Now, i know that electricity works with smoke. Because when smoke comes out, electricity will not work anymore. So, how do i put smoke back in the wires? It must have some compression ratio 'cause such a small wire has a lot of smoke inside.by Veesta - RAMPS Electronics
Buy a set of drill bits and fix/trim holes after print is done. AFAIK, this is a common problem for holes. Squishy plastic tends to make them smaller. Not sure if there is a Slic3r setting to compensate it?by Veesta - Printing
Print support structures to support long bridges.by Veesta - Printing
10mm retraction? I use only 0.5mm and advance 0.1 when print starts after retract. There are some hairs in the print, but a quick burn from cigarette lighter will remove it without damaging the part itself. Use piezo lighter, NOT torch. The "click" will give you fast flame ON - OFF I dunno, Dexos2 in the barrel works for me. I have now removed the sponge-thingy, because apparently Motor oil stayby Veesta - Printing
MK8 should work. I have one too. PLA is bitch. When you print PLA, you need to keep it flowing constantly. Otherwise it will melt and expand in the nozzle and jam it. I had a practice to pull out PLA filament every time print ended and use a 1,5mm brass wire (flat end) to push all that melted filament out from the nozzle. i had to, because it was not possible to start print again after nozzle cby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesiddharta Hi all having some problems calibrating an Anet A8 with RAMPS 1.4 electronics and Repetier 0.92 firmware. Mounted on the RAMPS board are 4x DRV8825 with Vref adjusted to half of the stepper current (0.9A). The steppers are 1.8deg 0,34 Nm models, from a manufacturer named "High Efficiency Motors". 1) I have all jumpers in place under the stepper drivers, which I understand wouldby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoten8bot I have printed for thousands of hours with PLA, without ever adding a drop of oil or other lubricant to my system. It doesn't seem like something a well-made system would need. You don't use lubricants for your bearings or threaded rods? My "system" is not well made. It is a wood frame Prusa i3 Rework. (I've upgraded the Z threaded rod to have support at top, so the weight is not aby Veesta - Printing
Well, WD-40 works with 0.1 layers. However, Dexos2 produces more gloss than WD-40.by Veesta - Printing
Also might want to check firmware, that you enabled the "discount LCD" and not "full graphics discount LCD"by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
I might have posted in the wrong area. Maybe move this thread to printing issues: ??by Veesta - Printing
I've had this problem and it was caused by shitty polyfuses on RAMPS board. Those two in the red box get really hot and trip. Needs a cooling fan or replace with blade fuse.by Veesta - Printing
Hi there, I was just printing PLA with oil and got rid of some stupid jams. I used GM Dexos2 (5W-30) and was able to print with 0.1 layers without jamming. However, i noticed 5W-30 might be too thick, because my extruder was overflowing with oil. Had to cut strips from dishcloth and wick the excess oil away during print. So, maybe something thinner then? Is WD-40 or silicone spray good forby Veesta - Printing
Quotesiddharta One question, with the print fan wired to D9, should it come on as soon as the board is powered on and run continuously? As this is happening and I'm not certain if it's normal, as it's driven by one of the MOSFETs that has its gate driven by the Arduino Mega D9 pin and I understand D9 is designed for a second extruder. Yes, this is correct. This fan should be powered all the time.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi there, Question is in the topic tittle. I have MK8 direct drive extruder and this mechanism can be converted to bowden feeder. So, would it be a waste of time to try bowden feed extruder at some point?by Veesta - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Might be a wiring issue. Replace/repair your extruder wire connectors.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Reprap calculator says 5120 for 1:1 gear ratio and 1.25 pitch. Good starting point for fine tuning? Did you get a different result?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Estonia. If you are looking a printer similar to the original Prusa i3 design, I'd recommend a P3steel design. You can buy these from EU without stupid taxes. Around 50-100€ with printed parts. The original Prusa i3 is not really that good frame. Get a full laser cut steel frame and work your way form there.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
I made a simple cooler from aluminum. Attach two rods to make a "T", drill 3mm holes for 40mm fans and 6mm hole for barrel. Bend the fan holder 90 degree and slightly bend the whole thing upward when it comes out from the extruder edges. See images: "seems to work Ok"by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Firmware should have setting which way the home is and whether your endstop is MIN or MAX. Are you really sure the motor polarity has not changed? It might also be a problem with a connector, but usually the motor just changes direction randomly.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Frame = frame, so you want it sturdy. You can use pretty much any extruder you like, but maybe need to play with the X endstop location or glue a stick to the carriage that triggers your endstop. (I used and glued a 4mm drill, because MK8 extruder/motor did not reach the endstop) Also you might need to build some adapter to X-carriage screw holes, because they are not standard between extruders.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks Ok, for starting point. QuoteParalaX Finally, my questions: - The Bom is missing the thermistor. What can I use? I saw there was a smd 1206 room in the heatbed 100K NTC thermistor, like this kit: It goes to the hole at the center of the bed. Those SMD's are for LED and its resistor. Quote- Compared to the original design, I used a E3D v6 Lite hotend and a MK3 bed, instead of the originaby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Because the hardware has some tolerance. For example, step angle might be reported being 1.8°, but step accuracy is +/- 5% So the real step angle is something between 1.71 - 1.89° I'm guessing your real step angle is above 1.8°, so you need less steps/mmby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Make sure the Arduino IDE is the ONLY ONE using your board. Ie, If you open and connect Pronterface, arduino IDE will fail.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have RAMPS with those brown thin fuses? They need to be cooled or they might overheat and cut power to bed or nozzle. You might even want to replace them with standard blade fuses.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteimwhoim54 Hello All (again) It Seems I have the steppers working now (from the computer) but I can't seem to find out how to setup a 12864 display to work on the printer. Right now, getting a white screen and the rotary switch/button does nothing at all. Any ideas where/how I set this up? Thanks! Don W. That's because 12864, ie the full graphics display will fry the 5V regulator on your Aby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
You might want to get more heat blocks and thermistors too, because the screws might be really tight after several hours of cooling and heating. Maybe even tubes and nozzles and just change the whole assembly at once. Then you might want to make connectors for thermistor and heat cartridge near the hot end, so you don't have to run wires all the way to the electronics every time..by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
With Slic3r, default setting is to home all axis and start heating the bed. After bed is warm, it will lift Z axis (nozzle) about 5mm and starts to heat nozzle. (G1 Z5 F5000) (So you can use tweezer to remove that goo that is oozing out from the hot nozzle) When nozzle is ready and warm, it will come down to the first layer, which looks like you have set to 0.4 This is why the Slic3r wants 200%by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotePerryrussell Shouldn't the lcd show 0 c for temp if they are unplugged? ERR: mintemp That should display if thermistors are not connected. Room temperature, if connected properly. You might have bad RAMPS. Maybe soldering or something. 4988 will work. just get some heat sinks and 2X40mm fans to cool the whole RAMPS board. Those two brown poly fuses will trip and kill your print unless thby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Also, with this frame, don't forget your rear 10mm rod needs to be longer than the standard instructions say, because it is attached to the wooden supports. This will hopefully make the frame sturdier.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Details are everything. Frame for Prusa i3 is not the same as frame for Prusa i3 Rework. If this was sold as Rework frame, then the seller made a mistake. If you build with plywood, you will eventually see that the plywood itself warps. I have a plywood Y-carriage and it is difficult to level since all the corners are at the different heights. In fact, i had to remove two zip ties from the endsby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants