Show all posts by user
Page 1 of 3
Pages: 123
Results 1 — 30 of 81
Thanks. The board is using 24v power supply. I assumed the drivers are fed 24v but I have yet to check. FFCP is using a Mightyboard RevE.
I will need to do some tinkering to figure this out.
by
jininjin
-
Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I have yet to print anything so I am not really sure how it will sound. I am testing by jogging the z axis up and down and comparing this to x and y axis. It will be loud on certain steps but quiet on others. But in general sounds much louder.
My conclusion is to just swap out the z axis stepper motor since it is different from the others...
Support from Watterott suggested Stealthchop mode and
by
jininjin
-
Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Sorry missed your post. Either Way I bought the drivers and installed them for X, Y and Z for now. I have yet to print anything ..will do this soon and post updates. I am using the drivers in spreadcycle mode since most recommended that mode to reduce chance of missed steps.
They are probably 1/3 the noise of the stock drivers. It has a small hiss to them but no where near the deeper sounds that
by
jininjin
-
Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Can I use the TMC2100 on a Mightyboard if I reconfigure the pins? Will the microstepping work and still be using the silent mode (stealthChop)?
I had one of my drivers fail and wondering if I can make my Flashforge Creator Pro 2016 model work a little more quiet...
Any thoughts on this?
Wiki
Github
by
jininjin
-
Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I am finding when I import a stl into Slic3r it is using by default the lowest point of the 3d model rather than the models zero point. In my case I generated supports for a DLP print using B9Creator software. The software sometimes creates supports in the negative so my models are usually messed a bit when using that software. Instead of fixing the model it would be great if Slic3r used the mode
by
jininjin
-
Slic3r
I couldn't get it to work with the shield off either. I ended up switching from a laptop to desktop and it worked instantly. I am not sure why that's the case but I guess I have to use a different machine to upload.
Edit: Turned out I messed up downloaded the nightly build. The stable release works fine on both computers. Sorry for any wasted time. Thanks for helping!
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
Hi Dust. I am having a bit of trouble uploading to my ramps board so I cannot test it out. What settings should I change? Here is the endstops section of my config.h file:
// ################ Endstop configuration #####################
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_X_MIN true
#define ENDSTOP_X_MIN_INVERTING false
#define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_X true
#define ENDSTOP_PULLUP_Y_MIN true
#define ENDSTOP_Y_
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
It's not working anymore.
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_recv(): checksum error
avrdude: stk500v2_recv(): checksum error
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x5dd1
0x04 != 0x93
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch
Everytime I upload it timesout. I can see the lights flashing on the board
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
Thanks Dust,
I will take another look at them and the firmware. I am using MakerBot Mechanical Endstops v1.2. I read these can fry your board if you are not careful.
I ended up following a comment about not using the + so right now two wires are plugged into ground and signal.
I presume this is where I messed up. I may replace them with regular endstops since I am not particularly fond of these
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
I am not sure if this is the best place to post but I have a bunch of issues with my new i3 build:
- x moves in one direction only
- y moves in one direction only
- z only moves up
- Extruder motor doesn't do anything
- Endstops do not seem to respond even if I switch them from min to max.
Thanks for any help I am hoping to figure these out soon but any suggestions would be helpful.
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
Got it to work!
I read a few posts and I tried a bunch of random ideas. One or some of these fixed it.
- I turned off the power supply to the Arduino and just used the USB
- Pressed reset while uploading which generated an error
- Next I switchd the processor from Mega 2560 to 1280 which also generated an error
- I finally switched it back to 2560 and reuploaded which worked..
I have no idea
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
This is the latest error:
avrdude: stk500v2_recv(): checksum error
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x074e
0x50 != 0x00
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch
I tried a new cord but the same error occurred. I have tried the blink test and that uploads fine and works.
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
I haven't tried a new cord. The cord worked on my CNC controller but I will try a different one. No lamps or weird stuff around.
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
Im getting this error on my new i3 build when uploading firmware via Arduino IDE uploader 1.6.8. Any idea what this is? The board led flashes when uploading but it hangs after a while:
avrdude: stk500v2_recv(): checksum error
avrdude: stk500v2_recv(): checksum error
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer
by
jininjin
-
RAMPS Electronics
Thanks. Is it an issue if the rods are a bit longer?
by
jininjin
-
General
What is the recommended rod lengths for the Prusa i3 single plate build? Last time I cut rods for my i2 build they were too short, so I do not want to blindly follow the guides like last time.
The Reprap wiki and the github google doc have different lengths:
Smooth rods:
M8
2x X= 370 or 380
2x Y= 350 or 420
2x Z= 320 or 340
Idler= 20mm
Threaded rods:
4x Y= 210 or 220 M10
2x Y=380 or 440 M10
by
jininjin
-
General
I plan on upgrading from I2 to I3 Prusa and would like to upgrade my hot end and extruder. I currently use a J-Head Mk IV-B with Greg's Extruder. Is there a better combo out there now?
I currently have issues with jamming. I added a fan a few months back to cool the heatsink which helped with prints but it still jams randomly but a lot less than before. I also want to try a deeper threaded hobb
by
jininjin
-
General
Thanks I will have to give all those a try.
Anyone try the pro version of NetFabb? I saw some good options that might help. I also heard of Magics 17 but I haven't looked into it much yet.
Meshlab is great but tricky since it is not specifically made for 3D prints. I usually end up with a blob.
I will look at blenders mesh options next.
by
jininjin
-
General
Is there is any other software out there that is good for repairing and exporting stl's?. NetFab is great but I wanted to see if there is any alternatives to try.
Thanks!
by
jininjin
-
General
I think you are both right. I moved the z axis a bunch of times higher up and it was a bit stiff. I presume when the nozzle is near the bed the rods have more room to flex but while higher up the rods are rigid and harder for the motors to move... I lube it more hope it works now.
by
jininjin
-
General
I am not using the SD card for this. The Z axis seem to work fine up until it hits the same point in this print. I checked all the slices in pronterface, visually they look fine too. I am not sure but I will try Kisslicer to see if that issue goes away.
by
jininjin
-
General
I printed the same thing twice and they both fail at the same point in the print. It appears that at around 92% the nozzle does not lift in the Z axis for at least two layers. The second print on the right I manually lifted the nozzle and resumed the print so the rest of the layers looked fine except for the two layers at 92%. Can slic3r create issues like this? corrupt slice? I may try the kisss
by
jininjin
-
General
I am printing 2mm walls. During the print of the walls it prints nice straight borders then it decides to fill in the middle of the wall with a diagonal hatch. The issue is that the middle of the wall is tiny so it takes forever instead of printing a straight line. How can I change the threshold so I can just print 3 lines. 2 Borders and 1 middle.
The print is a rectangle 50mm tall with 2mm thic
by
jininjin
-
Slic3r
Thanks Andrew. I hooked one fan to D9 for now and I will look into SevenSwitch for a longer term solution.
by
jininjin
-
General
I second Enlightx get a 12V 20A PSU. I just switched from a atx power supply to a 12V 20A PSU. The atx power supplies I found are not worth it With a atx you get too many cords, fan noise, its big and limited options for power. The PSU is small and just works. You can hook up a switch and print a front cover for it. See here
by
jininjin
-
General
I wanted to add two fans to my setup (cooling for j-head heat sink area and one for the print) . What are my options?
So far I saw you can hook one fan to D9 and use a 12v fan. Allowing to be controlled via g-code. I noticed here you can hook a fan to the extra stepper controller but you cannot use G-Code. Is this correct? I presume you would need a resistor to have control?
Any other places to
by
jininjin
-
General
Thanks, I am not sure how I messed that up. I will try again.
by
jininjin
-
General
I have just wired up my Ramps 1.4 to my Prusa and I am finding all endstops are triggered on by default. If I hold one of the endstops it allows the axis to move. Do I need to rewire or can I switch something in the configuration.h file? I tried the x_endstops_inverting false and that did not work....
Any Suggestions?
by
jininjin
-
General
Page 1 of 3
Pages: 123