NewPerfection It's just a matter of having a good rigid machine, that is properly levelled. The thing with hairspray and hot-glass really does stick brilliantly, I also think that a lot of the reason for prints unsticking from glass is that people touch the beds with their hands when removing parts, transferring natural skin greases (eww) to the bed. With auto-ejection this goes away. I reallyby SanjayM - General
So when visiting the huge CNC shop where they build my hotends I saw an awesome auto-feed lathe that you load up with bar stock, it turns a workpiece, parts it off whereupon it falls into a little chute, and it then pops out the back of the lathe into a little basket for collection. The guy running the machine shop says he just fills the machine, presses "go" and goes home for the night! Well, Iby SanjayM - General
Brass is much more thermally conductive than steel and it is much easier to work with, which is very important when drilling tiny 0.4mm holes.by SanjayM - Plastic Extruder Working Group
JollyGrimReaper I have my own little CNC lathe, Boxford 250 - but it's just used for prototyping/development/customising hotends for certain peoples needs. We then outsource to a UK based CNC shop for manufacture of all the production units. Vegasloki We the gap between the heatsink and the hotside is only a touch over 2mm in the E3Dv4, with the thermal gradient this means that in practice the aby SanjayM - General
nophead Yeah, I am thinking of dropping the "fits on normal 50mm spaced carriage mountings" because really people are going to need a custom carriage for this multi-hotend anyway, you just can't fit 3x nozzles and blocks through the hole in the middle of a normal carriage. If people are going to have to use a new carriage, I may as well go to 60-65mm which makes the entire design much nicer to laby SanjayM - General
Hey all. Sorry i'm not being massively active right now. My wisdom teeth are erupting and it's bloody awful. It feels like an animal digging out of my face. The ferrules are indeed to replace the need for soldering - put them around the thermistor legs and a stripped end of the green high-temp cabling and crush the crimp as hard as possible with needle nosed pliers or similar. (Or indeed a crimby SanjayM - General
SmartRoad Yup nozzles are up for preorder now on the site. Your proposed arrangement for having two extruders and a larger 40mm fan would almost certainly work just fine. Be sure that you get enough air hitting those bottom fins near the hot end of the nozzle. Hope to be coming out with a dual/triple/quad/hex modular upgradeable nozzle version in the next few months. Probably bowden only to begby SanjayM - General
Mickman Yep we really should get some sample print images up. For now you can look back through this thread - richrap has some particularly nice examples of good prints off well calibrated printers. Chris33 3.70mm is the actual measurement on currently shipping parts. Hendo, PolygonHell, Extin Still nothing arrived in the post yet?! Something may have gone wrong in my communications with gettinby SanjayM - General
Maddox & JollyGrimReaper Just to clear things up, the problems with jamming in some of the parts I shipped (E3D Nozzles) are absolutely a manufacturing defect, that is specifically confined to 1.75mm nozzles that were drilled with a single duff drill bit that wasn't replaced soon enough on the CNC. Paradoxically all the 3mm hotends have performed without issues. Having an ultra-short thermaby SanjayM - General
The area of the orifice (along with it's length) really governs extrusion speed in terms of volume/second. With a large nozzle being used to print large items fast you want large volumetric throughput. I get what you are saying about factors of throughput being a square (actually maybe more than a square law when considering extrusion orifice - nophead has some good blog-posts on this). Howeveby SanjayM - General
Remembering that aluminium oxidises quite readily and is infact always coated in a thin layer of oxide at all times that protects the aluminium below - perhaps what you are experiencing is the brittle oxide layer being removed by the pad, the aluminium below being exposed, oxidising, wearing, oxidising .. etc. Maybe this cycle could be prevented with some corrosion protection oil.by SanjayM - General
PolygonHell Cheers for the info - another thing to tick off the list. crispy1 Cheers for the heads up Thinkyhead 0.6mm nozzles are really good for printing quickly, especially useful for large objects in the ever-increasing build envelopes of delta-bots. The prints also come out very strong. Quite nice for fast prints of vase-type objects with a single wall too. In a multi-nozzle setup they couby SanjayM - General
Hi All, Been a bit absent on these parts for a while, sorry about that! Again, just piles and piles of orders that need filling and not enough time in the day to fill them! This is compounded by some rather exhausting "life-outside-of-reprap" matters that need to be dealt with. If you are emailing David and not getting a response please email me sanjay at e3d-online dot com or use the website fby SanjayM - General
The Beaglebone Black really is a compelling little platform! £30, Beastly Arm Cortex A8, 512MB Ram, has ethernet/hdmi/usb etc. But 3.3v - argh. It's not something that is a complete blocker. [3.3v MOSFETS exist and are fine for running the high current loads (Bed/Hotend) Pololu stepper driver is fine on 3.3v according to manufacturer. (Mung - this is the most popular stepper driver used forby SanjayM - General
Regarding Tubing: I have simply opted to test the tubing rather than speculate from datasheets. The PTFE really is much easier to push filament through. PTFE is also more compliant than PFA - less force needed to bend it. I have been unable to get the either the PTFE or the PFA to develop a kink/weak spot through repeated bending; I zip tied both to the X-Carriage of my mendel90 and a point of thby SanjayM - General
Awesome! Have been playing with UHMWPE tape as a cheap/dirty bearing surface. The new Taulman645 might be even more appropriate for this application too. How did you embed the IMGUR gallery? Sanjayby SanjayM - General
Interesting point alj_rprp. I will see what I can do to stress test that. Another thing is that PFA is a bit less compliant that PFA - which means moving the print-head needs more force. Negligible in 1.75mm systems, but actually a noticeable factor in 3mm tubes.by SanjayM - General
Hendo420 Second batch of metal just arrived today. Parts in post for Hendo and PolygonHell tomorrow I expect! Sal Really wouldn't be too scared about breaking it, its really quite strong, I can't break one with my fingers as much as I try (I'm no superman however). Spare parts should be getting on the site in about 2 weeks I expect. We are still waiting on some other bits, such as fans AGAIN. Bby SanjayM - General
How did you grind your fridge bits into processable pellets/bits. Really nice work by the way.by SanjayM - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Cambo3d Should be, yep! Hakalan Always appreciate the positive feedback! Glad you are liking it, those bridges are TIGHT and your owl looks stunning! Polygonhell Cheers for the additional info, all helps! Any idea what the diameters are? (See nopheads post) Nophead Interesting theory indeed. Our stainless break is drilled/reamed to 2mm ID. I have tried a really wide range of filaments in it, fby SanjayM - General
Cheers, for the info Hendo. I suppose the other thing to try is to take a leaf from Ezras book and try a bit of heatsink compound around the threads on the cold side of the break. That or foil like he suggests. It's worth a shot. Feel free to play around, nothing to lose as you will be getting replacements.by SanjayM - General
Oh dear... I am quite happy that companies like TL and E3D can post and collaborate in forums such as these. I think Ezra and I actually bumped into each other on IRC the day we both launched our parts for sale. (Big coincidence.) This isn't a sales thread, it's about discussing engineering aspects of my design, helping people out, and furthering 3D printing in general. That Ezra is here admittby SanjayM - General
Maddox: Agree wholly with your additions to the weight discussion. The only good way I can see to find out what kind of speed increases can be made is by using a good FEA sim. I might well get around to doing this. For just 1 extruder the extra complexity and cost of water cooling is a little high, for what isn't going to be a massive weight drop. There should be some, but I don't think it willby SanjayM - General
So! Apologies for my recent lack of replies and so on, I have been working completely flat out trying to work out what these issues that PolygonHell and Hendo420 are finding. My current conclusion/thinking is: There is some sort of defect at the break, around the constriction. This may be a bend or poor internal surface finish. Printing jams as the sticky filament in the small thermal transitby SanjayM - General
Hendo420 That absolutely sounds like faulty machined parts from us. Very sorry about that. Thank you so much for taking it apart and finding this out and reporting back. The moment we have new parts in I will post you out a replacement set of metal parts, as well as some free stuff to make up for your inconvenience. The version you receive will also be the slightly newer revision - lighter andby SanjayM - General
NewPerfection Thanks for the reassuring extra data-point! I assume 2mm retraction is on a bowden type system? Hendo420 Polygonhell Whatever happens, I will get you guys up and running, if that means I have to ship you new stuff then I absolutely will. I stand behind my stuff. When I say get you up and running, I mean properly running too, you shouldn't have to run these with any odd retractionby SanjayM - General
Polygonhell and Hendo420 Interesting results, I am printing PLA (1.75mm) at 185C, with 0.6mm retractions. No issues. We really have tested quite extensively for retraction jamming issues, I have never been able to make one jam in any circumstance other than turning off the fan and setting the temp too high so heat travels up to the heatsink. What filament diameter are you guys running? How haveby SanjayM - General
Instead of acetone you can use sodium hydroxide (Drain cleaner) to remove PLA support from ABS (The other way around), I have seen this done on BFB machines. The prints were awful, but the support removal process was quite functional. Sanjayby SanjayM - General
I have considered printing both PEEK and FEP (Which is a fluoropolymer like PTFE, but can be conventionally melt processed as a thermoplastic) My stumbling block in both respects is acquiring filament. I am going to invest in a filastruder or similar at some point once they are a little more prove - or make my own. Resin pellets are much more available than filament. As far as I know neither arby SanjayM - General
Frank_The_Rock (And others wanting to see/use our drawings) Sorry about the block link not working - we have just moved to an entirely new web-host and online selling platform, we might take a few days to iron out the kinks. I am afraid time sorting the tiny things like downloads has to come after shipping parts to people who has paid for products. I know this isn't perfect, but we are trying ouby SanjayM - General