Here you can see the GND and VCC pins (EXP1 with pins 9 and 10): I assume you are using the board with 12v PSU connected. Is there a difference in the voltage you read on the GND and VCC pins of the Ramps board going to the LCD panel with USB connected and disconnected?by Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
Quoteetfrench I use Fusion 360 to generate 3d models and produce the gcode. My CNC router runs LinuxCNC. It's a hard combination to beat for the price. I agree, my colleague uses Fusion360 for all his CAM work now and apparently it's a very good piece of software to master, also for modelling and other CAD work.by Ohmarinus - General
QuoteCVRIV Machine is fully built and I nailed it getting to move smoothly. The spacers worked great. Took some time to get it done but it's together tight and moves smoothly. Cool, I don't know about the new machines. It seems every machine has it's own quirks. I have only done DIY machines so far. And I got an old 3D-printer, a Replicator 2x that had pretty bad bushings on it that I fixed andby Ohmarinus - General
QuoteCVRIV Sorry for the late reply everyone. This is the machine I bought: The rails are 0.5" rods. The bearing housings are the through hole type. The whole thing is made and aluminum and it's heavy. I know that the bearings are to be tight to eliminate play while cutting, but they bind to much. The movement isn't smooth at all. It uses NEMA17 steppers. Those bearings should definitely moveby Ohmarinus - General
Quoteguru_florida Heatbed: 15mins: 10 mins to 100degC, 15 to 110degC. Are you only heating to 100 maybe? I have a bottleworks heatbed and I think it added time....but much better than stock table was. I am heating to 110ºC as well I am not sure what heatbed I have, it's a cast iron bed it seems. Not even all over, but definitely good enough. Today I converted the SKR 1.4 to use this MOSFET: Nby Ohmarinus - General
Could it be the voltage regulator is damaged? When using USB it gets powered through USB and doesn't use the voltage regulator output. If the regulator is damaged it might show 5v without load but the voltage might drop when you out strain on it. I once had a voltage regulator work like that. Did you measure the voltage over the LCD power lines with and without USB plugged in?by Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
Quotethe_digital_dentist What kind of rail, what kind of bearings? I would assume LM8UU bearing blocks, but I think we need more info in order to give useful advice.by Ohmarinus - General
Could you tell us a little more about the machine, what movement platform does it use? Are the belts tensioned equally? Does the X-axis skew maybe? Can it be the frame is not squared? Or maybe one rod or extrusion is longer than the other? It is not supposed to be binding. Linear bearings are supposed to run smoothly.by Ohmarinus - General
You might be able to set a Z-max with an endstop at max and calculate maximum travel from there?by Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust Buy an external mosfet, or change ramps bed mosfet for something better than the low quality one provided. eg IRLB8743 IRLB3813 Very useful, I didn't know about these ones. Are they drop-in replacements? In that case I'll order a bunch to replace some on my old Ramps boardsby Ohmarinus - Reprappers
I saw a huge printer the other day that had a fixed bed and the whole corexy-system could move up and down. This seemed to be a good solution. Otherwise I suggest fixing the bed on each corner and using four lead screws driven by one big beefy nema23 motor. All screws are connected with belts. To make sure no rod goes out of alignment in relation to the other ones.by Ohmarinus - General
Quoteguru_florida Quote I have mounted heatsinks on all the stepper motors and probably have to lower the mA settings on the TMC2209's. I notice that with the standard setting of 800mA the motors get too hot. Yes, it's exponential too, so 500mA should probably half the heat which is what I am running at now. It seems to be good. I think bowden-drive is a good decision except I am not sure how welby Ohmarinus - General
Quoteekaggrat have you take n look at the makelangelo firmware by marginallyclever robots. It has a six axis robit built in and the firmware is very easy to change . github link I think that's because Dan (Royer) is developing a 6-axis robot arm called 'Sixi'.by Ohmarinus - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Quote3dprintnow Please check this image this sensor from 5 to 36 volt If it works at 5v then you do not need any resistors. You can just hook it up to your endstop connection. Just make sure you wire it correctly and also test if it works before you try to home the machine. If it doesn't work and it digs into your heated bed a lot can go wrong.by Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteguru_florida Congats! Coincidentally I just refurbished my Rep2X as well. BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo Trinamic TMC2209 stepper modules Dual Dragon Hotends E3D heaters/thermisters TFT 35 Touch screen BL Touch probe I also had a lot of previous upgrades I kept: Bottleworks magnetic glass printing base Bottleworks alumninum arms better extruder tensioners (not sure where I got them) Dragon hot-ends fby Ohmarinus - General
First you should try if the sensor works on 5 volts, sometimes they do. So I would say look for a schematic, get a power supply that supplies 5v and see if it triggers the sensor lighting up the LED on the top. Otherwise I suggest maybe getting an optocoupler or using a voltage divider. The tutorials that I've seen are very clear and I cannot make it any clearer:by Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
There's a lot of info about it on the web as you explained. What exactly are you having issues with? Are the tutorials not clear?by Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
Quotenuverian Thank you, I am glad you like those! If you end up building it or a derivative I would be glad to know how it turned out Regarding direct drive, just because of the typical weight/space reasons, plus I don't really print flexibles which I see as the only good reason to use a direct drive. Even so, if I ever am to convert keevo to a direct drive, I would first try out using a flex3dby Ohmarinus - CoreXY Machines
I bet it's just a standard polymer and they just don't want to share.by Ohmarinus - Reprappers
Wouldn't it be possible to make some kind of power buffer that, for a short while keeps the energy going like something with supercaps?by Ohmarinus - RAMPS Electronics
Quotenuverian QuoteOhmarinus Wow, looking good. I might, in time, rebuild my CoreXY design when I have the funds and the time. It looks like you got it down. Do you have more examples of the prints it makes? Thanks! Here are some recent prints I did for 1/72 wargaming scenery (thus quite small). These are printed rather fast, with 0.5 perimeter width (and nozzle) and 0.3 layer height. I am an imby Ohmarinus - CoreXY Machines
Do you have your Z-endstop plugged into the Z-min endstop position on the ramps board by any chance? It needs to be in the Z-max endstop position. Otherwise your config looks good as far as I can see.by Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
First of all, where is the info about this interesting machine? Understanding the configuration will also help understanding the setup of the machine. Your Z-axis moves the wrong way? Where are the endstops located? Endstop configuration is a Marlin issue and needs to be set correctly in the firmware I will move your post to the Marlin subforum and have edited the post so the links work. Also,by Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
QuotePointy Sorry to drag up and old thread, but I have a set of 3d printed parts for the Cherry Pi III, is someone just wants to bung me a fiver for postage. I think it is pretty much a complete set, including delta rods and springs. Regards, Les Sent you a PMby Ohmarinus - Delta Machines
QuoteDust It was 'sticky' for a month or so. but all the ones I listed are now resolved. You would only get them if your trying to compile older versions without the updated platformio.ini files Oh thanks for letting me know. I thought this was a new topic. I must've missed the posting date.by Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
The max temp that you can set will always be 15º lower than what you set as the max temp in Marlin. This is so that the printer doesn't trigger thermal runaway when it overshoots. Even if you disable thermal runaway, it will still use this 15º difference. If you want to print at 265º, set the maxtemp to 280º in Marlinby Ohmarinus - Printing
Great write, put it up as a stickyby Ohmarinus - Firmware - Marlin
Wow, looking good. I might, in time, rebuild my CoreXY design when I have the funds and the time. It looks like you got it down. Do you have more examples of the prints it makes?by Ohmarinus - CoreXY Machines
To be honest, I thought this was the only normal way to do it. I used to do it by hand in three steps. But now I realize the shops've been lying to me and I can just use the last step tap in a drill and get the same results. It's a great way to fix beams together. Also, if you want to make a 90º corner, you can drill a hole through the side of the other extrusion and just pull a bolt through.by Ohmarinus - Mechanics
Would it be a solution to source a 110v silicone heater locally and have someone fabricate a 300mm aluminium plate so you can build your own heated bed?by Ohmarinus - General