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I've been banging my head on this most of the day...
It's been too long since I did anything in 3D editing programs.
I need to cut some text into another object.
I've used openscad to convert the text from and Inkscape .dxf file to .stl
I have MeshLab, Art of Illusion, netfab basic and Blender to work with.
AoL keeps opening another window when I try importing the second .stl in.
Netfab Bas
by
Komb'
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3D Design tools
Idolcrasher Wrote:
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> Slic3r 9.7 is causing pimples and spikes:
>
Thanks for the Update!
I had thought 9.7 had fixed everything. But this week it has been doing psycho jobs on some of my .stl files. to the point I've been screening the gcode through the pronterface viewer before I commit the print.
by
Komb'
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General
I'm using Netfabb-Basic.
When Slic3r complains about an .stl file, I open my copy of Netfabb and navigate..."Part > Add" and load the offending part in.
Then I hit the big Red Plus and tell it to repair and replace the part.
Then I go "Part > Export part > as STL", and save the repaired part.
Slic3r usually likes it then.
You can also use the basic version for rotating and scaling p
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
My tool chain currently,
Slic3r for converting .stl files to .gcode
(Sfact/Skeinforge give more control but takes more time to master. Still I'm thinking of getting back into it.)
Pronterface/Printrun for controlling the printer.
SD cards are nice but not necessary.
If I'm running a new part or testing, I run it from the computer.
If I'm happy with the print and want more of the same, I mov
by
Komb'
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General
I second that.
Unless the instructions say different for that print.
It also depends on your nozzle size.
by
Komb'
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General
rogerw Wrote:
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> komb, then what do you do - go higher? 0.1, 0.2?
>
I usually do one of two things.
If it's real bad:
1. I pause the print.
2. remove the stuff on the plate.
3. Get the filament moving through the head again.
4. Move the Z stop up a tad. (can be tricky)
5. Restart print.
If perimeter not too squashed, let it go othe
by
Komb'
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General
I've been quite impressed with the EckerTech plastic spools.
EckerTech has been working with a Canadian plastics manufacturer to make filament specifically for 3d printing.
I'm actually talking with them about stocking some for my store in Scarborough. (GTA)
The only down side I've found is the Spools are huge in diameter. They don't fit most top side spoolers.
I've already designed one that
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Usually, when I've go my nozzle too close to the bed or told Slic3r the bottom layer was too thick, the bottom layer looks more like a smeared on mess than neat slightly flattened lines of filament. With obvious tool marks where the head crosses the fill.
If I'm filling a large enough area, the pressure builds up and the bold strips my filament. At this point the fill will trail off.
Sometimes,
by
Komb'
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General
Just as I hit the reply button Polygonhell's post shows up.
Coulden't say it better myself.
by
Komb'
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General
I see in my excitement I forgot to specify Plastic parts.
However, the inventory will be expanding as things progress.
by
Komb'
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Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Glankonian Protoforms is now online at:
Glankonian Protoforms here.
Located in Toronto Ontario.
Will ship anywhere in Canada or US.
International orders are welcome to.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
by
Komb'
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Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Personal experience...
Small nozzles are great for fine horizontal detail and I hear can more easily print thinner layers for better vertical detail.
However, they are more prone to blockage/jamming.
Larger nozzles are more forgiving and can still do fairly thin layers.
For instance, I can run low quality bubble laden plastic through my .5mm nozzle with no problems...(Unless the filament deci
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
fredlatesta Wrote:
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...
> That is so cool*
...
> * Extreme Sarcasm
Lol!
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
IF printing directly from Pronterface:
Press Pause button.
Clean printbed.
Press Restart (Was Print) not Resume (Was Pause.)
Wait for it to check temps, and away it goes.
If printing from SD:
I've had problems doing this, As it seems to want to continue anyway...
but is is similar.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
I have an imperfect set of Prusa v1 parts. Black. Pla bushings included. (Green)
No extruder.
The imperfections are slight warping, But the parts are usable.
I'm usually in Scarborough, But my Wife works in downtown Toronto.
PM me if you are interested.
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Change the baud rate in the configuration.h to 112500. save then re-upload.
I had to do this to get Marlin working with my early Netbook computer.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Having just done two prints with honeycomb fill that I had previously done only in sparse/rectiliner fill. Using the same settings otherwise.
I have been impressed by the strength of the parts.
I think I'll be sticking to Honeycomb fill for any non-"prity print" parts.
by
Komb'
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General
I'm only now starting to make Production parts, so my knoledge is limited.
Infact I was searching the issue when I came here.
In my minimal experience, printing too cold can cause brittle parts.
For instance, I printed some x-ends and they broke apart easily with a nice crystiline cracking sound when I tried to remove them from the bed.
I did the same print at a little higher temp, and the pa
by
Komb'
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General
yydoctt Wrote:
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...
> Here are some suggestions:
>
> Increase bed temperature
I can't get my bed above 110c (as listed by the sensor, actual temp ?)
I have tried lowering the temp after the first layer. Usually to 90-95c.
Had a print lift off at 80c
> Increase first layer temperature (hotend/bed)
I find that 230c is usually h
by
Komb'
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General
I'm still trying to get rid of the curl. Maybe I'm too much a perfectionest.
However, I'd like to match the quality of the parts I ordered for my machine.
Attached are 2 pics. The second with highlights on the curling inder the brim.
The Brim has reduced the curling to a level where the parts are usable. I'm not sure about saleable.
I've tried dropping the bed temp after the first layer, ABS
by
Komb'
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General
@ nophead,
I wish I knew what to do to impliment what you just said.
@ criswilson10
Here's the code I'm using:
difference(){gear(mm_per_tooth,20,thickness);
gear(mm_per_tooth/1.75,20,thickness*2);}
gear(mm_per_tooth/1.75,13,thickness);
Imediatly after commenting out the demo gears.
by
Komb'
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General
I need to make a ring with gear teeth in the inside curve.
Currently I'm using www.thingiverse.com/thing:5505 and removed the gear from the disk, leaving a toothed inside curve.
However, when using a smaller gear, same teeth, it binds.
My first thought, was to make a single tooth and populate the inside of the ring with them.
I would like to know if there is a better way before I get too far.
by
Komb'
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General
Unfortunatly, I currently have no way to verify the bet temp vs the sensor.
The warping I'm having is slight, but I would like to have none.
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
I've got some good prints coming off my printer now.
However, if I try a plate sized print, the pieces start to warp late in the print.
I've been running with just the default bed temps on Pronter face since I moved the sonsor.
So, 110 for hole print in ABS.
I'm guessing I should drop that by about 10 after the first layer.
However, I thought I'd ask here as I know some of you are using the
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Update!
The spray foam I had under the heat bed was turning brown, and I had finaly aquired fiberglass insulation I had originally wanted to use.
So, While I was at it, I moved the thermister from the top edge of the glass to the center under the heat bed.
Result, Bed temps can now be run at recomended settings, and no baking!
As for stripping the paint off. It was hard to do, and I can't ge
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Are these bubbles in the filiment?
My prints keep stopping and it's getting really anoying.
My previous plastic was good til about 1/2 way through the roll where it had many bubbles.
I can bend the filiment back against the curve and where it turns white, I can snap it off ans see the bubble.
This pic is from a different supplier. The plactic (ABS) is much stiffer (more pressuer on ideler to
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
For Canadian palstic parts, I'd recomend:
www.eckertech.com
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
