despite setting the extrusion rate to be crazy low and setting ALL the speeds to 20 mm/s. I'm running out of ideas here.by nebbian - Printing
QuoteBoByS Yep I know that and I don't think that this is a lot. In my case for the Infill: 140% it's 0.56mm but I really doubt that the printer could make a difference between 0.5 and 0.6. I'm just playing with the values until I have a good results. Basically I live in the 0.2 and 0.3 layer heights. My best advice could be only to put 0's everywhere and look at the print. They are based on thby nebbian - Printing
It really sounds like the hotend temps aren't high enough. If you have the wrong thermistor selected then the displayed temps will be wrong. Have you tried either lower print speeds, or higher hotend temps? Also double check your thermistor settings.by nebbian - Printing
Bobys, thanks for your input. Did you know that the percentages are based on the layer height? So if you choose 150%, you might think that this is a lot, but with a 0.1mm layer height this means an extrusion width of 0.15mm. With a nozzle of 0.4mm this extrusion width seems crazy to me. I've had a massive weekend with my wife's 40th, lots of people staying here so haven't been able to try theby nebbian - Printing
It's a 3 layer raft, and yes I have checked the extrusion rates.by nebbian - Printing
Thanks for the responses. I did a few more cubes last night while changing a lot of parameters, and am starting to think that this is due to a combination of factors, namely: 1) Too high a print speed on infill 2) A long bowden cable These two conspire to increase the pressure at the nozzle while doing infill, so that then when doing the perimeters for the next layer it overextrudes slightly duby nebbian - Printing
Thanks Downunder. Answers to your questions: I haven't tried other slicing software, but that's my next step. The preview shows no lip. The lip has the same number of layers as the top infill (it's 0.8mm wide, the same height as the top surface). If anyone wants to try to print it themselves I'd be really grateful. No support needed, no need to change infill settings, it's a hollow cube with aby nebbian - Printing
Hi, I've been chasing this issue ever since starting to print (3 months or so). Basically when printing a cube with a solid top surface (but hollow inside), the outside surface has a small lip of about 0.1mm size around the perimeter, which corresponds to where the top solid surface is located. I created a test piece that is quite small to demonstrate the issue, which is attached. This is smaby nebbian - Printing
Just measured mine, it's 220 mm.by nebbian - Delta Machines
You can't have pronterface and arduino talking to the board at the same time. Disconnect pronterface before uploading.by nebbian - Delta Machines