QuoteLarsK Concerning the topic - Moving the bed - I think it is an interesting idea and worth investigating. I think maybe it is more attractive for a CoreXY CNC mill. If you just want more extruders then I think you are better off sticking to the hotend moving CoreXY and just upping the overall quality of the build. I will probably give it a try if it turns out that the bed is considerably ligby cristian - CoreXY Machines
QuoteJ-Max Look at the investment. That mini printer works fine with acrylic, for its dimensions. I mean much better than a Prusa I3 acrylic, with its building volume more than 4 times larger ! But to have a first contact with 3D printing, with a plug and play machine around 150€, it's not a bad idea. You can keep it as a secondary printer or sell it easily. I mean you can't design a proper pby cristian - CoreXY Machines
QuoteJ-Max Well precision does not comes from your building material but from your guides alignment and the lower play they allow. The building material is very important to maintain precision over external stresses and time. Wood can warp over time because of prolonged deformations, humidity, ... MDF is less prone to that, but its stiffness is negligible with respect to metal, which is importaby cristian - CoreXY Machines
Indeed the size of the printer would be considerably bigger than the printing area. On the other hand, since I wanted to build a multi-extruder printer without Bowden, the weight of two extruders would be more than that of a small bed. So I suppose the coreXY system would be lighter, faster and cheaper if the bed was moved horizontally and the extruders vertically, instead of the opposite. But maby cristian - CoreXY Machines
I have been reading a little about linear guides ( a NSK tutorial for example, or a funny HIWIN video, any suggestion for further reading is very welcome) to understand better their pros and cons, the available types, etc. I am actually becoming a big fan of them (except for their price), thanks to the suggestions in this thread. I haven't made a choice yet, I am trying to understand if I would bby cristian - CoreXY Machines
For a printer with a small printing area (for example 100x100mm) and more than one extruder, in your opinion would it make sense to have a coreXY to move the small bed and have the (direct) extruders lifted only vertically?by cristian - CoreXY Machines
Thanks mike3, I am actually a happy owner of a smartrap (the original model) and I wanted a second printer a bit more solid even if not in the same budget. So I am considering a printer that, even if it is not fully in the reprap spirit, has a metal structure and no cantilever.by cristian - CoreXY Machines
Yes, I guess I have no other choice than builiding by trial and error unfortunately... If I ever manage to build the printer, I will post some reviews of the linear guides I buy. Thanks for your advices.by cristian - CoreXY Machines
I wish there were a milling machine at Lille makerspace... However I have been reading good reviews of the seller where I am going to get the profiles cut to length. 1.5" should be about 38 mm, so to be sure I should probably get 40x40mm profiles...by cristian - Extruded Aluminum Frames
The problem is that there are infinitely many options, as many as the sellers online times the experiences of other users. But the experience of other users may help me as well as lead me to bad choices. For example you have a lot of experience in mechanical engineering, that I guess helped you to build your own type of linear rail. If I try to build my own, maybe I will fail completely for someby cristian - CoreXY Machines
I am planning to build a coreXY machine (about which I have been polluting already the forum here and here) with a cubic aluminium frame and a printing volume of about 300x300x300mm, so that the frame will be between 500x500x500mm and 600x600x600mm. What would be the right diameter of the aluminium profiles for such a length, in your experience? I was thinking about 30x30mm: they have a moment oby cristian - Extruded Aluminum Frames
It is difficult to compare the two coreXY builds in the picture because of many, many differences. Besides this, bearings are not all the same, and a linear guide may also have some play if it is low quality. In both cases (linear guide or shafts) I would like some indication about the precision rating of what I buy, that I find quite hard to obtain for all the parts. It is relatively easy for shby cristian - CoreXY Machines
Further reference for formulas and online calculators: here, here, and here.by cristian - Developers
I have searched a little and the problems with linear guides are that they are generally expensive and often I cannot find information about their accuracy, in particular for used ones. I also wonder what happens to their straightness when they are fixed to aluminium profiles that are not perfectly straight.by cristian - CoreXY Machines
I am planning to build a machine based on coreXY that has a printable area of about 300x300mm with one extruder. I would like to be able to switch between direct feed and Bowden with one extruder, as well as to mount more than one extruder (up to four, with a Bowden setup of course) and still get at least 200x200mm as a printable area. I am still writing a tentative 3D model of the printer, but Iby cristian - CoreXY Machines
Many thanks, I will hopefully adopt this solution for the inner part of the coreXY if I manage to have access to a drill press for the holes in the support, provided that it is enough for the job. This is the best I can get at the local fablab anyway.by cristian - Extruded Aluminum Frames
That would be interesting for the X axis of the coreXY, although I have no direct access to a milling machine. How do you ensure that the diameter of the holes is correct and there is no play? And how do you fix the rods so that they do not slide through the holes?by cristian - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I am starting a new printer build (cubic frame with coreXY), and I would like to avoid plastic as much as possible in the critical parts of the structure, so I was wondering: what is the best way to fix smooth rods to the frame with metal parts? Online I found flanges (such as this one) and standings (for example this one). Are there other ways to properly fix smooth rods? Besides their differby cristian - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I also thought that a hotend cannot affect print quality, until I got a reliable one (thanks to Reg Pye). For me, a reliable hotend is one that does not clog even if you print 20°C higher than the recommended print temperature, nor if you print veeeery slowly or veeery fast, nor if you overextrude, nor if you print a first layer on a bed that is not flat at all, nor if you halve or double the hoby cristian - General
Infatti. Pensavo che la pagina wiki di comparazione degli hotend potesse essere una cosa del genere, e invece proprio non ha funzionato. Che cosa è andato storto?by cristian - Progetti e nuove idee
Se la lista fosse aggiornabile facilmente dai designer stessi, dovrebbe mantenersi aggiornata "da sola". Il problema è poi sempre filtrare spam, scam, etc...by cristian - Progetti e nuove idee
I guess you mean (600mm)^2 What about a big mirror? Too heavy?by cristian - General
Peccato, così è molto difficile orientarsi...by cristian - Progetti e nuove idee
Molto interessante. Sì sì proverò, nel caso peggiore dovrò sostituire il tubicino di ptfe, niente di grave in effetti. Prima dicevi che la "comparazione è roba vecchia". Non c'è più una pagina nel wiki (o altrove) che raccolga tutti i modelli di hotend? Ce ne saranno migliaia ormai immagino...by cristian - Progetti e nuove idee
Grazie mille per le info. Non pensavo che la carbonizzazione di peek e ptfe potesse avvenire in tempi "sensibili", in confronto alla vita della stampante. È anche vero che il mio uso non è frequentissimo, quindi forse nel mio caso dureranno secoli. Non ho tantissima simpatia per gli all metal, più che altro per tutti i problemi che ho letto sui forum. Non ne ho mai provato uno, ma siccome vorreiby cristian - Progetti e nuove idee
Come non detto, il modello J-Head ha bisogno di raffreddamento attivo nonostante il peek, e ho letto un sacco di problemi anche su quello (soprattutto sui cloni cinesi, se ben ricordo). Ho studiato troppo poco, evidentemente! Insomma il peek da solo non fa la differenza, evidentemente il design è fondamentale a prescindere dai materiali utilizzati. Tanto meglio, vuol dire che sono stato molto foby cristian - Progetti e nuove idee
Mea culpa, non avevo proprio pensato di cercare con "peek". E quando vidi l'immagine della comparazione degli hotend prima ancora di acquistare la mia stampante, nemmeno sapevo che il peek esistesse! Ora invece vedo che ce ne sono diversi. Il fatto è che ho letto centinaia di discussioni di gente che ha problemi con modelli di hotend apparentemente molto più diffusi, tutti con barriera termica iby cristian - Progetti e nuove idee
Di speciale ha che funziona a meraviglia! Poi non sapevo che l'idea non fosse nuova, dato che di hotend con la barriera in PEEK in giro non ne ho proprio visti. E mi chiedo il perché, visto che l'idea è veramente ottima!by cristian - Progetti e nuove idee
QuoteDownunder35m QuoteSrek QuoteDownunder35m Only use a full metal hotend, nothing with a teflon liner as it will block up. What hotend did you make that experience with? I print copperfill and broncefill with my Merlin hotends without problems and they have a Teflon inliner. I just used the information from the guys that make the stuff: http://colorfabb.com/copperfill If it works for you (and mby cristian - Printing
Ciao a tutti, bazzico sui forum reprap da un annetto ormai ma siccome vivo all'estero non mi ero praticamente mai avventurato nel forum italiano. Scopro ora questa sezioncina dedicata alle nuove idee, e ho pensato di rendervi partecipi di un modello di hotend (che non ho sviluppato io, ma questo simpatico signore australiano) che funziona veramente bene ed è ancora praticamente sconosciuto. Lby cristian - Progetti e nuove idee