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Re: ABS printing sample - 1 year ago

45-50C chamber usually works well for me.

Re: A big X carriage problem - 1 year ago

The pulse waveform from the controller can be distorted by the time it reaches the driver, especially if the cables are long. Also, in my experience, you can't really trust specs on Chinese made electronics, especially if they don't tell you how the testing was done, so the drivers may not perform exactly as specified.

Re: A big X carriage problem - 1 year ago

Shifting layers at 45/135 degree angle indicates that one of the motors is not keeping up with the input. Check cables and connectors between controller and drivers. Also, check jerk and acceleration settings- either or both can cause layer shifting if they are set too high. Is there a reason you're not using the drivers on the Duet board? You may need to tweak the timing parameters for the exter

Re: Z-Axis Resolution - 1 year ago

Re: Z-Axis Resolution - 1 year ago

We were talking about driving the motor in full steps, not the driver. Microsteps are what makes the motor run quietly. Driving the motor with full steps will be noisy. Interpolated or not, 256:1 is microstepping. It doesn't matter if the input to the driver is full steps, the motor is driven in microsteps which is specifically what we were talking about not using. Hey, why not add X0 and Y0 to

Re: Z-Axis Resolution - 1 year ago

Motors are only quiet if you use microstepping, Trinamic drivers will be as noisy as any other if you're driving the motor in full steps. Homing the Z axis at the end of a print is potentially disastrous. You might want to home X and Y to get the print away from the extruder, but leave Z where it is until after the print is removed from the bed. There's no need for a separate gcode file to home

Re: Z-Axis Resolution - 1 year ago

Correction: with 0.04 mm full step resolution, 0.1 mm layers doesn't work. Try 0.12 mm... If you drive the motor in full steps, yes, you'll always be on a full step multiple point, and you'll still need to specify layer thickness in full step multiples. There's a minor problem if the full steps don't exactly match up with the positions of the bed and nozzle for the first layer. For example, if

Re: Any clever technique to detect bowden problem before blowout? - 1 year ago

I've seen a ring of phosphor bronze(?) blades pushed down into some hot-ends, presumably to help grip the PTFE tube. They also have the little plastic piece at the entrance to the hot-end with the little lock ring. My printer has a very short Bowden tube (maybe 70 mm total length). I managed to get the extruder to push out the tube once or twice, but always from the extruder side, never the hot-e

Re: Z-Axis Resolution - 1 year ago

16:1 ustepping is used mostly to make the motor run "quietly". When you are printing, for maximum print quality, you usually want the layer thickness to be a multiple of the Z axis whole-step resolution. 0.0025 mm per ustep is the same as 0.04 mm per whole step. That means you want to print in layers that are multiples of 0.04 mm, so 0.1mm is OK, 0.2 mm is OK, but best not to print in 0.25 mm l

Re: Shapercube 2.0 build instructions - 1 year ago

The the wayback machine:

Re: Noisy power supply fan - 1 year ago

QuoteMKSA Quotethe_digital_dentist I'm out... Just when it starts to be funny ? I'm in the US. In the last 4 years I've had more than enough "humor" to last a lifetime.

Re: Noisy power supply fan - 1 year ago

I'm out...

Re: Any clever technique to detect bowden problem before blowout? - 1 year ago

You can try reducing motor current/torque so that it starts slipping instead of pushing the tube out. I'm not sure if that would have any effect on normal printing. The tube is most likely to be pushed out when there's a lot of resistance to the strong push from the motor. That can be low temperature for the filament and/or speed and/or layer thickness printed. Or use two filament motion sensors

Re: Noisy power supply fan - 1 year ago

I think fan noise is mostly from the air moving and/or the way the blades interact with the air, even in the cheapo fans.

Re: Removing 3M 468MP adhesive - 1 year ago

Don't stick the heater to glass. Glass has low thermal conductivity so the heat will be uneven and you'll have hot and cool spots that can make it hard to get prints to stick. The best thing anyone has come up with so far is cast aluminum tooling plate. It's flat and will spread the heat nicely. Thermal image, heater on glass: Thermal image, same heater on cast aluminum plate, 1/4" thick:

Re: Noisy power supply fan - 1 year ago

Sunon fans aren't the quietest fans in the world, but they're reliable. If you drop the speed too much the maglev bearings don't work right (that's the scuttlebutt).

Re: Noisy power supply fan - 1 year ago

QuoteDragonFire The most effective ways I've found to quieten a fan are;- 1) Paint all the surfaces to reduce drag. Be careful not to get any paint inside the fan. 2) Give it an overnight soak in WD40, drain, shake and dry thorouhly before plugging in. 1) What sort of magic paint is that? Which surfaces are you painting- the blade? the housing? 2) Did you know that WD40 isn't actually a lub

Re: Modified Ender 5 - Z Axis lowering at start of print - 1 year ago

As the bed goes down, the nozzle is going up. Your Z axis is inverted. The "top" is where the nozzle touches the bed. That's Z=0. The coordinates are always from the print's point of view.

Re: Removing 3M 468MP adhesive - 1 year ago

Using silicone to glue the heater down is a one-way trip. I don't think anything will make it let go once it sets. If you mean does heating it up get the 468MP to let go? Yes, but be careful, especially if it's a high powered heater. Turn on the power and heat it up, then kill the power, then try to peel the heater off the plate. Wear gloves so you don't burn your hands.

Re: Removing 3M 468MP adhesive - 1 year ago

Get a heater without the adhesive, and stick it to the bed plate with silicone.

Re: Removing 3M 468MP adhesive - 1 year ago

Paint stripper works.

Re: Use of 3D printed parts in printer - 1 year ago

Plastic, except PLA, is fine as long as you design the parts like they are made of plastic, not steel. Your picture looks like you've got it figured out. If you want to use metal but don't have a lot of tools, you can do a lot with rectangular aluminum tubing or L or C channel stock.

Re: Smoked Power Supply (kinda like smoked salmon; smelly) - 1 year ago

How much current are you pulling from that power supply, and how much is the supply rated for? Consider the current spec to be like the red line on the tachometer in your car. You wouldn't run the engine continuously at red line unless you didn't mind replacing the engine. Don't run your power supply at red line either, unless you don't mind replacing it. Replacing safety components in a power s

Re: Smoked Power Supply (kinda like smoked salmon; smelly) - 1 year ago

It was probably a cheapo "LED power supply" with little to no protection and no safety certifications. It's anyone's guess as to why it chose that particular moment to fail, but if you got 4 years out of it and it didn't burn your house down consider yourself lucky. The good news is that it's cheap and easy to replace it with a quality supply. Look for a MeanWell supply (not a fake meanwell suppl

Re: Strange problem with corexy machine - 1 year ago

It's really a good idea to set the origin up at the center of the bed as explained in the second link posted above. It simplifies working with different slicers and reduces some of the mental gymnastics when you're trying to understand problems..

Re: Strange problem with corexy machine - 1 year ago

Re: Help with designing a belt tensioner - 1 year ago

@drmaestro If you look at the shape of your proposed metal Z axis part it could easily be cut from a cheap piece of aluminum L stock. You might have to move a few parts around a little to make it work, but it isn't going to cost $400 to have someone mill it for you from a solid billet of aluminum. You don't need much more than a hack saw and drill to make it yourself.

Re: Need help configuring z-axis - 1 year ago

The bed is at Z=0 when it is touching the extruder nozzle. The coordinate system is viewed from the point of view of the print. When the bed is moving down, to the print it looks like the nozzle is moving up, so the bed is moving in the positive Z direction when it is moving down.

Re: Mesh bed leveling skeptic - 1 year ago

Flat glass on an unflat bed will not heat evenly, so you may have problems with getting prints to stick. I am amazed at the effort people put in to understanding how to get autoleveling and flatness compensation working compared to the effort they put in to understanding how to build the printer in the first place. It is entirely possible to build a printer that does not require autoleveling or

Re: New printer design refinement: 45CoreXY - 1 year ago

What problem are you trying to solve?