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Thanks yet again. Looks like I didn't quite follow the UI layout of Kisslicer.
I'll post comparison pictures soon once I dial in the settings on Simplify3D for the Tantillus.
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ronderful
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Tantillus
Thanks Sublime.
In Kisslicer, I changed the temperature and fans speeds on the material tab, but it doesn't seem to take - temperature defaults to 220 (M104 S220) in the gcode, and the fan speed at 64 (M106 S64). Plus Kisslicer drops in M107 almost every layer or so, so the fan spins up and spins down almost every layer.
I'm running it on Mac, so not sure if these issues are specific to this OS
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ronderful
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Tantillus
I have been getting great prints from Kisslicer, but I have to post-process the gcode file with sed scripts.
Kisslicer puts the wrong temperature values, and the fan speed is way off.
It's a bit of an annoyance as I sometimes forget to do this after sending the file off to print.
I'm using version 1.1.0.14.
Anyone using another slicing software with decent success?
I see Sublime making commit
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ronderful
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Tantillus
Ordered a prusa kit (excluding printed parts) from them and had the same issue as ShetiPhian with the PCB heated bed.. LED was busted due to the way the packed the kit - power supply, MDF boards lying on top of the PCB heated bed.
Not a deal breaker for me as I can easily attach another LED, but something others might want to be aware of. I was offered a replacement, but I would have to dri
by
ronderful
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Glad you got it all sorted out
On a somewhat related note, I found that if the cables were not taut enough or the smooth rods weren't lubricated properly, movement in the perpendicular direction could shift the upper rods i.e. upper X rod will shift back and forth when the printer head moved back and forth in the y direction.
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ronderful
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Tantillus
Just out of curiosity, is anyone using 1.75mm hotend ? I had a sidebar conversation with Sublime, and 3mm is the recommended filament size due to rigidity etc - retraction speed, feed thru bowden tube... I chose 1.75mm initially given I use that for my Prusa - one size for all my machines... I'm switching to 3mm to see what the results will be, but interested in anyone else's experience with the
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ronderful
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Tantillus
For me, I had X axis skipping and it turned out to be the flats on my motor. I had to filed them myself. For one motor, I failed to bring the flat close enough to the motor body.
The set screws happened to be biting into that section. The kicker was that the skip was intermittent, so I dismissed this as the likely cause until I did other similar steps WWFP mentioned.
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ronderful
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Tantillus
Would anyone who has a printed a case care to share any photos of wiring inside?
Finally finished my Tantillus, but just working on cleaning up my wiring. I've resigned to mounting the RAMPS outside the case. I have an LCD I picked up from reprapdiscount as well. Haven't figured out how I'll mount that guy or if I will bother.
I find things a little tight in the printed case so I'd be curio
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ronderful
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Tantillus
Awesome. Thanks Sublime! My Prusa runs pretty much the whole day, and the steppers can be quite warm to the touch after hours of printing.
Had to throw the question out there as the cabling took the longest part in the assembly. I would hate to have to do it again if the case warped.
Everything is pretty much done except for final wiring - Canada Post takes so damn long - I need my RAMPS!!!!!
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ronderful
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Tantillus
I read the kits come with ABS motor mounts. As well the XY steppers press against the acrylic case.
I've built the printed case version and everything I printed was in PLA.
The motor mounts I can re-print in ABS if I do see melting.
It's the case I'm worried about. Do I need to introduce some kind of insulation between the motor and the case?
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ronderful
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Tantillus
If you are going the pre-assembled route from a company, look into lead times for shipping the printer to you. The lead time includes the manufacturing, calibration and testing before it gets sent. The company's website will give you an idea of how long it will take, but you should also Google to see how long others have truly waited.
As for commercially available printers, also verify the ty
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ronderful
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General
Actually I've had a pleasant experience with VoxelFactory. Quality of PLA has been good so far, and prices are good if you buy the dual or triple filament packages.
They did mess up one of my orders at one point, but they rectified it immediately.
A2A Printer (I think they are affiliated with MixShop) is pretty good as well. I wouldn't consider them cheap tho. They do local pickup in Toronto (
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ronderful
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Had to chuckle when I read ox9ny's post. I feel your pain.
Yes, the printed case takes a looooong time to print - 4-5 hours a piece, 12 pieces. I'm still not done as I ran out of blue PLA. Funny how 1kg spool runs out quick when you make mistakes during prints (configuration-wise) or when you accidentally print the wrong piece twice, and only notice after 4-5 hours.
But everything else printed
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ronderful
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Tantillus
Thanks Guys.
Best way to learn is doing - I'll see how the angle grinder with cutoff wheel works out.
Luckily I do have a a drill press.
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ronderful
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Tantillus
Try "downgrading" to Slic3r 0.72b.
I hit a related or possibly same issue with Slic3r 0.95 with the z_arms. I hit a different issue with the printed bushings as it was generating gaps in the gcode - not sure if it's related to my settings. In any case, since moving down to Slic3r 0.7.2b, I haven't had any issues with slicing any of the parts, asides from the occasional part I needed to reposi
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ronderful
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Tantillus
I'm in the process of building the printed case version and hopefully follow in the footsteps of Eric,Pokey et al.
I'll source most of the parts myself, but will probably get a few parts from Sublime, specifically the smooth rods.
I noticed that it indicates "hardened steel". How are you guys cutting it? A quick google showed me that hardened steel
is tricky to cut - bandsaw is a no no. Next
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ronderful
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Tantillus