Hendo420 Jamming seems odd, the internal profile should pass filament very smoothly along all areas. Where abouts along the hot-end is it sticking? We have tested super long retractions of 10mm, and everything in between as a torture test of sorts and all was flawless. My thoughts are that it could be a badly bulged piece of filament? What diameter filament are you running (True diameter measuredby SanjayM - General
Also looks like your print is getting too hot, and the layers are not having time to solidify fully before the next layer is printed. Try slowing down by 50% and or adding a fan. Small objects printed fast will tend to get hot and melty. Good luckby SanjayM - General
maddox Would certainly consider it, weight reduction would be the main motivation if understand you? In that case we do have to account for the moving mass of the tubing full of water and some other considerations: Using 30cm of 5mm ID tubing full of water, makes for about 6g of water in the pipes. Consider than we need an inflow and an outflow pipe that means 12g of water. Plus the weight of tby SanjayM - General
Hendo420 Yeah, it's really mystifying what goes on once packages hit the US border. USPS don't bother to update the tracking info at all in some cases once it gets to them, and they can take 5 or so days to get a package to even the most well infrastructured places. Shipping to INDIA is quicker, and India Post is a totally corrupt mess of an organisation. Shipping to Europe takes 72 hours in moby SanjayM - General
I've considered water cooling, and there is a really nice base of available parts and literature on it. The thing that gets to me is that no computer water cooling system is designed for repetitive flex/motion. I can see a coupler or hose working to failure - and failure in this case is likely catastrophic. The other point is that it is high cost, high complexity. We need to keep in mind that wby SanjayM - General
Hi all, So we are working as fast as possible to restock. We have now very nearly sold out of all versions/sizes. We are looking at around a 2-3 week time to more coming in. We have ordered larger batches this time around. We are also much more geared up and have systems in place that make packing and shipping vastly quicker compared to our first batch where we were just finding our way. We arby SanjayM - General
I once swapped out my conventional brass 0.4 mm nozzle for an M6 threaded welding nozzle, it had a 0.6mm orifice that worked great. The extra length gave a really long melt zone so I could extrude very quickly. I even drilled it out to 0.75 or so by just using a pin vise by hand. Both worked really well, if a little drippy. We were actually using these to print copious amounts of fixing blocks fby SanjayM - General
The issue with running a PTFE liner at 300 C is not an immediate mechanical one. But the fact that if PTFE is over 240 C it is going to be degrading chemically at that temperature. Eventually it will fail when being run at those tempsby SanjayM - General
I would be adverse to allowing the melt zone up past the thermal break. The junction between the sink and the break is not smooth and filament in a soft state will deform into the seam and jam. This is not a hypothesis but something I have investigated and experienced. The only viable way I can see to maintain both a sharp thermal transition and a longer melt zone (higher melt rate) is to elongatby SanjayM - General
ttsalo: Awesome photo! Glad you have it printing nicely. The lack of blobbing is a big plus factor that people don't consider when buying a hotend. We put a lot of time into making flow controllable and precise by engineering the nozzle orifice carefully and creating a super sharp thermal break that locks the location of the melt point.by SanjayM - General
Hi FlyingFreak, I designed/sell the e3d v4 hotend. I am quite confident that our design would eliminate all the leaking and reliability issues you are having, as well as being able to reach high temperatures happily - the SG2 has a PTFE liner inside that would fail around the 240C mark. Arcol make a good product, and he puts a lot of effort into his products. I haven't tried his latest hotend pby SanjayM - General
Maddox: We have a bowden-multi-struder in mind that uses a common heatsink, and could be very compact even with 4x nozzles. We can probably keep a full Quadstrusion setup well below £100 all in, including bowden tubes, electronics, couplers, basically everything you need. Watch this space.by SanjayM - General
Hi all, The full assembly manual is located here: Lots of lovely photos etc, but if there is anything you are unclear of just let me know and I can update/revise the manual to make things clearer. Lots of questions about the weight: The weight of all the metal parts is 45g combined. If you weigh everything at once including electronics, fan etc, it comes to 96g, but this includes 2 whole meterby SanjayM - General
Hi All, Been working flat out today getting these shipped and need to go to bed. Will reply to all comments/questions as soon as I can. Assembly manual is going up tomorrow. Thermistor is a pretty standard 100K EPCOS B57560G104F job. Demand has been way higher than anticipated, and we are a little swamped, but shipping everything very rapidly now. We are just waiting on fans which arrive onby SanjayM - General
This is really really awesome. I bet that think can really fly, HBot with a bowden extruder having very little moving mass. Are you worried about the pulleys wearing the UHMWPE braid? (I suppose UHMW is super wear resistant...) Would be interested in releasing the files on thingiverse? What belt-path did you use? CoreXY? Or convention H-Bot? Again, congratulations - this is an awesome printer,by SanjayM - General
Hendo420 - It uses a groovemount system that is nearly identical to a J-head (with the tiniest smidge more space for the screws as aluminium doesn't deform as much as PEEK in a JHead). You should be able to use any J-Head groovemount type extruder. What printer are you using? crispy1 There are a few reasons we went for a short thermal break - 1) First is that it confines the melt point/transiby SanjayM - General
Yep, its going up now on the downloads section of our site and thingiverse.by SanjayM - General
This post blurs the line a little between information and advertisement - I really don't want to spam, but I genuinely think this is of interest to most of you here and I will be posting information about design/engineering decisions and rationale for critique and for the benefit of others. Along with info and discussion about printing Polycarbonate and other high temperature plastics. After muby SanjayM - General
Double click and object on the plater or on the item list, and you get a window with info about that object. This window now has an extra tab for setting varying layer heights. Took me a while to find this too!by SanjayM - Slic3r
This is an awesome piece of work, really love the magnetic ball + PTFE bearing discs idea. This should make a really significant cost saving over commercial ball joints - and even have further advantages such as quick detachment etc. I also really love your magnetically detachable control panel - looks very reminiscent of 'pendants' used in CNC robotic arms and cranes etc. It is fascinating toby SanjayM - General
Hi uGen, Just so you know, the nozzle orifice is still 0.4mm, and all the drawings for every little detail and dimension are up on our site under the downloads tab. Cheers, Sanjay from e3d-onlineby SanjayM - General
Interesting, Have tried with a few glue sticks, some work, some don't! (Directly on glass, thin coat of glue - 60-70C) Pritt Stick Green extreme - didn't work. A generic school stick did however. Don't take this as gospel, I haven't tested very thoroughly. But it is very promising.by SanjayM - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Gary, that idea sounds interesting, but I can't quite visualise it. I have some idea of what you are getting at, but could you provide some really rough sketches to help me out? Crispy & PolygonHell your ideas are really interesting to me, and I have long been contemplating a T-Slot, spectra line/synchromesh, H-bot. Should have money next month for extrusion, I also have a CNC lathe at my dby SanjayM - Developers
Nobody said anything about the server running oBSD. Just that they might want to look at how oBSD fundraises to host their servers.by SanjayM - General
Hi Detlef, Using a centre drill is an interesting idea for creating that internal profile. I had considered doing something similar for our all-metal stainless insulated hot end nozzles in the brass nozzle portion by using gradually decreasing diameter drill bits, or cutting a custom reamer for the job. But I rejected both ideas due to the amount of labour. I have recently come into possessionby SanjayM - General
Hi Lodorenos, The 55 is just a provisional placeholder price for now on the site, we hope to get much lower than that, if you want to be a beta-tester of the design we can probably go even lower if you write a review on the forums with your feedback and thoughts, PM me if you are interested.by SanjayM - General
We produce an all metal hot-end that is soon to be on sale. We have taken it to 350C and the cooling is still happy, there is no PTFE/PEEK in the design so the theoretical temperatures it can reach are above what we are able to produce with a simple resistor heater, and should certainly be enough for any thermoplastic. The design is detailed here (Be sure to read on in the thread as the designby SanjayM - General
We are going to produce and sell kits, we should be able to keep prices low. Our site is just getting up and running, extruders will be in stock SOON! If there are any products you think we could/should offer, we are very open to suggestions/requests.by SanjayM - General
Hi idolcrasher, Yup, our first printer was a RRP Huxley, so we are very familiar with that design! We wanted to take that compact assembly, eliminate the PTFE and simplify manufacture. The RRP stainless barrier is extremely thin and small, turned from M5 stud stock, so we use a more makerbot style stainless barrier with a RRP cooling arrangement, all adapted to work under a conventional directby SanjayM - General
Hi Roland , We have indeed already filed flats onto the conical portion of the nozzle. You need a pair of needle nosed pliers to hold and twist the nozzle and something like an adjustable spanner for the heater-block. It's just a matter of adding some heat and twisting out the nozzle and replacing with another. We've mounted this hot end to a printer successfully with the printed coupler as pby SanjayM - General