Thank you, dekutree64. I think the issue might not be just simple friction between the arm components. It seems that the PLA is gradually deforming under the pressure of the locking nuts, which in turn reduces friction as the deformation lessens the pressure. It doesn't look like slip-stick is contributing to the problem, since the collapse appears remarkably smooth when observed through the cameby leadinglights - General
Is PETG substantially better than PLA+ when used in a friction-locked hinge joint? I’ve assembled a rig for photogrammetry and focus stacking to capture intricate 3D images of insects and other biological specimens. However, I’m facing an issue: the hinge joints are slipping under the camera's weight, which you can see in the attached photographs. I suspect that the PLA+ material of the arms isby leadinglights - General
The method you propose sounds good and I would like to hear how it works out. Since I first came across piezo bed leveling, I have experimented with various methods of utilizing a piezo sensor attached to the hotend. So far, I have not come across a method that I am completely satisfied with. I have tested mountings similar to those used on the PZ Probe, but have consistently encountered issues wby leadinglights - General
E3D has introduced a piezoelectric sensor for use on the Voron Stealthburner and other hotends. At first guess, it looks as though the piezoelectric element is designed for axial pressure. The Murata type piezoelectric disks used on almost everything in this thread are intended as sound transducers and are only about 40% as sensitive as axial specified elements would be - although still adequaby leadinglights - General
Hi Viktor, I might put a section on the wiki page about methods that have been mentioned in this and other forums. I did some quick trials on a pneumatic back pressure Z sensor back in 2016 but had fallen under the spell of piezoelectric disks so I didn't pursue it. Another method is similar to the scanning probes, such as eddy current and LiDAR, but using a physical contact probe - much like usby leadinglights - General
A bit of editing on Sensorless probes and Voron Tap (Neither of which I know as I haven't tried them) and some links added to the Wiki page . Mikeby leadinglights - General
Thank you, VDX, but I am surprised that nobody has any contributions, suggestions, criticisms, style critiques, or unrelated advertising. Not even the mandatory terminology Nazi with disparaging comments about the use of "Bed Leveling" instead of "tramming" has twitched a curtain. You could almost think the forum was moribund. Mikeby leadinglights - General
I have just put up a page on the RepRap Wiki and am looking for review, correction, or addition as normal for a Wiki. The page is at. This is similar to other pages in the Wiki and may need to be amalgamated, but there has been quite a lot of change since those were written This is not complete as I am still trying to come up with a concise and accurate description of several types of probes. Pby leadinglights - General
I am unable to get onto my RepRap Wiki account, even though I can get onto my normal RepRap account. Trying the "I forgot my password" does not seem to result in an email being sent to me - my email on the Wiki may be out of date. The significance is that, over the years, I have accumulated a lot of notes and drawings about bed leveling methods and probes and thought I might knock them into shapby leadinglights - Administration, Announcements, Policy
10 Amp is far too big for your 750W heater, particularly as it will use very much less than that once it is up to temperature. Assuming a 240 V supply, the current will be a little over 3A. A 5A slow-blow fuse should be O.K. Put the fuse in the live wire. I would also go for a bit more than 24 gauge wire, possibly 20 SWG. Mikeby leadinglights - Safety & Best Practices
A Wheatstone bridge is not useful for a normal (NTC) thermistor. In most cases, the thermistor is connected to a reference voltage on the controller through a series (bias) resistor with the other end of the thermistor being connected to ground. The value of the bias resistor is often the 25°C value of the thermistor. Somewhat better linearity can be obtained by having the bias resistor's valueby leadinglights - Safety & Best Practices
I think some malware has injected something into this thread Quotemoosix You mentioned that typical filament samples have an average error of less than 0.005 mm per 100 mm and 0.012 mm as the maximum error. This level of accuracy is very important for consistent 3D printing results. Manufacturers strive to minimize these errors, but there can still be variations due to factors such as material pby leadinglights - Tech-Talk
I have some experience with variations in the diameter of filaments. I can confirm that typically they have a mean error <0.005mm from 10 samples over 100mm and a further 10 over 1000mm. The maximum error was <0.012mm. Manufacturer and reel-to-reel error can be much worse with variation from 1.68 to 1.79mm A greater problem is that some of the filaments I tried were out of round - see theby leadinglights - Tech-Talk
My email address appears to have been changed from my current one to an obsolete one, As confirmation of change of email is presumably through email, how do I change it back to what it should be witout risking my account falling into a black hole? Mike.by leadinglights - Administration, Announcements, Policy
A few points at random. Quite a few contributors on this and other forums use the terms "Z probe" and "Endstop" more or less interchangeably. As the output signal of the sensor or probe is often fed into Zmin this is understandable. Sensors that sense the bed using some physical method, whether a switch contact, magnetic inductance, capacitance, optical or acoustic reflection, or whatever, needby leadinglights - Tech-Talk
From my possibly faulty memory of the article, I believe the method should work for any conductive nozzle and any conductive surface. However, I suspect that there are all kinds of problems in getting this to work with the sort of accuracy and predictability that is needed. Very roughly, the capacitance between the nozzle and the build surface conforms to the capacitance equation where the capacby leadinglights - General
Agreed with everything except the first line:- Almost all inkjet printers perform a little calibration dance when they are first switched on. Along with the function checks, there are usually several calibration checks such as total carriage run. A calibration check and adjustment will be done with every sheet of paper fed and replacement of ink cartridges or print heads will usually involve a caby leadinglights - General
I don't know of any precise machine of any reasonable complexity that has a reliable factory-one-time calibration - and I am not just talking about 3d printers. A 3D printer with a consistently flat print surface and a reasonable degree of thermal design can achieve and maintain fair accuracy when manually adjusted with a piece of paper or a feeler gauge, assuming fair accuracy of about 200µm, tby leadinglights - General
QuoteDemolux_D1 .... it can't be done without further preparation or modification. ................... Agreed, I haven't had any evidence that "Automatic Z Offset measurement" is anything but a marketing phrase. Only nozzle contact methods can obtain the Z position and also map the build surface, though few nozzle contact solutions are without problems - Duet3D's Smart effector is the closest tby leadinglights - General
I am looking for information on how any non-contact ABL Z probes automatically determine the Z offset. I have seen many advertisements and reviews stating or implying that a probe or a printer sets the Z offset between the nozzle and the sensor without the user having to measure it, but little about how this is done. To be clear, I only need information on the automatic determination of the Z ofby leadinglights - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist ........................................ The stacked potato chip Z surface is more likely caused by using a geared extruder with two drive gears. See Damn, having only received a dual-gear extruder today to replace a failing 10-year-old home-printed unit I now have a woodgrain effect to look forward to. CHEE!! It's not that my prints have never had faults - some haveby leadinglights - CoreXY Machines
Thank you dc42. As I am trying cheap clones for the moment I have ignored the clones of the Bondtech BMG as there are many bad reports. Clones of the Titan as well as the Redex seem well received. Hell, if I am going to be lazy, I may as well be cheap as well. Mikeby leadinglights - General
It is a difficult question to give a definitive answer to as too many variables come into where the best place for any PTFE is. The most commonly used solution is to have the PTFE end well before the cold end, giving an "all metal" path. A low friction path is obviously the ideal, but the area where semi-molten plastic is being moved back and forth with retraction and with feed. The plastic canby leadinglights - Delta Machines
Hi Rip. I have been looking at your Schnekenstruder for a while now, possibly intending to see what I could do with the design. Having said that, I am intent on, at least temporarily, pursuing my new philosophy of sloth, apathy, and the sofa. To that end I have sent to Amazon for a BZ 3D Titan and a Redex Ender 3 extruder: Maybe I will get into the whole "Why make when you and buy?" vibe. Mikeby leadinglights - General
I need to replace the ungeared Bowden extruder on my Delta printer and am looking for recommendations. As I take pleasure in making as many parts for my printers as physically possible, commercially available extruders are not something I know about, so any recommendations are gratefully received. The existing extruder has been in regular use since I printed it about 10 years ago. The only proby leadinglights - General
If the body of the effector is metal then the water path you show should be good. I don't think a plastic 3D printer effector would be any good though - if that is what you mean by 3D printed. In general, the thinner and lighter the stainless steel of the heat-break is the less cooling the cold-end has to do. Obviously, the heat -break has to mechanically support the hot-end so it can't be too tby leadinglights - Delta Machines
The higher above room temperature you run your enclosure the worse air cooling becomes. I think water cooling is needed for anything above 40ºC. You could form a copper water tube to fit exactly where you show your heat pipes. Thin-walled K&R copper or brass tube can be formed by filling it tightly with fine silver sand, crimping the ends, annealing to red heat then bending or hammering to sby leadinglights - Delta Machines
While very elegant, the heat transferred from the hot end doesn't justify heat pipes - which will just add mass, time and expense. For evidence, I can vouch for the water-cooled cold-ends shown here: A bit of testing at also shows an even smaller working water-cooled cold-end from Zatsitby leadinglights - Delta Machines
While waiting for parts and/or inspiration that will solve the many problems on my printer rebuild I have segued back into this project which I set aside many months ago. The problem at that time was that, despite much reading and the most careful selection of components, the results I got were very disappointing. The main problem seemed to be that the pictures lacked both the resolution and theby leadinglights - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
Usually called rod end bearings although the names rose bearing, rose joint, ball end joint or spherical plain bearing are all used. There are a lot of variation in construction, some with a hole in the bearing, some with a stud sticking out. I like the plastic rod end bearings from IGUS as they have a long service life with minimal maintenance. Mikeby leadinglights - Delta Machines