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I think the current SoCal forum system isn't the most effective, and I've outlined a possible solution here. Thoughts?
by
thedingwing
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California, Los Angeles RUG
This is just something I put together glancing at a map. I live in Orange, so it'd be awesome if others could contribute their thoughts.
by
thedingwing
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Request a Local RepRap User Group
I'd like to put foreword a motion to consolidate and reorganize the RepRap user group forums in Southern California. I believe there are many post getting lost amid the disorganization.
Currently, they are as follows:
Los Angeles
Santa Monica/West Los Angeles (Which is a 10 minute drive from LA and only has one post)
Southern California (too general of an area)
I propose the following:
"Los An
by
thedingwing
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Request a Local RepRap User Group
There will be a RepRap meet up on Saturday, January 25 at 2:00 PM at the 23b shop in Fullerton. 23b is a hackerspace in Fullerton, CA, that has milling machines, electronics workstations, meeting space, etc.
Their address is:
418 E. Commonwealth Ave Unit #1
Fullerton, CA 92832
Cross street is S. Lawrence Ave, a few blocks east of Harbor.
The shop is directly behind Pizza Hut and Stages theat
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
There will be a RepRap meet up on Saturday, January 25 at 2:00 PM at the 23b shop in Fullerton. 23b is a hackerspace in Fullerton, CA, that has milling machines, electronics workstations, meeting space, etc.
Their address is:
418 E. Commonwealth Ave Unit #1
Fullerton, CA 92832
Cross street is S. Lawrence Ave, a few blocks east of Harbor.
The shop is directly behind Pizza Hut and Stages thea
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
I've emailed 23b, and they seem interested. Given some of the posts on their blog, I would suspect there are several RepRap-ers there. I'll make a new thread once something solidifies.
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
Deezmaker is too far north for me. 23b, in Fullerton, it free to use as long as a paying member is present (although i've never been there myself). If someone there is interested in RepRap, we may be able to meet there.
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
Nothing regular, afaik. Everyone seems to be a bit too spread out to get something going. I'm in Anaheim, and I know there are some people in south county and IE, but no good central meeting place. Congratulations on your purchase, I'd be happy to give help and experience; let me know if there's anything you need.
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
MatterHackers is great for fillament but they only carry fully assembled printers (AirWolfs). They have pretty normal hours; you only need an appointment for weekends. The main reason I'm interested in MendelMax is the rigid aluminum frame would be suitable for light CNC machinging (although the x-ends would need some small changes).
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
Due to my class schedule, weekends are best for me. If you start with quality electronics, I'd say go for the build. It'll probably be cheaper and you'll know the machine like the back of your hand. I have a source for free power supplies, cables, some other stuff so let me know what route you decide to go. Documentation is excellent and I'll be happy to share my experiences of how not to build
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
I'd be down for pho. I got a Prusa but I'm planning on rebuilding it into something similar to a MendelMax. The threaded rod frame is very flimsy at high print speeds, and I'd like to have the possibility of doing simple CNC milling in the future.
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
I've had my machine for over 7 months now and I've learned a lot. Having a printer has been very useful and fun. I'd love to get some sort of a community going. Like I said earlier, I'm in Orange (Villa Park).
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
I have a Prusa i2 running Marlin on RAMPS
I'm having an issue where my Z steppers can't decide what direction they want to go. Sometimes they move in the same direction, sometimes they move in opposite directions. I've checked my wiring. I can plug in the motors individually and they work fine. I've also swapped out the pololu with a known good several times. This is an issue that's plagued me
by
thedingwing
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Printing
Plastic doesen't "go bad" as food might, although it might have absorbed some moisture. That shouldn't affect adhesion tho as it boils off in the extruder. Often different brands of fillament have different properties. One brand may stick well to plain glass, while another may need hairspray or lemon juice. My usual testing order is as follows:
Plain Glass
Hairs sprayed glass
3M blue tape
3M bl
by
thedingwing
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Printing
I agree that doesn't look that bad. I wouldn't mess with feedrates once they've been properly calibrated. My two suggestions would be using the Z-lift setting or some support material.
by
thedingwing
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Printing
I've learned a lot since I started this thread:
I'll attest to the inconsistency of el-cheapo blue tape. 3M is consistent because it has a "secret" coating that is designed to resist paint. Somehow this coating helps with the adhesion and release of plastic. I've only used Hong Kong kapton and it wouldn't hold at anything less that 110. I've tried two US brands of hairspray and they both work v
by
thedingwing
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Printing
Almost all adhesion issues are due to the surface coating. For ABS, make sure you're using KAPTON (polyamide) tape. PLA works on heated glass and blue painters tape. If one doesn't work, try the other. As far as bridging, do you have a cooling fan pointed at the piece?
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
I have, the support material is a water souluble plastic called PVA. I'm not sure how one would generate the g-code tho. As far as printing up-side-down: I don't see any benefit that outweighs the massive headache that it would cause.
BTW: your questions are rather off topic (OT). You'd get better replies if you post in the forum designated for printing questions
by
thedingwing
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California / Southern California RepRap Usergroup
Oy vey...
I couldn't find any blue tape in my house last night, so I gave regular masking tape a shot anyway. It works great, except it was extreamly hard to get the piece off the bed (although I finally managed it). I'll give blue tape a shot this evening, but I expect it to work much better, given its different coating.
Sublime: thank you, your tip greatly helped in my troubleshooting.
Sh
by
thedingwing
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Printing
I'll give that a shot. Do you know of regular masking tape works?
by
thedingwing
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Printing
I've tried printing with my bed at 60, 100, 110, and 115. And the extruder at 185, 190, and 200. I've tried ABS juice and clean glass. It's as if it sticks, but is pulled up when the extruder passes near previously printed areas. Anyone have any ideas?
by
thedingwing
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Printing
Works like a charm, thanks. After looking at the PCB traces, it looks like the pin labeled 5v only goes to the servo pins. This seems like a misnomer to me because hobby servos will accept anywhere from 4.7 to 6 volts (some even go up to 7.2v). Maybe this could be better labeled in future versions of the board.
by
thedingwing
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RAMPS Electronics
Does anyone have some instructions for hooking up the PS-ON pin? I'm trying to use the PS-ON pin on my RAMPS board, however I've run into an issue. When I flip the switch on my PSU, nothing happens. Its not until I "jumpstart" the system with USB power will the PSU stay on. I've hooked the green wire from my PSU to the PS-ON pin, and the purple VSB wire to the 5V pin next to the PS-ON pin, howeve
by
thedingwing
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RAMPS Electronics
The resistance is around 1.8 ohms according to my meter. This would put the current at around 6.6 amps.
by
thedingwing
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RAMPS Electronics
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