Hello Tobben and others! A university on the East Coast U.S. is trying to build some hangprinters. Students at GMU's solar car team are trying to print a fairing for their car with one! I'm trying to lend them a hand, but the documentation on hangprinter.org seems to be focused on a closed-loop build. They're trying to avoid buying Mechaduinos or the like, and I can't seem to find information onby kenblu24 - Hangprinter
Yeah, kinda suspected this. My sheet was from amazon. it's a translucent auberge color. One side is glossy, the other matte. I'm printing on the matte, and I'm using a sheet of 3M adhesive to secure it to a glass sheet. I have to clean the bed every print with iso and crank the bed temperature to get a reliable adhesion. But I've seen a lot of reviews for gizmodork PEI, mentioning how it isn't tby kenblu24 - Printing
99% isopropyl alcohol did the trick. 70% wasn't enough. Now PLA sticks well at 200/80C. Thanks guys. For the intrepid googlers out there, matte pei works fine after a cleaning with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a kimwipe or any other towel that doesn't leave dust on the build plate.by kenblu24 - Printing
Does it print PLA decently? Any warping?by kenblu24 - Printing
Slowing down on the first layer fixed the problem, but I'm still not getting the kind of adhesion that everyone raves about. I still get warping, and a part just came loose while the bed was still heated.by kenblu24 - Printing
I'm afraid it isn't that simple. I can lay straight lines onto the bed. First layer is exactly 0.20mm thick, just as I've set my slicer. The bed is pretty level, at +- 0.03mm per corner. Z height is about as perfect as it gets. When turning corners however, the PLA doesn't stick. I'm actually wondering if I was sold something other than PEI, because I have no idea what could cause this.by kenblu24 - Printing
Heat up your printer, remove filament, and clean your nozzle. Move to the center of your bed. Move a few mm up from the bed, then move down until the nozzle barely touches the bed. You should be at Z = 0,00mm. From the pictures though it looks like underextrusionby kenblu24 - Printing
Here's my S3D profile. I'm using the matte side of the PEI.by kenblu24 - Printing
I got a PEI sheet and applied it to my glass build plate. At 70C, PLA isn't sticking to it. It just sort of peels right off, and printing circles and arcs is impossible as the extruded plastic just doesn't stick to the bed. I've wiped down the PEI with a lens wipe, so it should be clean. ' I've heard so many people laud PEI for not needing any additives, but for me it's performing worse than barby kenblu24 - Printing
Sorry, I forgot to mention that I'm using a 24v power supply. I've switched out the Z motors to these 2A motors. They're quite a lot quieter now, though not as quiet as the other drives. Running a million times cooler though. Completely forgot to check the current rating, I assumed they were all 2A. Can I still use the 0.4A motors for a bowden extruder, or are they basically useless with the sby kenblu24 - Duet
I've attached my config.by kenblu24 - Duet
Thanks for your help, David. The motors seem to be about the same temperature now. I've checked each motor to make sure that the wires terminate correctly, and the windings don't seem to be shorting to each other if that's what you meant (sorry, not experienced with electronics at all) I made sure that there was nothing conductive under the duet, and nothing seems to be touching the connectors oby kenblu24 - Duet
I've never used *anything* Trinamic before, and I can't figure out how to configure the steppers. I'm running a Prusa-style printer. Two Z steppers, one X and one Y. All motors are 1.8 degree. The Z axis of all things is giving me the most problems. I've set the current for Z to 1200ma. It's an 8mm pitch leadscrew, holding about 500mm of V-slot Aluminum 2020, and about 300g of extruder. Shouldnby kenblu24 - Duet
I set a print and forgot to turn on the fan on my E3D. Came back a minute later, the heatsink and extruder were hot to the touch, and the PTFE bowden tube melted inside the cold side and heatbreak. I was able to separate the heatbreak and cold side from the rest of the printer, now how do I clean out all that melted PLA and PTFE in the heatbreak and cold side? Someone suggested burning PLA for clby kenblu24 - General
I don't understand what the amperage for the fuses mean. How do I know which one to choose? How does it affect the safety of my board and why? I'm replacing the 11a 16v PTC fuse with something that can handle 24v, but I don't know what amperage fuse to go with.by kenblu24 - RAMPS Electronics
Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but based on the info here and elsewhere, going to 24v sounds like a hassle. A small boost of 1-2 volts seems like enough for me, but before I commit to buying a variable-output PSU, is there any problem with sending 14 volts through the standard 12v RAMPS setup with absolutely no changes to the printer? Everything in the printer (to my knowledge) is 12v. Iby kenblu24 - RAMPS Electronics
Frame is made of MDF. The slots are starting to wear away, I've put shards of failed prints in them to keep the whole thing sturdy. I'm redesigning it to be more reliable though, I'm not just taking the old design and making a plastic version. I made a similar post on reddit, people are suggesting I buy Simplify3D. I've started a Trello board for the project.by kenblu24 - General
I have a Q3D ThreeUp. Piece of garbage. I want to rebuilt it to have a plastic frame and be less crap. Problem is, that means the frame will be split into multiple parts. I've got little experience with 3D design, even 3D printers in general (though my printer has forced me to learn quite a bit). Am I welcome here? Should I ask the majority of my questions on here or on IRC? Anything I should knoby kenblu24 - General
I've got a Basalt bed on my Threeup. I would go for a standard glass or aluminum bed over Basalt though, it's really thick and heavy and heats up slowly. It works quite well as a flat surface though, probably retains/distributes heat quite well too.by kenblu24 - General
Shot in the dark, IF your extrusion is fine, your edges might be curling up. Can you post a new photo of the boat failing?by kenblu24 - Printing
I've got a bunch of small prints that just don't want to stick to the bed. The object I'm trying to print has a small footprint but brims and rafts don't help. At some point during the print, the whole thing just lifts off the bed and adheres itself to the nozzle. My printer is a Q3D Threeup with an E3D v6 .4mm nozzle. I'm printing with Hatchbox Silver PLA 1.75 (measured to be 1.7 ish) I've triedby kenblu24 - Printing