Even though it works with other slicers fine ?by mr.sneezy - Slic3r
Try increasing the bridging flow ratio value, it did help in my case. Not sure why it would but...by mr.sneezy - Slic3r
I notice that on my test boxes today that the top solid layers have a few places with gaps between filling passes across the top and the layer below it (where I can see it). The bottom solid layer seem like they are about right during printing or even slightly over extruded. So not sure what I could change to fix the top ?by mr.sneezy - Slic3r
Since posting the question I changed the Bridging flow ratio in Advanced back to default of 1 and it seems to have corrected the problem. I had it on 0.9 to create tighter bridges previously, but the result seems to have also changed the length of the bridge unexpectedly... Martin ------------- I'm trying to replace Cura (the Creatbot custom version of it) with Slic3r software, because the fanby mr.sneezy - Slic3r
That looks like the data between the Melzi and the LCD is being corrupted and you are getting pixels displayed in the wrong positions. Does it look the same (I mean really identical) every time you start the machine, or does the corruption vary ? Martinby mr.sneezy - Sanguino(lolu)
Quotemarkotime Sooooo, if some kind sould could take my hand and guide me through whatever I have to do to make it work, I'd be very grateful. Now, it's only a 40.00 board, but I'd like to add a smart panel to it, which ain't gonna happen until I sort out the mismatch or perhaps my misconceptions. THanks to all! My Melzi V2 board fan and bed worked (or what I believe is a V2 from Geeetech anywby mr.sneezy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I just updated the firmware on the Melzi 2.0 to Marlin 1.0.3 Dev. With this version there is no need to disable any functions to save code space. With the Reprap Discount Full Graphic LCD option enabled and the SD card stuff enabled the file size was well under 128k at about 119K. Martinby mr.sneezy - Sanguino(lolu)
Marlin is a bit sad on documentation, I guess rapid development pace has caused that. I dabble as a user of other Open Source firmware as well, like the Arduino based Arducopter and Arduplane flight controller systems, and they have awesome documentation. Every single configurable parameter is documented in the Wiki or a guide, and there are hundreds of them that can be changed. Makes me reallyby mr.sneezy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Macsoft, did you ever find information on Menu>Tune> Flow and the Flow 0 items ? Thanks, Martinby mr.sneezy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I don't know the name of the dual hotend, it's what was supplied with the Ultimaker style machine, which runs Marlin firmware. I'm only using one side at the moment, given the trouble I'm having I've not had time to setup the other side yet. Here's an image though of the whole hotend. When I've had a block up, I have pulled out a 15mm long 3mm diameter plug of 1.75mm filament from the hotend...by mr.sneezy - General
Thanks Marinus. Maybe others here have also got experiences on converting extruder's,and could confirm that we'd be better off with a new extruder and hotend than trying to reuse the old one ? Baring that I'll see if the vendor has a 1.75mm option, or else convert back to 3mm and see how it goes with that filament. The original conversion to 1.75mm was to be filament compatible with other locaby mr.sneezy - General
I have a new 3D printer at work that's based on Ultimaker, and was setup for 3mm filament originally. I've converted the feeder drive for 1.75mm filament (ABS), and the main bowden line has been changed to a tube with 2mm ID (approx) to suit the smaller diameter filament. What has not been changed is the original PTFE tube inside the extruder, it's still 3mm right from the entry on the extruder bby mr.sneezy - General
I had the FTDI USB 'FTDIgate' knock out the serial chip on my Prusa i3 fitted with a Melzi 2.0 board. The board was from DX.com and has a clone FTDI USB-to-serial chip. I thought I needed to buy a new board or replace the chip until I stumbled on the EEVBlog info. If anyone suspects they had their clone FTDI chip bricked by the October 2014 Windows 7 driver update then the fastest way to confirmby mr.sneezy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehsbontop Would this adapter work? The Sanguinololu header has four extra pins that the Melzi doesn't. Two are just 12V power and ground, but IIRC two are data lines. It might work though IF those two lines are not used in this case. Need a schematic or a much better image showing the tracks. Or just buy one and try it, the extra four header contacts will just sit there unconnected.by mr.sneezy - Sanguino(lolu)
Quoteunlimitedbacon I submitted an issue on the Marlin GitHub page. Hey thanks, I see there was some suggestions there that would reduce code size, and I've asked a question about which one makes sense to do first to get under 128K. It's not hard to comment out a few lines of unused code, and worth noting that here for the next guy to make life easier. I'll see if we get a good answer or two anby mr.sneezy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
That's for confirming that for VIKI display. I wonder if the Marlin Dev's know how close the code size is too 128K with the LCD added (as in a bit over 128K actually) ? They may be able to do a bit of code size optimisation and get it well under, so the 128K reprap boards are not obsoleted so quickly. Where do the Dev's go to get user feedback ? Thanks, Martinby mr.sneezy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Quotepsneddon Blue Ice Thanks again. I'll check mine over once I receive it in the mail. I received my MK2B heated bed and hooked up the wires to it and measured the resistance and I'm getting 2.6 ohms. Most of the information I've read about this heated bed states that the resistance should be 1.2 to 1.3 ohms. Is this correct? I have the negative lead hooked to pad #1 and the positive lead hoby mr.sneezy - Prusa i3 and variants
Just note to help anyone trying to find out if a RepRap Discount Full Graphic LCD ( ) can definitely be used on a Melzi 2.0 running Marlin. I had success today using a DIY adapter board found here on Thingiverse and credit should go to Dave for posting up his work there. For whatever reason the information was hard to come by about any possible compatibility between this display and Melzi boaby mr.sneezy - Sanguino(lolu)
I checked the before and after compiled size of Marlin development version with inclusion of the //#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER option. Without = 75,624 bytes With = 129,046 bytes Wow that's a LOT of extra bytes for the smart controller, near double.... Can anyone else verify the code increase when //#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER is uncommentedby mr.sneezy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Interesting, and disturbing, I just hit the "Sketch too big" error too after adding Repraps Discount Graphic Smart LCD support and I DO already have a Atmega1284P with 128k code space ! I have a Melzi 2.0 with Atmega1284P MCU, all I've done is to add SD and graphic LCD support, and the compiled code is 22 bytes over 128K. I only bought this board a couple of months ago... Martinby mr.sneezy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Yes maybe. Perhaps if a couple of other Melzi or Melzi 2.0 users here could tell me if they have a 10 pin EXT connector on the board or a 14 pin, it would clarify it enough. Martinby mr.sneezy - General
QuoteBratan I finally added LCD smart controller (have been printing from PC all this time). I'm a little confused tho, I get no power to the ATMegal when using just PSU. If connect USB everything works. RAMPS doesn't power ATMega? I have Melzi 2.0 not RAMPS, but I suspect there may be a 5V supply link you need to fit some place on the RAMPS board.by mr.sneezy - Prusa i3 and variants
Today I found some information I'd been searching for regarding the many variations of LCD displays for Repraps systems. I'd assumed that the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller clone I have used 4bit or 8bit parallel data transfer like the Panelolu to drive the LCD, but a friend today noticed that's not the case on the schematic for that one in the Reprap Wiki. It uses a serial mode I nby mr.sneezy - Controllers
Guys, It appears that this vendor sells a HE3D Melzi version of the common 128x64 RAMPS discount smart controller that's been modified for Melzi boards (which don't have the I/O connections of RAMPS and even the Sanginololu has). I'm not sure about this, but I think it may have either an SPI LCD or a IIC I/O expander chip on board. Has anyone seen a schematic for this version because I'd likeby mr.sneezy - Controllers
Dave3D, can you tell us which aluminium bed you bought ? If it's got a higher than expected heater resistance it may be useful to know before buying one if somebody is using 12V primary power (or 13.8V in my case).by mr.sneezy - Reprappers
OK, can do that. And if I'm wrong somebody corrects that I guess ?by mr.sneezy - General
I'm running that board you have, just double checked to see if it runs the 44pin Atmega1284p MCU, and yes it does. My board has the latest development version of Marlin on it and it's running fine. I select GEN7@16Mhz as my Arduino board type in the Arduino IDE, in the configuration.h I picked motherboard type 'board_melzi'. I used I think the 1.05.r2 Arduino IDE initially but I'm now using theby mr.sneezy - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I am still looking to fit a 128x64 smart LCD on the printer, but found that it's not so easy on a Melzi board as it does not have the same external I/O available as RAMPS and Sanguinololu (from which Melzi was based). I bought a RAMPS style smart LCD but it looks like I have to change it or cobble an I2C I/O expander module in between to drive all the required lines. Frankly after so much researby mr.sneezy - Reprappers
Hey what is the etiquette in getting information changed in a RepRap Wiki page, how do edits get made ? The reason I ask is that I found information on the Panelolu Wiki entry half way down that indicates that Panelolu LCD (and derivatives) should be Melzi compatible because Melzi is based on Sanginololu. The trouble is (after much time cross checking) that the Melzi external connection header dby mr.sneezy - General
MK3 3mm aluminium heatbed, are any of you guys using one on the Prusa, and have and opinion of the performance ? I used a FLIR IR camera to confirm that the MK2B and glass plate bed has a 10 degree C roll off at the edges, mainly the last 30mm. This is no big deal for smaller prints, but when using the whole width in ABS it is an issue. Using a 'brim' helps a LOT but I wonder if I might be bettby mr.sneezy - Prusa i3 and variants