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Plastic Extruders, mostly - > http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Extruder
Re: 3D printing Filament - market survey NZ - 8 years ago
Triple dissappointment on the robotdigg filiament: 1 I forgot to actually look for filiament diameter on my roll of heliophilous filiament when ordering, it came as 3mm so I checked on the listing, no diameter shown!!(not a listed option) 2 I ordered 4 rolls of clear ABS 1.75 Pretty clear but one was supplied as 3mm ??wtf? 3 Two of the rolls of ABS have lots of bubbles entrapped in the filamentby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: 3D printing Filament - market survey NZ - 8 years ago
Quotewaitaki Hey Grael, I was completely flummoxed by your post until I realised you were quoting mpats post, line by line, then answering them - shame you didn't use highlighting cos' it was quite interesting. Anyway... Are you sure "model craft and hobbies" sells filament - I can't see any? I still source from China. I think Model Craft & Hobbies are a franchise. The wellington owner has bby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: 3D printing Filament - market survey NZ - 8 years ago
Quotewingmaster Hi Grael, QuoteGRael I have several Kg of ABS pellets and some ABS masterbatch colorant Where did you buy the granules? store.os3dp.comby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Cooling for printed part ..duct design idea's required - 8 years ago
It's popular in the 3D printing world to put small nozzles after axial fans but it's counterproductive. Better with an axial fan to keep most of the flow buw using a big nozzle. Centrifugal fans can deliver better loaded performance.by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Cheaper filament source? - 8 years ago
dx.com polymaker.com colorfab.com matterhackers.com taulman3d.com ninjaflex3d.com reprapworld.com Just some... I've found the dx.com stuff quite printable. Usually sits around 1.62-1.72mm diameter.by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: 3D printing Filament - market survey NZ - 8 years ago
Model Crafts & Hobbies in Victoria St Wellington sells it. On this subject though, I have a design I'm getting Shapeways to try to print in their bronze infused stainless steel product at the moment: Not sure how well it will hold up during the bronze infusion process, it may be a write off or I may yet be blown away with the quality, it's a risk. The plan though, is to have a one piece exby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Cooling for printed part ..duct design idea's required - 8 years ago
It's not a bad idea but mostly people use 40mm fans as far as I know. To be compact and fit around the hot end while properly cooling the extruadate usually requres an "expert system", (a very specific solution) or there would be less fan designs on there!by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: 3D printing Filament - market survey NZ - 8 years ago
What sort of printer do you have? Does it take after market filament? I have a heavily modified rostock. It can print 300mm high. I mostly print my own designs, check out Think I'm up to 38 different designs on thingiverse, some of the vases/solids have multiple shapes as well. It uses a direct drive bowden setup I designed recently which can use ninjaflex:` I only use 1.75 now as there are morby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Diamond hotend - 9 years ago
The diamond hot end heats really fast due to it's low thermal mass. I used one successfully for ages on my rostock after I designed this as a proper fan cooled holder for it to also cool the PLA I changed though because the ceramic glue on the assembly made changing the nozzle a very risky process. I now use a pretty standard heaterblock as sold by dx.com or robotdigg or geetech etc. My last orby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: oozing and stringing - 9 years ago
I've had some intermittant extrusion consistency issues. Typically representing as banding in my vase prints. Found my thermistor had come adrift from the hot end under my cooling shroud(fixed now), but also, watching temperatures, they vary considerably (over around 6 deg C) in a cycle during printing that matches my banding on the vases. So I'm about to run the PID tuning algorithm and modifyby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reeltoreel Filament review - 9 years ago
Try a bit of diluted PVA wiped over the glass.by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reeltoreel Filament review - 9 years ago
Their 1.75mm filament has awesome tensile strength.Pulls out to around 3 x original length from memory, but will try to cut into fingers and overstretch before snapping. Still need to modify my bowden drive to use, I want to print one of my designs to see what happens when I print in NF and fill with water: The multifluted ones should bulge massively when loaded up with water! I did some 300mmby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reeltoreel Filament review - 9 years ago
Model crafts and hobbies in Wellington selling filament for a while now. PLA mostly but also ninjaflex. 3mm and 1.75mm. Ninja flex price per kg cheaper for the 3mm. Taulman selling a good variety, would be good if someone could import in quantity to NZ. their new 910 filament supposed to be high tensile, high impact strength and shrink rivaling t-glass. I've printed in t-glass (very low shrink, hby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: New I3 build in Wellington - 9 years ago
You got stung on the RAMPS at hobby king, I buy stuff there too, but if you went here: the much lower price includes free shipping. Delivery is usually about 3 weeks.by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Can anyone do a print or recommend a printing service - 9 years ago
The problem with PLA is that it shatters really easily. Also if you leave your multirotor in the car with windows sealed it will probably warp in the summer. In the winter, the PLA will be even more rigid and fragile. PLA will also be more sensitive to excessive heat on the motors, PLA softens at a much lower temperature than what motor wire insulation can handle.by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Can anyone do a print or recommend a printing service - 9 years ago
Colin, you probably want those in ABS or PETG or nylon or one of the other newer filaments. I can do in PLA but you need better impact resistance than PLA has. I have Nylon but I haven't done much with it yet, needs a lot of care drying out.by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Fliment swap and Test - 9 years ago
I'm in Whitby Porirua and I have about 90Meters of diamond age white impact modified PLA in 2.85mm. I never had much success printing with their impact modified stuff even slowing right down as suggested. I found interlayer lamination poor but others may have had better success. I have odds and ends of othe DiamondAge 2.8mm in various colours but I may just build a filament chopper and re-extrudeby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 9 years ago
Quotebobc Basically, Stratasys have patented heated tubes. (The "thin-wall" qualifier is meaningless, all tubes have thin walls). It is a totally bogus patent, and I expect it to be ruled invalid in the Afinia case. Instead of working around bogus patents, we should be getting rid of this stupid patent system. Absolutely agree. Very few patents actually meet the "novelty" requirements and mosby grael - General
Re: recycle PLA , Nylon, ABS - 9 years ago
I'm keen but it's not on my high priority list at the moment. I'd be looking at using peltier effect with something like this: to cool the raw plastic bits and then smash them through some sort of grate/small holes with a stored energy device. (wiki an industrial guilotine for an example) Not sure how low you'd need temperature to get nylon brittle though. Also, you'd need to filter the outputby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reeltoreel Filament review - 9 years ago
Interesting... not much choice in colour, but nice to be able to get 1.75mm locally at currently competative rates. I don't see any nylon there yet though... I'm working on a struder, May pay the local plastic factory a visit during my holidays. Currently looking at getting a stiff bristled tooth brush to joggle the pellets away from the part where the auger bit shears against the last of the entby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: endstop problems - 9 years ago
Recheck your endstop plugs on the ramp board. From memory, they go into column positions 2,4,6 just left of a yellow plug. Check that one of the contacts used on each switch must be C for common, and the other must be NO or NC for normally open/normally closed. Your Z is corrected in firmware now? I'm guessing your X and Y end stops are plugged in the wrong places. Fix labels on and take a pictuby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prints too small - 9 years ago
Quoteclogs51 I'm back to that horrible grating noise when I home all axes though. I looked hard at the x drive pulley,and it's not actually moving when it gets to the endstop,just sits there graunching away for 3-4 seconds. The Y axis goes even longer. To add insult to injury,it won't print again now.Rats!I'll probably have to reset the z-endstop in config.h again,because m119 now shows both z mby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: filament source in new zealand - 9 years ago
3mm filament: most places but not our local Diamondage. They use 2.85mm. 1.75mm. Good pricing most places, but buy it from diamond age and you pay almost as much for length as for their 2.85mm filament! 1.75mm filament is available from lots and lots of places in all sorts and colours of plastics. Advantages of 1.75/2.85/3mm filaments: higher diameter= slightly better volumetric extrusion accuraby grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: New I3 build in Wellington - 9 years ago
I get my threaded hardware from coastal fastners. They supply trade, so supply them with a ready to go list.by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: PLA Flex off trade me .. trail - 9 years ago
Without popping a thermocouple sensor in the same heat envelope as your hot end and independantly verifying your temperature is acurate....by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Black Verbatim filament - my experience and settings - 9 years ago
Verbatim is a manufacturer. What's the plastic?by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Hobbyist PLA Filament - Known problems? - 9 years ago
You can also clothespeg a bit of cloth to the filament with a drop or two of vegetable oil. Keeps dust out and makes extrude that much more reliable after a retract or pause. Won't cure badly designed extruders though.by grael - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: reprap Marlin/Sprinter gcode printer originated responses. - 10 years ago
"pre calculate" Not perchlorate!by grael - Developers
Re: reprap Marlin/Sprinter gcode printer originated responses. - 10 years ago
Hi Dave, I haven't tried that hardware. At the moment I can print some cad shapes but anything with a lot of corners or curves tends to lead to an extruder jam as the head stalls too long (mS) at each floating point calculation. Stm32f103 doesn't have the maths co processor and the half precision floating point directive for ATM brings up an error, won't compile. So I think it's doing full preciby grael - Developers
Re: Is there a good way to determine nozzle size? - 10 years ago
I'm not so sure that accurate nozzle size is very important. Knowing the diameter of the filament being driven into the nozzle and the rate at which it is driven are absolutely critical though because they determine the volume. If the nozzle is too wide then it will attempt to overlap the previous lines, too narrow and you will potentially get some snaking of the extrudate. Volume MUST match thouby grael - General