I have an Anet A8, running Marlin 1.1.8 on a stock A8 controller with a custom direct extruder on an E3Dv6 hotend, custom part cooler blower. Whew. Normally this is a solid performer, but I just cannot get silk PLA to print for more than about an hour without "kinda" jamming. I say "kinda" because all I have to do is wait for the hot end to cool to room temp, then fire it back up and I can moveby dlc60 - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist I've done it a few times. Keep the whole thing vertical, and spin the nut up to the end of the screw, and try to keep it under control so you can take the balls out one by one. I used antimagnetic stainless steel tweezers to grab the balls. Keep a jar of degreaser handy to drop the balls into as you retrieve them. Putting them back is always harder than getting them oby dlc60 - Reprappers
The problem has gotten progressively worse, I don't think that the Z layer is coming back correctly on a Z-hop. Prints that have lots of hops have gaps appearing, weakening them. When running "vase mode" with no Z-hops I can see layer variations that are semi-repetitive. I think that the bearing in the drive screw is degenerating. Fortunately I have found a replacement "bearing" for the 8mmIDby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteetfrench One of the axes on my delta started clicking occasionally. It turned out to be a disintegrated bearing on an idler pulley. Yup, I have seen that. A cheap 608ZZ bearing on my Y-axis belt did that. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
I do not mean to be snarky, but why not just find the actual Z height and set it in firmware? Call me paranoid, but I don't trust the EEPROM settings to set my printers up. DLCby dlc60 - Printing
Well, you've changed everything but the wires, and the power supply. Check to see that you are getting the voltage (12 or 24V) that you should be at your controller board. Low voltage will cause a stepper to be "weak" and may cause your issue. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Did you change any wires? Those are the classic symptoms of a miswired stepper. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist I wouldn't tear anything down- I think that it's a normal sound based on the motion. Inside each nut there are a bunch of balls in a tube that runs from the top of the nut to the bottom. As the screw moves the balls recirculate through the tube. There is some extra space in there to allow the balls to move freely without scraping on each other too much. When you quicby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist When you do lift on retract the Z axis reverses direction very quickly...Is it the sound of the balls banging into each other inside the nuts? Hmm, I suppose that it could be that. It did not do this before, so I suppose that I am looking at a "bearing cleaning" and oiling job. Which is a drag, because it is basically a complete tear-down of the Z-axis mechanics and anby dlc60 - Reprappers
I have a RepRap Cartesian printer that is "old school". I built it from a friend's design, and have upgraded many parts. The X-axis moves on a rails whose gantry moves on the Y-axis rails and the Z axis is three ball-screws, two of which are paired with steel rods and whose ball-screws rest in bearings on the bottom and are "free" at the top. The third screw is the driver and is attached to aby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotefurkanbcr Hi , im using mks base v1.6 and mks tft v1.0 on my prusa clon. when im printing sometimes extruder skipping steps and my print is failling. i just did a test on my printer and try to print a vase with %25 scale 0.25 mm layer hight 0.4 mm nozzle and 235 C with abs. (with my PLA test , its worst).My printer stop at %75 of print and didt go again . after then that i restart the prinby dlc60 - Printing
Quotejdebuhr Thanks.. it is interesting as I bought the E3d lite6 and while I have not installed the directions have the PTFE go all the way to the nozzle. So my cheap Chinese setup is similar and I am able to print. I might get a better heat break where the PTFE will only go to the top. I have direct setup currently with the big PTFE. There are so many different nozzle/hot end styles is any onby dlc60 - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Cut a piece of plastic tubing...? Print washers...? Punch holes in thin plastic and trim with scissors...? The bearings in those little pulleys are so tiny that they won't last very long under belt tension. It's better to stack flanged bearings to make pulleys. F625zz bearings can be used to make good, long life pulleys for 6 mm belt. F608zz bearings can be stackedby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Ball Screws? Those have such high resolutions that "high speed" and "ball screw" are rarely used in the same sentence. That sounds really expensive. DLCby dlc60 - Delta Machines
If the same corner always lifts off of the bed then your bed is not flat. Correct that first. I print a variety of PETG brands and all of them stick to hair-sprayed glass plates hard enough to pull glass off the bed unless I let it cool off (and hear a series of alarming cracks as the part separates!) PETG's differ as to plate temperatures, but around 75 seems universally acceptable. The otherby dlc60 - Printing
Quotejdebuhr So the PTFE is not required? I see it is shown with the e3d V6 and e3d lite6. I need to adapt either to fit. Next piece for me will be to replace the frame. The printer I have is a reprapguru purchased for me as a gift from my wife.. apparently she got it cheaper than what I have seen them listed for. I know the acrylic is not the best, but many of the parts seem good. If I can getby dlc60 - Printing
Quotepanas78 The build is new in a lot of areas. New motherboard New stepper drivers New stepper motors on XY and after all that a new hotend The problem appeared when i changed the hotend. I am more confident that the problem is some kind of heat creep as i again finished another 2 hours print by leaving the enclosure open and have an ambient temperature of 20c. Today i will revert back to thby dlc60 - Printing
Be sure to use the newest Arduino compiler/IDE otherwise lots of weird library errors are likely to occur. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
First problem that I see is that you have your steps/unit wrong. The A4988 can do up to 16 microsteps, you have yours set to 64 microsteps, so that will be a problem with speed and scaling. Your slicer will typically control how fast you move the head around, so check your speeds set up in your slicer. DLCby dlc60 - Delta Machines
Does your wall have thickness? S3D may be calling this a solid object if it is only a surface without a wall thickness. Not enough information to say for certain what is happening. DLCby dlc60 - General
Good points. There are lots of suggestions out there to print PETG, and they are mutually exclusive. Some say, no fan, some say 100% part fan. Some say drop the temperature, some say run it near the high end. I have been experimenting all over the board to see what my system likes. Speed seems to be a big deal, retraction seems to be a very big deal. Need to retract more and faster helps, wiby dlc60 - Printing
Quotefisher I started the thread because i thought you might have something constructive to say about it, clearly that was a mistake. I have read a lot of material on the forum that has informed my decision making along the way. I would be genuinely interested what the 'same mistakes' are that you think i have made, but it seems your more comfortable making vaguely personal negative comments thanby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quotehtrabbit it did not fault, the Cura slicer issued a T0 S0 in the gcode. it decided that it did not need T0 anymore and shut the heater off. 1 heater and 2 extruders has always been a problem for these slicers. I just need a way to catch it. in no way did the Duet fail, it did what it was told. I just need it to react differently, I need it to pause rather than keep going without extrusionby dlc60 - Duet
Did you set up your configuration.h file with the new install? If not, do a setting-by-setting compare with your old firmware and 1.1.9 and move your settings over. Make sure your stepper drivers microstepping matches firmware settings. Make sure you have 1.1.9BF, there are issues reported with the "normal" 1.1.9. DLCby dlc60 - General
Hey all, I normally print my PETG as solid parts, but lately I have been making eNable arms with PETG and see this nasty spidery stuff and massive goo build-up on my nozzle. I am printing such that the nozzle NEVER crosses the open space, but stays on the rims. Even where the head does cross open space because there are curves in the sides, there is no stringing. Can anyone tell me where thisby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteEEOVERKILL Quotedlc60 QuoteCVRIV Oh god. I'm so upset. 10 hours of printing and the parts are severely warped. I can't use these. What a waste. I have my print bed set to 65. Do you think I should raise the temp or just use PVA glue to fix this problem? I need to modify these parts to be thinner. What are you printing? Warps mean you aren't getting the first layer stuck. Your pics don'tby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteCVRIV Oh god. I'm so upset. 10 hours of printing and the parts are severely warped. I can't use these. What a waste. I have my print bed set to 65. Do you think I should raise the temp or just use PVA glue to fix this problem? I need to modify these parts to be thinner. You must have printed a lot of parts to take 10 hours, those two don't look like more than about 3... There is a lesson,by dlc60 - Printing
QuoteEEOVERKILL Ahhhh I'm still tweaking. Im getting closer. I dialed down the esteps to 92 from the default 96. The older version of marlin I was using had a default of 92.6. I have the extrusion multiplier at 0.8. The lines are thin so I going to bring the multiplier back to 1 and see what happens. Use a ruler to measure how far a line on your filament moves for 10mm or 20mm of extrusion and/orby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteEEOVERKILL The streaks im referring to are as wide as the holes. The raised line looks to be some squeeze out yes. The streaks are shallower than the other areas. Thats what im wondering about. It's not just inside the print. I run into this all the time when I first set up a new print head and new filament. Sometimes it has to do with the firmware settings for steps/unit in the extruder.by dlc60 - Printing
Quotejdebuhr Quotedlc60 The thing is, you need to have your Z end stop right and the bed MUST be flat for anything to print reliably. DLC Yes, I have definitely found that out.. I check bed level first then print. I have been reading about the auto level stuff, just not purchased anything yet. I do have a glass heated bed. I was also just given a Mini RAMBo 1.3 and a Full Graphic Smart Contby dlc60 - General