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I just tried printing Prusa V2 plate 2.
Ran from 1:20pm to 8:00pm.
Ended unhappily as nozzle stopped extruding.
(Can the ptfe liner get too hot in a J-Head?)
As you can see from the first pic, the bottom layers started getting glossy and brown.(pic 1)
More so tword the center of the build area. Heat defomation also seen near center. (pic 2)
I'll be looking into the J-head tomorrow.
As for t
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
A clearer picture might help the dianosis.
by
Komb'
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General
As the only capton I have is 6.5mm wide... No.
I'm thinking it's improper temp reporting by the sensor, but the glass Trevet could be a contributing factor...
I'm on a nother print right now. I was called away while the bed was heating, and had forgotten to re-set it to 95c.
Since it had been heating a while, I decided to try printing on it as that temp(85c). Worst that could happen is I thro
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Nope. That be ABS.
I heat the bed to temp, then hit print just after the hotend reaches temp.
As I said, small prints don't discolour. Only on long prints do I see the bottem layers getting glossy and brown.
On a side note. I just did a mideling length print. After about 20 layers, I dialed back th bed temp to 85c again. (My PLA wont stick unless bed at 92-95c)
The print came out fine, But it
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
As you can see from the attached photo, I'm currently baking the bottoms of my prints.
This only happens on long prints like the Prusa plates or Wallace Base ends.
Shorter prints don't brown like this. (Looks worse in person, Photo makes it lighter...)
Currently, my sensor is mounted on the top of the glass near the back edge.
The machine is reporting 95c. When I noticed the browning I turned
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Sorry, Mono is a non starter for me.
by
Komb'
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General
PLA: Any old pice of glass will work.
ABS: At least tempered glass or other heat treated glass. Regular glass will usually crack at these temps.
ABS Juce: Regular glass coated with ABS Juce is known to work at lower bed tempratures. Cool enough not to crack.
Hope this helps.
by
Komb'
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General
I'm using Fedora, and I originally thought that Slic3r wasn't installing either.
The reason I 'Thought' it wasn't working is I coulden't get a GUI.
However, after reading how to use the commandline interface, I tried that and foune it was working fine. Just from command line not GUI.
So, the first thing I did was have it dump its default config(init?) to a file. Called it Default.conf
Loaded
by
Komb'
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General
Final Update. (Probabily... )
With 2 perimiters and retract still active.
The bases where about the same while filling.
The teeth however, had very little space after the two primiters. The result was a nearly 100% fill. I did notice the occasional hole in the fill, but for the most part it was close enough to 100%.
As you can see from the pic, the result is Beautiful. Well to me anyway.
I
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Update!
While reading another thread, I decided to check my filiment width.
After seening the numbers, I realised, I hadn't checked the filiment width when I switched from PLA to ABS. I had just assumed it would be silular. (Same source.)
Turns out the ABS is closer to 3.2 average vs 2.8. (Doh!)
Plunking that into Slic3r, produced some promising tests.
So, I tried the 4 small gears with a 35
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
I don't know what's so hard about it...
But then I've been programming things since the TRS-80 model 1.
For my current project I chose OpenScad because I could enter dimentions exactly as veriables and just change a variable or two if I was off my a mm or so.
SCAD, like my first book on computer 3d graphics, deals in solid geomirty computations that only get skinned on output. (or when you hit
by
Komb'
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General
I recently found voids/bubbles inside the filiment I was using.
So, I'm looking for an alternative source.
What has been the best for your printer?
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
There's some good advice.
Don't have a fan hooked up as of yet.
The gear I took a photo of was a set of 4.
perimiters set to 2.
I had previously done a single solid fill, 2 perimiter with slightly better results.
Will try single perimiter.
Don't know how to slow down...
Tinkering with Slic3r currently...
Will post with something soon,
Thanks.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Ok, I think this might be a problem.
My latest test started looking like the filiment was stripping.
However, when I femoved the filiment, if didn't show the usual big gouge/gouges where the stripping happened.
Also it was showing stress (white) marks where the bold bit into it.
So, being curious, I snapped a pice off at the stress mark.
Right there, in the middle of the filiment, was a voi
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Interesting.
I looked into it, and noticed that Sprinter had an update, so I tried that first.
Rounds are now ... Round rather than sectional.
The infill is now more cosistant and the sound more pleasent.
Temp on head now controlled by variable resistance(or something) rather than on/off. Making the hot end more stable less swing in temp. I may have to lower my set temp to compensate.
Ends
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
I'm thinking I would apreciate the change to Marlin more after I have my slicing configurations properly set.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
I've been banging my head against this prusa for a few month now.
My prints are close, but not quite there. Usable but not Quality.
I'm currently using Sfact->Pronterface->Sprinter.
Sfact settings:
Filiment Diameter 2.8
Nozzle Diameter .35 (J-head)
Layer height .25
Extrusion width .43
E-Steps adjusted through calibration, and then some...
Results printing the Sfact calibration object 40
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Good news,
Found the Green P lot near the site using Google maps.
Bad news,
My Wife is sick, so I have to watch the kids.
I was really hoping to get my unit better tuned. Having problems with small gears.
Will be there next time.
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
And...
That sounds about right.
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Instead of worrying about the Optional extras,
I used the Capton tape as insulator for the thermister wire and aligator clips on heavy speaker wire for the heat resister.
I did have to use some heat resistand silicone to hold the heat resistor in place though.
Now I'm having problems with Sfact and/or Slic3r overstuffing and stripping filiment...
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
I was running it off my Fedora 64bit linux desktop.
Wanted it to be more portable so I loaded an old Acer aspire one Netbook with CrunchBang (#!) linux and run it from there just fine.
Pronterface/Sfact
I usually do the sliceing on my desktop as the Netbook is rather slow at it.
by
Komb'
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General
I may have had the head a bit too close to the bed when I started my latest print, So I was anoyed, but not surprised when the filiment started slipping during the start of the second layer.
I can sometimes get it to continue by pushing the filiment past the ware spot while printing, but no go this time.
So, I stopped the print and backed the filiment out to clean the hobbing.
What came out o
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Mix shop filament is the only thing I've tried so far.
So, I can't say if it's good, bad or average. But it is working for me.
by
Komb'
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General
Update
Installed a PSU with 2 12v rails at 22a each.
The head and bead heat up faster now.
A test print was working then the head started losing heat anyway. Poked the wire to the heat resister, heard a crunch, then the heat came back!
So, I swapped the resister with a spare I had. It had visible bulges in the caseing and was hard to remove. The new one whent in easily.
While I was doing t
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
I too got the Prusa Kit (Plastic not inc...) and had no real issues.
Also for me they are a short drive downtown to pick-up.
Great service.
by
Komb'
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General
With the extra current, I ran into the problem of the PTFE getting hot and grabbing the filiment.
Attempted to attach a 40mm fan to cool the PTFE and a baffle to keep it away from the hot end/bed.
The baffle worked, but the spalsh back from the local walls prevented proper heating.
When I turned the fan off, I found the aluminum baffle I installed acted like a heat sink/heat deflector and kep
by
Komb'
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Reprappers
Sorry to hijack this thread back to its origin...
I found out that RichRap was printing on glass 'Trevets' found in Kitchen stores. (in the States anyway... )
I searched all the local kitchen stores I knew and came up empty. Benilex(sp?) had something close...
I did a web search and found Bed Bath & Beyond had some on clearence. However, this meant not at the stores. I had to order from
by
Komb'
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
