QuoteGrAndAG Actually, z-probe allen key should go through opposite hole in hot-end mount. I.e, in aluminum mounts this hole even has smaller diameter then others, and it definitely points on the fact that this hole is not for screw. If it still stuck (mine is not) you can drill this hole (in the mount and the effector) and insert PTFE tube there. Well I'll be... You're almost certainly rigby nebbian - Delta Machines
More upgrades. I was sick of my probe binding and not working properly, so made a piece of metal like this, with a piece of teflon tube inside it: It gets attached to the effector like this: It works quite well, no more binding, the guide really helps to keep the allen key where it should be. Now I just need to upgrade to the RC of marlin-dev to actually use the thing! Someone smarter thby nebbian - Delta Machines
Have you got a picture of your issues there Sir Death? Are the gaps between your perimeters and the infill? I had some issues, but need to see a picture before we can diagnose. Slic3r certainly does seem to have some strange ways of deciding where to put filament some times.by nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak Also, I noticed that I was not getting enough filament and my parts were kinda off. Small parts that is. Im trying to print LEGOs which are impossible. Not impossible at all, I'm printing interlocking pieces that are quite similar to lego (my own design to get around copyright issues, but same principles). I've got good interlock, strong click, separates nicely. I had to go downby nebbian - Delta Machines
Thanks Sir Death I'm printing those perimeters at 40 mm/s (20 mm/s for external perimeters, but all of them are delaminating), with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layer height. The level of detail is really nice, repeatability is excellent, the only concern is that I might be getting a bit too hot. If you say that it's normal then I'll just shrug my shoulders and accept that that's just the way toby nebbian - Delta Machines
Does anyone know which thermistor setting to use in the marlin configuration? I seriously don't trust the Sintron guys to know or set up their software properly. I've been using 1 for the hotend, but am having to go to 255 degrees for printing ABS which seems high to me. If I go lower in temperature then the parts have layer delamination issues when you really stress them. 255 is the lowest tby nebbian - Delta Machines
DrTak, I've found that the most reliable way to calibrate the output size is to measure your diagonal rods as precisely as you can. You need to measure from the centre of the round ball to the centre of the other round ball. Plug that number in, and then calibrate the smooth rod offset so that you get a flat print surface. Then you're DONE with adjusting those measurements. No more printing,by nebbian - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe Now the pulling force on the carrier-wheels is always aiming to the center-ring. No "forced wobble" anymore. It's good to see someone improve my 'quick hack' :-) Your centre ring will still move around when the carriages move up and down (it won't stay centred), and because the springs are shorter than the rubber bands, the difference in force between retracted and extended willby nebbian - Delta Machines
Quotetheda1 My Heatbed would not come up to temperature at all. (86Degrees instead of 110) Larger wire (20 Amp) from Power supply to 12 volt relay the Thermister on the heatbed will cycle Ramps and then the relay to keep the temperature Correct and connect Ramps output to Relay to actuate All heat problems on the ramps board disappear and full voltage can get to the heat bed. Car relay is 30 Ampsby nebbian - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe I disagree with nebbians rubberband theory. When the rubbers tension is unequal, the carriers will be dragged in one direction. As the tension changes, the carriers will be dragged the other way... You'd get "forced wobble". What if you use one string/fishing line and a spring instead of three rubbers? The string would run through rollers and the tension would always be equal forby nebbian - Delta Machines
By the way if anyone is interested in removing the backlash from your wobbly carriage bearings, here's a cheap solution. Add some wire to each screw that holds in your rod ends, and bend a hook into the wire. Then connect the hooks with rubber bands. Works well.by nebbian - Delta Machines
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 203.8 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing. Here's my complete configuration file if that helps.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Quotekingoddball Does anyone have the arm length and radius for sintron metal + traxxas ends? Trying to configure a firmware but not at home right now. arm_length 196.8 # this is the length of an arm from hinge to hinge arm_radius 101.9 # this is the horizontal distance from hinge to hinge Here are my setby nebbian - Delta Machines
If you have counted the teeth on your pulleys, and figured out the right steps per mm, as well as carefully measuring the diagonal rods, and gotten your print surface flat, then your calibration has been done. The problems you are seeing could be to do with many things, including extrusion rate, plastic shrinking, plastic slumping, poor z-height on the initial layer, backlash, etc. If the stepsby nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteLul1811 Yesterday I've noticed that they work perfectly fine when I wire them the wrong way, so that they go down when homing. I would wire them the 'wrong way', and then reverse the direction in the firmware. In configuration.h I would change the following: INVERT_X_DIR INVERT_Y_DIR INVERT_Z_DIR Also have you set the current of your steppers, using a screwdriver and a multimeter?by nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak Thats exactly what I did. I was wondering why Sintron gave us 3 springs. So I made a bed which you can level and it has helped me a lot. I actually had to go to hardware store and buy bigger bolts and bigger springs. Now I can adjust the bed angle to match my hotend. Yes it is a bit tilted and its not related to concave or convex surface. For some reason my hotend likes to slide up tby nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteTha_Reaper Quotenebbian The hotend just slides into the effector... but you do need to remove some material with a dremel. I think I posted a picture on page 3 or thereabouts. found that picture, but mine looks like this: Its kind of snug without the dremel work. would this also work, or does it needs to sit below that ridge? And after that? i just use 6 screws to scre it to the effector,by nebbian - Delta Machines
The hotend just slides into the effector... but you do need to remove some material with a dremel. I think I posted a picture on page 3 or thereabouts.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Heya Reaper, I put a 3mm screw through the heatbed, then onto that I put: A spring A small washer A larger washer Loctite A T nut Repeat for a total of 3 of these adjustment stacks. This allows you to level the bed by adjusting the screws. The loctite allows you to turn the screw a quarter turn anticlockwise, and the T nut will pop out of the extrusion. So you can remove and replace the bedby nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteSlowFoot I guess you have to make sure the horizontal extrusions are all in one plane first. How could they not be? Three points define a plane.by nebbian - Delta Machines
There are two separate things you need to check: 1) Squareness of the towers to the horizontal extrusions 2) Squareness of the towers to the bed These are two completely separate issues. To check 1, you need a carpenters square or angle finder, as well as some diagonal cross braces. Put your square on a horizontal extrusion and square up a tower. When it's square then attach your diagonal brby nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak Wow that looks great. How did you attach the pedastal to the base? 6mm bolts, that go through the plywood base, through the corner piece, and thread into the aluminium vertical extrusion. Check the thingiverse link for more info.by nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteDRTak I am in the process of filing down the rods. But in the interim, how do you hide the wires to make this look pretty. I had friend come over and he was NOT impressed. He had this look like it looks like a rats nest. Self-closing braided wrap is really handy for this: You can also build a pedestal to put your power supply and cables so that everything is all in one place without viby nebbian - Delta Machines
Seriously, buy a sheet of PEI, stick it down, and forget about adhesion issues. No prep, no cleaning, no tape lifting off, no ugly lines in your print where the tape boundaries are... Best upgrade I've done to my printer.by nebbian - General
DrTak, Well done on getting to the stage you're at. You're very close! I think the problem you're having is that the polyfuses have heated up and tripped out. I had similar problems, before I attached a fan that is blowing directly onto the big yellow rectangular polyfuses on the RAMPS board. You can also put a layer of cardboard between the heatbed and your RAMPS board, which helps a bit toby nebbian - Delta Machines
Quotehacker Actually, now that I think of it I have only one question — after connecting motors according to instructions (blue-red-green-black IIRC) I had to invert steppers direction in the firmware. Is that me or is it what you also experienced? Yep. I couldn't spin my connectors around as they would only fit one way on one of the outputs (Z maybe?) that had two rows of pins. So I did it iby nebbian - Delta Machines
Welcome aboard Hacker :-) Mine are connected the same way, red to +, black to -, yellow to signal. They work fine, and the LEDs light up when the switches are triggered.by nebbian - Delta Machines
an easy way to adjust the bed level is to screw the bed down with a spring underneath each screw. You can then loosen or tighten each screw to adjust the levelness of the bed. It's best to get your bed at exactly 90 degrees to your towers before adjusting endstops. I found that a dab of loctite on the screw before it goes into the T nut means that I can take the bed off completely, then replaby nebbian - Delta Machines
Squall, congratulations! That's a very nice knight :-) Great to see another Sintron printing nicely. The PEI plate should be good for many hundreds of prints, as far as I can tell it's the best surface you can get. I'm very happy with it. I'm considering getting a different hobbed gear for my extruder, mine seems to slip a bit when printing fast.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Well, it's not your gcode. So I guess that leaves us with the graphical LCD display issue. I'm using a 4 line LCD character display, which seems to work fine. I hope this helps.by nebbian - Delta Machines