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Ultimachine is becoming too expensive now and the import charges are outrageous. We purchased a spool of black ABS from voxul factory and I'm very happy with the performance.
by
aplavins
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
I can switch back and forth no problem, ever.
Just make sure you use the higher of the two melting point until all traces of the previous plastic are gone.
by
aplavins
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General
Not an expert in that department but someone told me that it has something to do with the way it sends serial commands over USB.
by
aplavins
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Controllers
Haven't done an SD print yet, I found the problem though. It was my laptop I was printing from, I switched from my new HP laptop to an old dell and no more comm errors.
I'm just finalizing my automated start gcode, then I'll be able to print from SD unattended.
by
aplavins
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Controllers
I get the same problems when the humidity is high. I ended up putting an air conditioner in the room my machine is. A dehumidifier might work too.
by
aplavins
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Printing
Next meeting is September 24th, come check out the NEW Site 3 Prusa!
Yes that's right, Site 3 now has a reprap of it's own. Now if you want a 3D printer you can just go print yourself one!
We will be setting up a cost/gram system for use of the filament and shop time, but you can bring your own (3mm) filament and go nuts.
I'll be working on the user manual for it over the next few weeks, so if
by
aplavins
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
I'm using 2x 6.8ohm wire-wound resistors in parallel. The PID settings of the firmware should adjust automatically for different heater wattages.
by
aplavins
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General
I've actually had really good experiences with Mixshop... They throw in free stuff if you're waiting too long. They will print you parts as a favour so that you can have a working machine etc...
Good guys IMHO
by
aplavins
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Calibrate all of your axis and your e-steps/mm. you'll know you are extruding the right amount of plastic when the top layer of parts are 98-100% full but not bulging.
too little is better than too much.
by
aplavins
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Printing
if you need a machined contact surface, FDM is not the best option for you.
it's not a problem with the plastics, more the process.
what's the tolerance you're trying to achieve?
by
aplavins
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Printing
pictures would help
by
aplavins
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Printing
looks like you're printing too cold, not extruding enough plastic, or your extruder is jamming/slipping.
by
aplavins
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Printing
too hot, put a fan on it and insulate your hot end.
by
aplavins
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Printing
I'm astounded that you were able to print that with a loose pulley. One thing I do notice is that your bottom layer is not completely full. That means too little plastic extruded or extruder slipping at the start of the print (maybe it hadn't reached temperature yet).
Also the infill and perimeter of the first layer (only) look misaligned.
by
aplavins
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Printing
welcome to FDM printing.
this is a universal problem for all machines that do not have some type of software correction.
The important dimensions are your OUTER dimensions. The reason holes come out smaller than designed is that the extrusion is pulled toward the centre of a hole by the nozzle while it is printed.
ways around this:
design a test piece with the desired hole and modify the hole
by
aplavins
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Printing
I was able to get my bed temp up to 140C and the ABS wouldn't warp but the lower 5mm of the part looked cooked and glassy. Maybe check out "the brim" it's a new kind of raft. I haven't tested it yet but it looks promising.
by
aplavins
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
I'm using marlin firmware and skeinforge for slicing. In the firmware, under the configuration tab you'll see this:
// default settings
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160,160,2267.72,998.88} // default steps per unit for ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 10, 45} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,8000} // X, Y, Z, E ma
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
You could use the slicer to set the extrusion temp higher for the first layer, then back to your standard for the rest of the print. Or just raise the heated bed temp, I can get ABS to stick to plain glass at 110C.
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
You should try printing on glass now, you never have to replace it.
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
go here and match your thermistor to the pictures
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
I'm using Marlin 1.0 for my prusa, it works nicely.
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
I had a problem with the motor wire connector that plugs into the 4 pin header on the RAMPS board. I guess the contact surfaces were not adequate for the amount of current the motor was pulling. So I removed the connector and header and soldered the motor wires directly into the board.
Also fan and heat-sink may help
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
sometimes i need to upload a small sketch like "blink.pde" to "empty" the mega's eeprom. I upload the firmware after that and it works fine.
just for a sanity check though... make sure your board and port settings are correct in the arduino environment.
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
first of all, it looks like the layers haven't had enough time to cool before the next one is extruded. Try putting a fan pointed at the print (this may cause other issues like the need to insulate the hotend). as for the bulge at point A, try increasing your max z feedrate in firmware and the slicer. mine is set to 5mm/s with a 4mm/s2 acceleration. This will shorten the time it takes to jump fro
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
try thicker juice, it should dry to a film. also your extrusion temp seems low for ABS, should be above 230.
by
aplavins
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Reprappers
get a can of spray white lithium grease and spray it on all the bushings and both rods.
the gcode should help break in the bushings.
I also noticed skipping and lowered the current until it stopped. (and added a fan+heatsinks)
by
aplavins
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General
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