I'm using the network add-board for Ethernet, but I'm guessing you're using the USB? Have you installed the windows driver (if an older version than 10)? You can find on smoothieware.org/usb. Have you tried another USB cable?, one with the ferrite beads is best (the cylinders on the cable near the ends). No USB hubs. You have the Baudrate set the same in Pronterface as you have set in config.txtby Diggrr - Smoothie
The jumpers are to set the microstepping underneath each driver (check the chart for the drivers you're using), plus one yellow one that selects 3.3v or 5v for endstops (I use 3.3 so my 3 wire optical stops don't backfeed 5v to the CPU). There is also the JM6 set of pins by E1/E2 that locks the two instep if you should want dual Z or similar with a simple pin number reassignment in config.txt. Aby Diggrr - Smoothie
Hah, that will teach to me to respond so late in my day.. I get top quality toothed drive pulleys from RobotDigg. Nicely made from brass, not aluminum. 9mm width. link to pulleys Shipping isn't free, but you get them in a week, not a month.by Diggrr - Reprappers
I use two 608zz flanged bearings turned face to face, flanges to the outside. 8mm ID so I chop 8mm smooth rod for axles. It fits my 9mm belts just fine, plenty of room for 10mm as well. The diameter that the belt runs on is 22mm, and won't fit everyone's design, but I built the rest of the printer so it was easy for me to do. Yes, I use dual 9mm belts on my Y bed.by Diggrr - Reprappers
Unfortunately Moriquendi, I have a factory full of part numbers sharing space with my formula storage.by Diggrr - General
I use a knock-off silicone 200 watt bed heater, powered through an external mosfet board (it lowers the current the main-board carries despite being quite capable of it, Azteeg X5 GT) and powered by a 500 watt Mean Well psu that also powers the board. Though the wires had a decent silicone jacket as well an an impregnated weave on the outside, I chose to run it through silicone tubing, to work sby Diggrr - General
Measure Ohms on the lowest scale, it says 200 on my meter. Then you can plug in the number to an online calculator like . You can guess at voltage of 12 or 24 to get a reasonable wattage around 30-40 watts (which most rep rap heaters are). Edit: You need two numbers entered to hit calculate and get a result, the others can remain blank. Example: Say I measured 14.4 Ohms. If I plug in 12V to theby Diggrr - General
I get what you're saying Trakyan, the bushings on one side could even be the looser Igus bushings (they're slightly loose when not pressed into a specially sized carrier block). Then the carriage would follow one rail on bronze bushings, and the second rail would simply register the carriage in 3D space. I think the main problem comes from multi-part printing on a non-perfect surface (who has onby Diggrr - Mechanics
QuoteOhmarinus Did you mount the bushings with the rods flat on a table or did you mount the rods in the machine first and only then glued it? I also notice your bushings are longer than mine, maybe that makes them less bindy. I had the rods mounted securely to the axis plates on each end and on a flat surface, but not installed in the machine. You want them in their final position to make sureby Diggrr - Mechanics
I noticed some time ago, the original corexy epoxied the bushings to the carriage plate instead of trying to constrain them in a holder. It would seem smarter to let gravity do the perfect alignments (assuming the rods are perfectly parallel). I've also built an X axis trying this method, and it glides so smooth and fast, it's quite ridiculous. Soon I'll be getting back to that project. Edit: Hby Diggrr - Mechanics
Cool, I'll probably hit the shop later today then. My bed is constrained somewhat at the edges by the corner covers I made, and pieces of aluminum angle bolt to the horizontal extrusion's outside face and reach up over the plate to keep it from lifting on opposite side probes. It cannot move around or lift, but can be depressed to activate the current sensors I have. It triggers with a firm tapby Diggrr - General
I currently have an FSR setup on my non-heated Delta bed. It's an aluminum plate that rests on the FSR's (with cork pads), the sensors are built into the tops of 3 towers at the centers of my base extrusions, which also keeps the bed nicely level. Question: Does the board tuning work like the JohnSL board, in that it can "tune" or set zero at the current pressure sensed? If so, it sounds like nby Diggrr - General
I get that man, but surely there's a directory structure in Linux that you can write a file to, yes?, or does the web interface not play nice with that?by Diggrr - Smoothie
You're saving the files to SD directly from Slic3r? I made a directory on C: to save files to from slic3r, then use the web interface via browser to upload a file..perhaps the issue..by Diggrr - Smoothie
Lol, No Problem. Let me know how it goes for you!by Diggrr - General
Sure! Here's an exploded view made with spare parts. 2 F608ZZ bearings from VXB on eBay 1 8mm hard shafting from Zyltech also on eBay 1 40T-9mm pulley from RobotDigg 1 20T-9mm pulley from RobotDigg 1 GT2-160x9mm belt from RobotDigg 1 MK7-1.75 8mm ID extruder gear from RobotDigg Not shown are two 8mm spacers (washers) that go between the 40T pulley and each bearing, from the local hardwareby Diggrr - General
Lighter and compact aren't important to me really, I don't mount my extruders on the machine, but on a separate "tower" of 2020. I do the same on my delta. No loading added to the frame, and no resonance, even if it only manifests as an annoying hum while it's running. The gear ratio wasn't really important to me, I would have been just as happy with a 1:1. The goal was to decouple the motor viaby Diggrr - General
Not wanting to mess about in the other chaps post.. I think I've solved my main problems with gear reduced extruder drives. *not really a fan of gears in the first place, especially metal to plastic. *replacement parts are starting to show up online for the geared drives (aka: red flag). *no love for the MK7 with it's greater contact area on the filament. I made a transmission so to speak, thatby Diggrr - General
@TDD, my spool usually sits on rollers similar to yours, the PTFE intake normally curls around under the spool so the force is downward keeping the spool in place. The 300mm diameter spool wouldn't fit in my enclosure, so I had to rig a horizontal PVC pipe with printed bushings to center it, located under the machine. There's my rub (pun intended). The spool isn't on bearings. It spins easily enoby Diggrr - General
No argument that the spool feeder needs improving, but it's sufficient. A flick of the finger is all it takes to spin it. The PTFE runs to the spool, so the filament isn't dragging on anything. Perhaps my first and last large spool though, it's been a PITA from the start. I spent more than the bulk discount on drivers. Oy. Interesting info about the waves in the prints. That I do see sometimes.by Diggrr - General
@MKSA, I know integer is normal, I know too that it changes dynamically as the system moves, because the filament is not of constant diameter or density along it's length. And to be honest it's "over-sciensing", because it's really just globbing melted plastic in rows and stacks...but it annoys. Really I could skip entering the .45 altogether and it would not make a difference in the print. But iby Diggrr - General
Yep, sorted. No ringing allowed here.by Diggrr - Mechanics
For me, it wasn't the gear slipping on the filament, it was the motor losing steps against the weight of the much larger roll of filament. Two motors doubled the power to pull it, and it let me use even less tension on the idler(s), and it didn't require a gearbox to do it. The BMG does look more interesting to me than the QR. I still may build a NEMA23 extruder, and uncomplicate my setup thoughby Diggrr - General
QuoteMKSA What kind of hotend/filament (1.75mm) requires that much force ? Anyway, the key factor is the hobbed gear/idler. With a good one, it is possible to pull 40N using a geared Nema17 42mm. To push is an other story. You better have a well guided and short path between extruder and hotend. The MK7 hobbed gears quality can be shitty. So to put two bad extruders in series is a complex, heby Diggrr - General
My random thoughts, in no particular order: Springs are great on clothes pins, not so great on bidirectional drive belts that shift a weight. They allow the working portion of the belt to grow and retract...the opposite of precision. Want to reduce ghosting? Switch to a wider belt. Just as with a string instrument, it lowers the vibrating frequency to where it can be tuned out with firmware settby Diggrr - Mechanics
Copper reflects eddy currents, but I've had no trouble with the aluminum 'sinks. All my motors have them because they can get toasty in the enclosure on long prints despite the ~85% current setting. I've only seen missed steps in pictures online (I also braid my stepper wires, always, so that helps). I have been able to reduce the spring tension like you said. The nuts are about half of what I uby Diggrr - General
..it was the only way I could get TMC drivers to pull a 4 Kilo roll of PLA..now I just like it, even with new drivers. Dual hobbed MK7's made for 1.75mm filament only.by Diggrr - General
That is silicone vacuum tubing for automobiles. You can order it in many sizes on eBay. There is also the printer/kit version that you were seeking : Gulfcoast Roboticsby Diggrr - General
Build on a flat surface to check square and vertical from. Get a good square and check it's square before trusting it (I have 6, 2 that I can trust for more than lumber)...just sayin'.by Diggrr - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedc42 Surely all IDEX printers can do that? Of course, but firmware and slicer would have to work together, so it's found on proprietary systems only.by Diggrr - CoreXY Machines