Well, I think adjusting the spools did the job. They were fitted too tightly to the motor gears and that prevented them from rewinding properly in torque mode. As a result I wasn't able to get accurate data points for the autocalibration script. Now that I finally got it calibrated it seems to work perfectly. As I write, the printer is printing a vase. Currently at Z 380 mm and with almost flawlby atmark - Hangprinter
Ok, thanks Tobben. I'll look into your suggestions tomorrow. I don't think this has anything to do with Marlin&mechanical advance. I had same issues last time I tried the autocalibration with standard hp3. Now that you mention unwinding/winding the spools, I have to admit that two of the spools don't rewind them freely when in torque mode... We'll see. I'll figure out something for the D-liby atmark - Hangprinter
Hey Just the other day I upgraded my Hangprinter with a new mover that includes corner clamps with mechanical advance. Also I switched the anchor points. In the configuration.h I changed the mechanical advance setting from 1, 1, 1, 1 to 2, 2, 2, 2? Is this correct. I needed to change also the lines since the old ones weren't long enough. The A, B and C lines measure now 14m the D-line 6m. Thosby atmark - Hangprinter
@victorbarahona You should be able to fix the extruder by calibrating the esteps. I do it by extruding 100 mm filament and measuring how much filament goes into the extruder. There are formulas to calculate the esteps based on the the difference of those two measurements. I can check them later today About the Z difference. Have you measured the spool radius and put it into the config file? Thby atmark - Hangprinter
Hey I've been busy last year designing, building and testing the frame for Hangprinter. There are still issues to be solved, but eventually the frame will be ready for publishing. Up until that, I'd like to make a proposal for a new effector design. The concept builds on the tool changer idea of e3d. Although the tool changer isn't published yet, I wanted to think ahead how one could be fitted oby atmark - Hangprinter
The Precious Plastic project is indeed very good. I was already about to start building the shredder in few weeks, but then I saw a teaser about a new bigger version of it. So, I might wait until they publish it. Just before Christmas we went to see the plastic extrusion lab at our neighbor campus. The have already plenty of expertise in plastic recycling, which is warmly welcome once we get ourby atmark - Hangprinter
I agree, it's still a long road to go, but on the other hand I believe in HP's concept as it is very versatile. Due to the required space and steep learning curve it might not be the consumer printer, but more a workhorse for the prosumer or SME's. I see the HP as a hub in small local communities, where users can print products out of recycled plastics. And that's also in my opinion the only econby atmark - Hangprinter
I've had a mechanical issue with two motors which were attached too tightly to the spool cores. The friction prevented them from spinning back in torque mode. Check this if you can't find any configurational issues. @tobben I managed to get the calibration script working with the other option -S(something). Will try the default option again this week. Last week I finished my first "real" print.by atmark - Hangprinter
I just tried the auto-calibration script, but ran into a problem. The value the script outputs makes no sense. Every anchor value is zero. Total cost value is a 7 digit value with 6 decimals. Cost per sample is a 6 digit value with 6 decimals. So something must be wrong, I just don't know what. The data points seem to be ok. Do I have to change some values in the marlin config prior calibration?by atmark - Hangprinter
I could help with the documentation since I'll probably do one in any case for our university. Maybe we would need to discuss first how the documentation should be organized/maintained. Personally, I like the Dozuki style Prusa and e3d are documenting their products. Dozuki seems to have a free plan for open source projects, so that might fit well for our needs? I haven't read yet through the smaby atmark - Hangprinter
Yes, you might be right about the glitching connectors. Since I re-plugged it, the printer seems to run without errors. Thanks for the pause procedure, I'm trying it today!by atmark - Hangprinter
@VictorBarahona: I don't recall it exactly, but I think I had a similar issue while flashing the mechaduinos earlier this year. In my case the problem was, that I had the phases connected the wrong way. Can you post an image of all motors and their connections? @tobben & all: This week was a breakthrough. I finally got the first prints ready! First of all, I'd like to thank you Tobben for thby atmark - Hangprinter
Can someone give me a hint where to look for errors? I'm trying to put the Mechaduinos in torque mode, but only B-motor reacts to the G95 command. Since I can spin all the motor with G6 command, I'm a bit confused... According to the wiring diagram you have to hook some cables from the level shifter only to the B-motor, is that correct?by atmark - Hangprinter
The other day, I had a similar idea. If it would be possible somehow to bite into the line. Like to force it through two gears. Obviously that would deform the line and you would see the pattern in the print. And the line wouldn't last long. But then I thought about a belt drive with a smaller pinion attached to the stepper motor driving a bigger gear, like in this quick sketch. The line would bby atmark - Hangprinter
Thanks! Yes, I will include it. First I have to sort out few other things. Indeed, that was a thing I wanted to ask you, if the spool layout is fixed or if it can be altered. Great, if the spool layout can be rotated and translated. What about the distance from the spool to the line rollers? Obviously A, B and C distances must be same, but is it necessary to keep them at the given length? I'll tby atmark - Hangprinter
The concept seems to be very interesting and I don't see why it wouldn't work. The only thing I'm a bit concerned is if the stepper motors can handle mass of the spools. Do you have an idea how much weight it would be in total?by atmark - Hangprinter
Hi I've been designing and building a frame for the Hangprinter as it needs to be movable in my case. I need to set it up at different spots and I would like to be able to calibrate the frame in an easy manner. The design takes inspiration from Tobben's wooden frame, but adds more durability, sturdiness and adjustability. This includes the option to level the frame and print bed in relation to gby atmark - Hangprinter
I wouldn't recommend PVC pipes, because PVC is a fairly soft plastic. The pipes will most likely bend if you are planning to build a frame of reasonable size. In my opinion square aluminum beams are best suited, because of the weight-stiffness-ratio and the relative low price. Steel beams are bit cheaper, but then you'll have to deal with the weight and possible corrosion. Carbon fiber beams woulby atmark - Hangprinter
Thanks! Yep, the danger of people tripping over it was my main concern. This isn't the best solution in utilizing the given space, but you got to start somewhere What I'm also planning, is to have three adjustable cross bars for sturdiness and for accurate calibration. I will most likely put them as down as possible and I also play with the idea to use them as a frame for the print surface. Doby atmark - Hangprinter
In our lab we don't have a fixed place for the printer, so in the mean time I'll have to set it up at different places. To make my life bit easier I decided to take Torb's wooden frame design and make it from aluminum bars instead. I'm going to combine two 2 meter bars into one telescopic foot with adjustable pads. Screw three of them to the printer ceiling plate and you'll have a nice tripod. I'by atmark - Hangprinter
It's a bit difficult to take a shot at the lips, but the screenshot of the cross section view is pretty self explanatory, I think. The next iteration will not have them attached to the clamp. Instead I will design a kind of anchor plug, which will be a separate part. It's then also easier to print. Today as I was disassembling the clamp again I found out, that the bond will be solid even if youby atmark - Hangprinter
What do you think about this corner clamp design approach? I wanted to fasten the carbon fiber beam rock solid to the clamp, so I though to use a wedge inside the beam to press four lips against the inner wall. This seems to work pretty well and you'll need only two screws per clamp (one for each beam). At the moment this design weights around 33g, which is about 3x the original's weight. Buby atmark - Hangprinter
@dahah We should keep this in mind. I will also build the printer first and then come back to this upgrade. I've already talked to our lab staff about this option and about the place the printer will be set up at. It will be a prime spot Where also the public can observe it in action. So @tobben, I think you'll get some headlines later on this year.by atmark - Hangprinter
@tobben Thanks. Next week new pics. Got yesterday the carbon fibre beams I might have missed it while reading through the thread, but what was your reason to switch from screw fastening to zip ties for holding the mover together? Secondly, have you thought about having moving anchor points, which would be fixed on linear rails. In a manner that would allow to drive them up and down along the d-by atmark - Hangprinter
Hi folks I'm an industrial design student and fablab assistant at the Metropolia University of Applied Sciences in Helsinki. Currently I'm building the Hangprinter so we can quickly fabricate life size objects in our lab. I'm still waiting for couple of vitamins to arrive, but in the meantime I've already began to assemble the ceiling unit. You can have a look here I haven't made a decision abby atmark - Hangprinter
Hi I had a large print going on the other day, which I needed to print overnight. Fortunately I woke up and I was wondering why the printer isn't making any noise. The print had stopped after few hours leaving the still hot extruder on the print. The print itself was hot and badly melted. Several clocks in the house were resetted, so there must have been a short power outage. But it hadn't resetby atmark - Safety & Best Practices
Ok, I see. As I'm using the full metal e3d extruder it's propably safe to reduce the time. Will do some tests. Thanks againby atmark - Mendel90
Hey Haven't found yet a place to tweak this. After reaching bed and hotend temperature Marlin always waits 60 sec. before it begins to print. I my oppinion it's a unnecessarily long time to stabilize the temp. I think 5-15 sec. would be enough. In the config-file there seems to be no setting for this time. So where is it hiding? Has anyone an idea?by atmark - Mendel90
Thank you Nophead! The heater + and gnd were indeed swapped... Shame on meby atmark - Mendel90