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Still surprised there are no videos. You guys have a prototype, right? Can we get at least one video of it moving, doing something? How much effort does it take to just fire it up and shoot a short video of the thing printing? It doesn't have to be fancy...
Surely you guys have some sample prints from testing. You did test the device right? Why not put up some pictures of those?
Truly this lack
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destroyer2012
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General
Well, anyway the different parts on the schematic are drawn to scale with each other, right? Is there a point to a schematic if that's not true? If you know the length of one of the other portions of the schematic, then do the circle stencil trick as suggested, and also measure the length of a line that is dimensioned.
You should be able to come up with a conversion factor and get a pretty accu
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destroyer2012
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I have found the support generated by KISSlicer to be quite effective. But you have to adjust the support flow rate to 70%, I do this manually using a python script. Support becomes quite effective but also fairly easy to remove due to low layer adhesion. Undersides of spherical surfaces still look a bit scrappy but better than not being able to print the part. Here's an example of a model I mad
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destroyer2012
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I made a mcwire bot and I used optical endstops. With the optical endstops you can move beyond the min endstop easily. In such a way I was able to home to a position above the bed, then print several millimeters below the z minimum. Teacup firmware allowed this; I think Marlin does too if you are using that.
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destroyer2012
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Thanks for posting the video; I'm still working on my code (a bit rusty with the python, heh heh). I'll post again as soon as I get some sort of result.
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destroyer2012
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General
I've printed a bunch of protein crystal structures on my ultimaker. Here's some links:
They are the "blob version" of the crystal structure rather than ribbons structure as you can tell. I've tried printing a ribbons structure but the result was too flimsy and I couldn't get it detached from the support structure. That doesn't mean it isn't doable just the two times I tried I wasn't success
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destroyer2012
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How about using original pictures instead of ripping images and videos off thingiverse and the reprap wiki with no attribution?
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destroyer2012
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I don't understand how the belts are tensioned using that system. I can see they are clamped but I hope you can understand that clamping still allows the belts to stretch and thus backlash will slowly return even if it is nonexistant when the printer is first assembled. Most 2d printers use some kind of spring or leaf to actually apply tension to their belts/cables which eliminates the problems c
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destroyer2012
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Sorry if I sounded overly negative, I just want to say that it is probably not the speed you set that matters but the speed that is acheived. The relevant statistic is where does the printer travel that fast and what does the part look like in those areas.
The reason why I suggest making a video is because we can see where the print head is and hear (by the stepper sound) how fast it's going. In
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destroyer2012
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dzach a lot of your problems appear hardware related. You should never have to fast forward extra filament when retracting; if you do it means you are losing some by leakage/oozage and that needs to be addressed in your hardware (print at lower temps, get a nozzle with a longer orifice). Also, it seems to me that you should aim for fixing big problems (gaps in the structure) before fixing small p
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destroyer2012
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I can agree that large moving mass is not a huge obstacle to reaching average performance (Heck, have you seen how slow the replicator is? And it prints pretty well) and direct drive is simpler in design and more established in the field. That said, I think a bowden drive, if done right, has a lot of potential. I have recently (not out of the box, mind) been able to get ooze-free prints at a pret
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destroyer2012
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I like the fact that the front is open, it seems to allow for the possibility of making parts bigger than the print envelope.
Other than that I am having trouble seeing how this is different from ultimaker. The gantry is the same, the z-axis is the same..
Do you think that mounting the extruder on the head doesn't undermine the idea of the moving gantry? The point of that is to minimize moving
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destroyer2012
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I think the solution to overhang problems is proper cooling. Just cool the plastic right after you extrude and it shouldnt have any curling problems. Crank up the fan full blast! We need a slicer that turns the fan on for overhangs, that's a feature missing in a lot of programs nowadays.
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destroyer2012
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Rotating the object under construction would not solve problems as seen in this image:
You can see that warping caused upper layers to delaminate. Nothing is a perfect solution to that problem, but I posit that a heated chamber is easier to make and more likely to work.
You talk about dissolvable support as if I am advocating using a specific product to make the support, and you are assuming i
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destroyer2012
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I think a better solution to warping is printing in a heated chamber. If the plastic all stays warm until the print is done then there are very few warping forces put on the part. I wouldn't want to be forced to design all parts with a solid middle layer for the flipping mechanism to fit on...
Being able to print in any direction though would be pretty cool, although I think the main problem tha
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destroyer2012
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according to this the melting temperature is ~310C and glass transition is at ~127C, so pretty close to your "mold temperature". Thats really hot so I would say, probably we can't print with this using a PTFE/PEEK heater barrel design. With an all steel or a glass heater barrel it is possible I think. But if we can print with this then we might as well print with nylon. Both materials seem prett
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destroyer2012
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mcmaster carr is the best source.
they even have metric if you scroll to the bottom!
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destroyer2012
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That said I still want to see a video of this bot working. I haven't even seen a shot of the real thing, just that CG rendering! Come on guys I know you have them!
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destroyer2012
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crispy wrote:
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>Heated chambers are not as simple as you make them out to be.
I never said it was simple, and I certainly dont think that you have to enclose the entire printer. Besides certain people (nophead) HAVE enclosed the entire printer in a warm chamber (with printed parts) and still gotten good results. What we need is an evolution of
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destroyer2012
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Heated chamber.
We need this, we have had the capability to do this for a long time, in the firmware. Would you like to say goodbye to almost all warping, and make your heated platform more efficient (or obsolete??) I would.
Reprap with heated chamber will be the next big thing.
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destroyer2012
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Awesome! This is the sort of analysis we need if reprap will ever get past the "hobby" stage. I don't know much about frequency analysis and virbational modes, but I am interested about any possible way to minimize the noise generated during printing (improve the "living room acceptability" factor).
I wonder if there are some sorts of cross bars we can print and attach to change the resonant fre
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destroyer2012
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General Mendel Topics
Why can't you just, home to a Z position above the build platform, then set your soft limits to be 1mm below the point (or however far your bed is)? I use this method even with mechanical switches and it seems to work fine (bending that leaf spring an extra 1mm doesn't really do anything as far as I can tell). I use Marlin, and I have the end stops only active during homing.
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destroyer2012
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Seems pretty cool, but where do you put the filament when you have the printer stuffed in your laptop bag? And what is your heated bed made out of? Is that a huge piece of FR4??!?
I feel like it needs some kind of solid outer casing or rounded corners at least. Those bolts sticking out are going to make it very difficult to carry around in a laptop bag. I mean yea, my laptop bag has padding, but
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destroyer2012
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My position is this: I don't see how your design improves on what has been done. What I see is a ploy to make money off people who will spring to buy a 3d printer that "looks good". Please, prove me wrong.
I agree I was being too harsh by not calling it a reprap. When I see those huge plexiglass panels though, my mind jumps immediately to "you made a 3d printer out of plexiglass". I don't think
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destroyer2012
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So it's 3mm filament, right?
I am somewhat surprised you think that having the filament on one side of the bowden tube matters so much because when you retract, doesn't the filament pull away from the tube wall anyway? I don't think my bowden tube is ever a half peanut shape, only very slightly when the head is in the homing position, otherwise it's curved properly as far as I know.
Just to k
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destroyer2012
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Thanks for providing all that information about your build parameters.
I am truly impressed, considering my ultimaker still makes lots of strings when printing anything (despite my best efforts at retraction). Mind if I ask a few more questions about your method?
What plastic are you using?
What temperature are you extruding at?
What does your extruder gear look like?
How long is your bowden
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destroyer2012
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Lucastar Wrote:
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> How about passive solar water heating for the bed?
> - a water channel matrix under/inside an ally
> table?
Well.. this heated bed issue is kind of the reason why the Gada prize is so hard. Also this is why people put their machines in turkey bags to conserve heat. Professional 3d printers have heated chambers, a
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destroyer2012
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You want to show off how cool reprap is.. by making a machine that is not a reprap? Besides dude, this already exists:
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destroyer2012
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Here are some pictures of the innards of the mojo, and in particular, the disposable print head. Courtesy of Bertho Boman, who took them at the Rapid 3D trade show in Atlanta, GA. Thanks Bertho!
This is what he had to say about it:
QuoteBertho Boman
Following the usual trend, “low-cost” printer and custom ink, this model has taken it a step further: A cartridge filament system interlocked
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destroyer2012
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It is interesting that they say producing granules ends up being more work than producing filament... considering that filament is more expensive than granules. That looks like a cool design but seems like those interior grooves would be pretty hard to machine. However, I do think the concept of wrapping the incoming filament around the drive gear to have more traction is a good idea and the fact
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destroyer2012
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
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