Show all posts by user
Pop the micro SD out of the printer. slot it into your PC. Use card/chip to usb adapter if necessary.
Copy files onto SD. I think it needs to be in 8,3 name format for the Printer to read. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Eject/unmount SD from PC slot into printer.
... Or did I mis-understand the question...
by
Komb'
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Printing
... melting your parts? Pictures?
Are you sure it's ABS?
Depending on the supplier, I run ABS between 235-250c and prints cone out nice.
However those temps would be way to high for PLA. 185-190c I use for PLA at >220 I'm sure it would be a melted mess.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Ya, IF your nozzle is 0.5mm you should be printing at 0.4mm or lower layer heights. 0.45mm on the outside.
The layers need to be slightly squished into each other to make a good bond.
At 0.5mm on a 0.5mm nozzle they are just laying on each other. very little surface contact to bond with.
by
Komb'
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General
I find the two main culprits to be:
Wrong layer height. (trying to print .4 layers with a .35 head...)
printing too cold. I've had beautiful prints that would break easily with a little pressure. Bumped the temp up 5deg. and the same print came out Solid!
Also I hear too much cooling (fan) can cause PLA to not bond properly also.
by
Komb'
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General
One note on the Netbook.
If either or both printers are doing lots of curves/detail, I have to set Pronterface for that printer to mini mode to alleviate the overhead of drawing the graphics.
Alternatively, I print from SD and Pronterface just monitors the printer output.
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Printing with 3mm filament doesn't mean plugging 3mm into the slicing program.
I'm using good 3mm filament. is has a listed variance of "2.81-2.89mm". I have my Slic3r 9.8 set to 2.87 for a smooth top finish.
However, last time I printed on the Blue spool, I had signs of over fill in areas where solid fill was necessary, (Usually print with 20-25% fill), So, I'll have to bump the setting up unt
by
Komb'
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Printing
Considering I'm using a old Netbook to run Two printers, I don't see how a bigger laptop wouldn't work as well or better.
But then I am using Linux, Don't know how well it works under Windows.
(Although I'm sure it's fine. )
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
A Picture would help.
If you mean the nozzle is dragging through the print when doing fill, it may be that the Extruder isn't calibrated right or your filament diameter isn't set right in Slic3r.
How dose it do on the 20mm solid cube test?
by
Komb'
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Printing
I have one!
It's great. There were some teething problems, which they worked out for me, but it's mostly been slice & print since I got it.
I would recommend my spool hook for though.
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Re-looked through the parts of my last order...
They are including the hot-end, but it is the build it your self kit.
The build instructions are on there site.
If you do built it, follow the instructions carefully. I rushed my first one and it was a quick failure.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
If you're talking about their Prusa Kits, they are of good quality. I've ordered a few.
Sometimes you might need to smooth an end of the threaded rods to get the nuts on, but mostly it's all good.
I would recommend getting the J-head hot-end from hotends.com.
I tried the build-it your self hotends, (went through 5..) and it will teach you much, but not really worth the aggravation.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
As I understand it, the Non printable parts, metal rods, screws, nuts etc. are the "Vitamins". (Makes you stronger)
Then you get the Electronics, motors, wires, switches. I don't think they are technically "vitamins", but you usually find them the same places that sell the rod kits.
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
The "unofficial standard" is a Prusa. As Fredlatesta said, "best" is subject to discussion.
My first printer was a Prusa v1. I learned so much building and tuning it.
There is probably far more info on assembling and tuning your basic Prusa than most other printers out there.
As for parts, I sell both Prusa and Wallace parts. You can get equally good Prusa parts from EckerTech.
They also sell
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Welcome and enjoy the Adventure!
Questions are always welcome.
Answers depend on the experiences of the posters involved though.
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Now carrying Extruder bodies and gears.
Prusa style and my own Wallace style based on the Eckstruder Prusa.
by
Komb'
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Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
I've been using alligator clips.
They act like heat sinks to dissipate the heat before reaching the solder joint and are very easy to remove.
I do run them more vertically now.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
joestefano Wrote:
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> Thank you for your response, Wher can I find this
> "Tower Test"??
It's part of this set:
and others.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
I usually keep my heated bed between 100-110.
The hot end temp required is very dependant on the Plastic you use.
Some plastic I was using ran at 220.
Others run at 230-240.
What you really need to do is either do the tower print test and adjust temp till it looks right.( So I've heard...)
Or run the temp up until you see the plastic just start to ooze out the bottom of the nozzle. You migh
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Solved!!!
The new extender doesn't let the J-head move at all and the lines are Gone!
Thanks to all who helped me figure this one out.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Generally, just having the wires come down from the top of the printer, just long enough to have a little slack when the X-carriage is at the bottom usually does fine.
you can also use a wire wrap to keep them together and out of the way.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
I was using Skeinforge when I was building my original Prusa. I then switched to Sfact to reduce the learning curve.
I was starting to get the hang of it when Slic3r came along and made settings simple enough I could focus my attention on the other problems I was having.
Now Slic3r Is being the problem too often.
I want to get my head back around Sfact/Skeinforge, but now I have three differen
by
Komb'
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Skeinforge
Might help to know where you are so others might know local sources.
by
Komb'
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General
konwiddak Wrote:
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> ..., is your hotend
> still firmly attached to the carriage.
>
I think you may have something There.
The extender I'm using to get the shorter J-heads below the X carriage seems to have some play between the screws and top inner surface.
So much so, that I can see the head lift on every retract.
I will print
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Tried doing a precision print and noticed the problem is still there. Just reduced.
What are the probable causes?
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
You are correct sir!
I printed the maze cylinder and watched the machine closely.
I noticed that the Z couplers where in the same place every time a band showed up.
They were printer over a year ago with bad plastic on a not well tuned Prusa.
Replaced them with a clamping coupler and the results are noticeable.
Thanks for the help.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Polygonhell Wrote:
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> ... I printed
> some parts the other day with the temperature in
> the room at < 5C,...
I have Got to do more PLA printing.
Need my Basement above 73f/24c to keep the Big ABS prints on the bed.
by
Komb'
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General
Thanks Lots guys!
I went back to AoI first as I wanted to do it in a visual editor and it reminded me of the one I had on my ST.
Looks like I have it now. Saving file now.
I'll try it some other time in OpenSCAD.
by
Komb'
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3D Design tools
I just finished a build of a Wallace printer.
I've gotten X,Y and E calibrated.
Z usually can be left at the default 3200/1.25 or 2560, but my test prints are showing layer smash.
I'm reasonably sure it's not Z-wobble as I've seen that before and it looks like threading on the print.
These prints look great, except for the periodic line. See Pic.
The holes are bubbles in the plastic. Using
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
