thinking even with new conns your still gonna have the same issue "isolating the heat in the heater block" the connectors will/are acting as the heatsinks with the current system. I be tempted to use an hybrid setup of e3d heat break and peek then see how small i can get it. and dont rely on ambient room temps for cooling just aint gonna happen PID gonna work that heater and heat just gonna climby jinx - General
the mk3 alu 213x213 mm hereby jinx - General
QuoteThen came the Lite6. My feeling is that they build it as a drop in replacement of the E3Dv6: same size and so, so all existing design of extruders can use it the E3D team came up with the V6 lite to counteract the influx of clones on the market, and to give us budget builders/PLA users an affordable option for a genuine e3d hotend. FMA what was the test print ? was there a lot of retractby jinx - General
QuoteClif I seem to get good reading with type 1, now that you got my interest do you have and facts that you would like to share. Can you explain the Difference and why you choose to use type 11 for your selection with the same 100k thermister first fact would be marlin calls for either 11 or 13 for the therm you described.by jinx - General
"I am not sold on that tiny heat-sink fan" have a little faith those 30 mm fans do just fine.by jinx - Reprappers
Quotefrank As per @Jinx, you need to assemble the hotend while it is hot. I don't think it needs to be at 280C though... I just do it at normal printing temperature. the 280C came from the notion, had to tighten up some degrees above what you gonna use the hotend at, so if you at 260 with abs 280 doesnt seem to bad you mind if I ever quote those four steps you explained it so much better thanby jinx - Reprappers
why not just use the RAMPS fan adapter, a guide hereby jinx - General
I no idea but you selected the right gcode flavour in machine settingby jinx - General
Not every day I get to print on an Xwing,,, A test for the larger one to come wanted to see if the thermoplastic sheet or 3M distorted/dulled the image or colour in any way " its all fine bar the size " see how that holds up to the heat, want be a problem if you still use a cold bed but the days of single colour, bland print surface is over!. think it may just do for a cold bed, onby jinx - General
when you installed the nozzle you raise the the temp to 280C there abouts? clear that crap of the top, while it cold have it where the heatbreak and the nozzle got about 5 mm from the block then heat up too 280 then wrench the nozzle while holding the heater block " WITH A SPANNER". though it appears the nozzle got an angle to it so the thread may have gone bad!. Quotedlc I was warneby jinx - Reprappers
you got it installed 6911? hows it working, Quotetrev Just received mine i have uploaded some pics on thinyverse and with 3d model and bracket to follow THC-01 you up and running yet?by jinx - General
Quotetrev Just received mine i have uploaded some pics on thinyverse and with 3d model and bracket to follow installed yet?by jinx - General
Quotesiggi66 Maybe something like THIS works for you? Just an example for inspiration smiling smiley thanks for that, I do think between you and origamib we have a plan for graphic transfer.by jinx - General
Quoteorigamib I use water transfer sheets from Amazon. You just print on them from your normal inkjet printer and then spray them with clear lacquer to stop the ink running. Cut it out, pop it in water and then slip away from the backing on to your desired surface. seal again with lacquer to keep it in place. 3-5 coats of lacquer makes a really strong surface. If this was your print surface I wouby jinx - General
cant really speak on the mks gen 1.4. thou am testing the gen l 1.0 nice small board, my thinking with the rumba its close to the price of a mks gen1.4 but has the ability to run a 3 extruders which is about the only board able to run a diamond hotend without the need to for and extension driver, 4 thermistors " heat chamber monitor , has for two pwm fan output for just an all round niceby jinx - General
Quotechroma I understand when I change the board the the existing LCD screen will not be compatible so I need to know if this screen and scroll wheel will work "plug and play." I feel stupid for asking this question as I'm usually super resourceful but as I'm new to this type of compatibility checking and don't know what web resource to use to do this kind of work If this screen will not work, whby jinx - General
QuoteAndorNot Jinx thanks for the review of the printer build plate. its been/ongoing pleasure, been a real eye opener, "I thought these print surfaces was just a rich man gimmick!" random cubes over the week belting first surface "well look closer at the left pic, but that was my failure rather than the surface" I just wouldn't get that repeatability with gluestick or Ktype first time everyby jinx - General
QuoteOrigamib Preferably you would want to put it directly to the plastic and then apply adhesive. Have you considered water transfers? I use them for printed stuff all the time. thats sounds like a belting plan " like the old airfix graphs or those temporary tats." googling right now thou am faced with a wall of hydro dipping at the mo. If you got a link too an how to make custom graphicby jinx - General
@scotty you compared cura and slic3r , cura does vases rather well and its only a tick of a box and slice. been a while since i last used slic3r for vasesby jinx - General
see slicer tab click configuration see the general extruder setting: under that spiralise contours fingers cross that do it...by jinx - General
what about slice the model with cura hit the expert TAB open expect setting, see black magic on the right side spiralize the outer contour check the box and click ok. then export/import the file into repetier host.... you still need to configure cura to your printer!. apart from that am no help hope you find an easier way.by jinx - General
a spool holder! how big is itby jinx - General
QuoteBob I wonder if the MOSFET is playing up because sometimes the light comes on like it heating up but does nothing. got a multimeter? take a voltage reading at the terminalsby jinx - General
QuoteAndorNot @ jinx, maybe you could print your own personalised surface with paper or another material and stick it to the back of my print bed material and then stick a 3m double sided adhesive to this, also available from my website in 8 inch and 12 inch. that aint how I imagined it work a paper print attached to glue side would/possible look crap and distorted and loose the transparency as aby jinx - General
QuoteDust //=========================================================================== //============================= Getting Started ============================= //=========================================================================== /** * Here are some standard links for getting your machine calibrated: * * * * * * * * */ belting list that is , wish the admins could stick thaby jinx - General
Well I just about completed my review with PLA rebel review I've not had a PLA print fail once out the 10 or so prints if you looking for at remote printing and need a reliable surface this is it, if your print fail it want be because adhesion to the bed. and thanks to Andrew and the team for the opportunity to review this build plateby jinx - General
am curious just how much current would a Mk3 aluminum bed draw at 24Vby jinx - General