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That looks like classic cooling issue with small prints/layers.
You could turn on the Cooling in Slic3r under the Filament tab. It will slow the printer down when only small areas are being printed. Also allows fan adjusting it you are using one.
by
Komb'
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General
Ok,
I thought it was the floating head problem I had before with a loose hot-end extender, but tightening the X-carriage on it's bearings didn't make the ridges go away. Although the appearance of thicker and thinner traces in the layers had gone...
So, I tried some other settings.
Different heights actually produce ridges at the same heights...
Remembering all the previous prints had been
by
Komb'
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Printing
Sublime's post made me think in other directions and I hate sitting and waiting for someone else to figure out my problems.
I re-checked the filament size and found I had transposed the last two digits. 2.79 vs 2.97.
Did a smaller print and it worked great, but still had very small lines in it.
Then it hit me! (Ouch.)
The Wallace I'm using in this print has a vertical X carriage, and I had n
by
Komb'
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Printing
Sublime Wrote:
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> Just another thought on this. Be sure you are not
> disabling the Z motor between moves. If you
> disable the Z motor between moves then relying on
> microstepping is a very bad idea for sure.
If these are the lines in Marlin,
// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y
by
Komb'
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Printing
My Z setps are: 3200/1.25 in Marlin
When I tell Pronterface to move Z 200, the X stage stops 200mm from it's start.
I've printed objects at .2 with little visible issues, however I printed this at a .15 layer height and got really bad layer smash.
I was watching and could see the trace thickness change from ok to rather think to 'Way too close thick' then the next layer is way too thin.
The r
by
Komb'
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Printing
regpye Wrote:
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> The print is now correct. The movements in the
> Pronterface window are not correct.
> X axis is OK and works the way it shows on the
> screen. The Y axis is no OK, it works opposite to
> the screen.
>
> It seems that I either have the print mirrored or
> the Y axis in the control software is backward
by
Komb'
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General
Ok,
That's a rather small part with fine detail.
I would have to try it on my .4 or .35 machine to get it right.
I printed it on my .45 machine but didn't have cooling on so it looks blobby.
Slic3r didn't do the bridging right on the bottom either.
by
Komb'
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Printing
I coulden't get Slic3r .99 or KissSlicer v1.0.9.7 to work with that stl.
It looked good in both MeshLab and NetFab. Took a chance and ran NetFab repair on it and saved the results.
I don't think it actually repared anything, but the file was rediced from 530.2k to 83.8k.
SLic3r liked it and sliced.
Waiting for my printer to hear-up and see what I get.
In the mean time here is the reduced fil
by
Komb'
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Printing
Would this be what you're looking for?
I haven't looked at Cubify, 3DME, but this matched your description somewhat.
by
Komb'
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General
IceMan Wrote:
> Not being rude by any means, but one learn more by
> digging/analysing than being spoon fed.
>
True,
However, I originally only came here after banging my head against a problem for hours and appreciated it when I got an answer.
A new place to look was appreciated too...
by
Komb'
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Printing
Yup,
That be bad ABS.
I had some like that and my .35 head kept jamming up with a big air bubble.
I managed to use it up on a .5 hotend souded like popcorn at times.
Printing thin layers with the .5 head you could see where a bubble was as there would be a gap in the layer along the edge.
I only used that stuff for test prints.
Time to find the good stuff.
I've used Makerbot, 3D Printer St
by
Komb'
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Printing
Try printing a little hotter.
by
Komb'
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Printing
IceMan,
I just realized you asked how did you, not how do you.
Still, the information should be good for somebody reading this later.
by
Komb'
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Printing
IceMan,
Measure and mark a line on your filament either 50 or 100mm above the top of the extruder.
Accuracy counts.
Tell your host software (Pronterface or other) to extrude 50 or 100mm.
If the line goes into the extruder reduce the number of steps, you'll have to guess.
If the line is above the extruder, subtract the remaining distance from original distance.
eg: 20mm of 100mm left above ex
by
Komb'
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Printing
The Extruder and Nozzle would need to be modified/replaced for the smaller filament.
The main draw back to 3mm filament is it's harder to push through the smaller (.35mm or less) nozzles.
1.75mm works better there.
by
Komb'
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Printing
Looks like you're extruding too much plastic.
Either check the E steps calibration in firmware or If you're sure that is correct tell the slicer your filament is thicker
by
Komb'
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Printing
What firmware is the printer using?
Pronterface looks to be sending the command out, which is its job. Then it mush wait for the printer to respond.
by
Komb'
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General
I'm not sure what extruder you are using, but I can usually clean the plastic out of the hobbed bolt just by:
Removing the filament,
removing/opening the idler,
Scraping the bolt with a knife point or small screwdriver.
Knocking all the plastic slivers out of the grooves while turning the bolt gear by hand.
You shouldn't need to disassemble all that much.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
I liked the plastic so much, I'm now stocking it in my store.
More colours and types and sizes arriving in the near future.
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Brittle parts can be a sing of needing to print at a higher temperature.
As for infill, I wouldn't go below 20% even with hex fill for the larger parts.
by
Komb'
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General
The current DIY machines are currently limited to 20cmx20cm or 8"x8" Height varies also. from 10cm to 20cm on average with some much taller machines available.
There are experiments into larger printing machines, but nothing , that I know of, fully tested and documented yet.
Others?
by
Komb'
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General
EckerTech.com Canada
I find it to be good quality. Tall spools though.
by
Komb'
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General
Ok,
PC->USB <--fixed baud rate--> USB->Arduino/Ramps
If too much detail is necessary for print the PC can fill the USB pipe and have to wait. The Arduino also ends-up waiting on commands at times. This can cause pauses in the print.
Arduino/RAMPS<->SD
The Arduino can read the SD way faster then the USB link making all print commands instantly available when needed. No Wai
by
Komb'
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Printing
You really notice the difference between SD and pc when you have a lot of curves or small details in the print. These can saturate the USB line causing slowdown or pauses in the print.
by
Komb'
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Printing
When I started out, That is exactly what I started with.
The first go, I was it too much of a hurry, didn't have a tap, so drilled the hole big enough I could thread the brass by hand.
Surprisingly, this actually worked for a couple months of testing/calibrating. Then the end popped out.
The second one I drilled/threaded too far up the PTFE, causing the heat to get too far up and welded the fi
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
herisuprapto Wrote:
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> Thanks to Komb', I'd do it by copying files (.
> Stl) to the microSD,
Um...
Printing directly from a pc or from the microSD, you first need to slice the .stl files into .gcode (I use .g in the card)
You need to run the .stl through either Slic3r or Skienforge to make the .gcode file.
.stl open 3D file specific
by
Komb'
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Printing
Without knowing more, I can only guess at the problem.
1. Do you have a 12V power supply attached to the RAMPs board?
1a. Is it turned on. (I get caught by this occasionally as the Arduino/RAMPS lights up and talks to the computer with just the USB 5v.)
The motors and heated bed/extruder need the 12v.
2. How are your motors wired?
The RepRap Ramps wiki says they should be:
From left to right
by
Komb'
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General
The pins are Xmin, Xmax, Ymin,Ymax etc... You only need the Minimum or 0 position switches installed. You can use the others for hardware stops or configure the firmware to use the Max stops and offset back from there.
Just using the min stops is easiest.
Try flipping the Y motor connector.
Have you levelled your print bed yet?
If yes, set the Z endstop so you can slide a piece of paper under
by
Komb'
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General
