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Plastic Extruders, mostly - > http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Extruder
Re: Printrbot LC+ Wobble - 13 years ago
You can put a pile of bricks, books, or some other objects that stack well on either side to arrest any side to side movement. You can print slower. There are a few stiffening add-ons on thingiverse.by jcabrer - General
Re: RepSnapper Starting Point - 13 years ago
As nostalgic as I am about RepSnapper, I would advise you to move on to Repetier, or Pronterface. As for the plastic oozing out before getting to the start position, you can either turn on SKIRT in Skeinforge, to give a little extra time to re-prime the nozzle, or you can disable RAFT (one possible cause), BOTTOM (another). If the plastic in question in ABS, I would recommend a new hot end. Thby jcabrer - General
Re: prusa kit off reprap store need help - 13 years ago
OK. If you want help, there needs to be more info. We give you something to try, you try it, get back to us with the results, we give you the next thing to try. Obviously the forum is not the best way to do this. Have you been on the IRC channel? If not, it's not that hard to get started. You can click here to bring up the applet Pick your nickname Say hello State your problem If you waby jcabrer - General
Re: RAMBo with LCD and click encoder? - 13 years ago
I'm assuming RAMbo is the RAMPS spinoff from Ultimachine? I haven't been keeping up, but if this is the case, you can look at two alternatives that I am familiar with. The first is the Adafruit RGB LCD Shield. It does not have a click rotary encoder, but it does have five buttons, and an LCD display with 2x16 characters. It uses the i2c protocol for all of its communications, so only +5, GND,by jcabrer - General
Re: Mendel hot-end: heatshrink on the thermistor? - 13 years ago
HEAT SHRINK (just making sure we stay on the correct topic ) over the glass bead helps to protect the bead itself. Not just any heat shrink will do. It should be high temperature PTFE heat shrink. The thermistor lead wires should also be insulated to prevent them from shorting on the heater block, and to each other.by jcabrer - General
Re: Elegant Bed Design/Build 
- 13 years ago
Just say no to the plywood and springs. Both of these contribute to unleveled bed problems. If you are going to use a two tier bed where the bottom tier rides on the smooth rods of the y-axis, and the heated bed is installed above, use some ferrules as spacers between the two tiers, and screw the two together. If you are going to use a heated bed, be sure to insulate the bottom of the bed agaiby jcabrer - General
Re: overnight print - 13 years ago
1. Keep the area around your printer free of clutter. Especially flamables (duh!) 2. Invest in a smoke detector, and fire extinguisher. 3. Keep the extinguisher accessible, but not too close to that which might catch fire. 4. Sleep under the table.by jcabrer - General
Re: ABS Crumbling - 14 years ago
You can throw a towel over the printer to get about 60Caround the part, just from the heat of the bed. If your parts are thin walled, then increase the fill to 0.4. The width over thickness ratio needs to be increased also. Try another color of ABS if available. Some colors are just not that great for printing.by jcabrer - General
Re: Sanguinololu v1.3b - 14 years ago
Sniper4395 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hey guys, > > Since my last post I've tried using > Sanguino-0023r3 instead of Sanguino-0023r4 with > Arduino 0023 and now I'm getting what looks like a > more common error. > > avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 > avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, > expect=0x14, resby jcabrer - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: From Raft to Beach - 14 years ago
That is a good suggestion. I have used this in the past, and it does work sometimesby jcabrer - Skeinforge
Re: Axis barely moving when using Skeinforge, ok with slic3r - 14 years ago
Start with the basic stuff configured 1. Enable all of the following: Alteration, Carve, Chamber (If you have a heated bed), Comb, Dimension, Export, Fill, Home, Inset, Preface, Skirt, Speed, Temperature 2. Optionally, enable Bottom, Cool, Jitter, Multiply, and Raft, if you need those. 3. Your problem is likely in Dimention not being enabled, or SPEED being set incorrectly. For Dimension:by jcabrer - Skeinforge
From Raft to Beach - 14 years ago
An idea came to me while trying to add an anchoring disk to a corner of a part that always peels up. Since my print bed is level, I have never really needed RAFT, but I can see a BEACH being usefull at keeping those corners pinned down, It might be implemented as a modified skirt that extends out from the part edge. Cutting away a couple of layers should be easier than trying to pull away a raby jcabrer - Skeinforge
Re: Placement of Multiple Overlapping STLs - 14 years ago
Yeah, all those things are options. I was hoping for an easy way to do it without bringing another app into the mix. I suppose OpenSCAD makes the most sense. Maybe Raft can be re-made to be more of a "Beach". In other words, the beach surrounds the object instead of the object floating above it. A one or two layer beach would be easier to remove than a raft too.by jcabrer - Repetier
Re: Repetier Host V0.74 Feed Rate Flow Rate Ignored? - 14 years ago
You were right in suggsting that I might be running outdated firmware. I guess I have been neglecting my RepRap for a while now. Thanks.by jcabrer - Repetier
Placement of Multiple Overlapping STLs - 14 years ago
A while back, I was printing a large part in ABS, and was having a really hard time preventing the corners from curling up. My solution came in the form of some 0.6mm thick disks, about 24mm in diameter. I added these in my model, to the corners as anchors, or mini-rafts, if you want to think of them that way. Now I'm printing Greg's Hinged Extruders. I've always had some lifting on the frontby jcabrer - Repetier
Repetier Host V0.74 Feed Rate Flow Rate Ignored? - 14 years ago
Just getting around to trying V0.74. I'm noticing that moving the sliders for Feedrate and Flowrate do not seem to have any effect on the printer during a job. Is there something that might be limiting my speed?by jcabrer - Repetier
Re: avrdude error with sprinter - 14 years ago
Configure your serial port baud rate to 38400. On windows, do this in the device manager. Also, edit the boards.txt file in the sanguinololu hardware directory, and change the upload baudrate there as well.by jcabrer - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: How to get Marlin file from Sanguinou - 14 years ago
If your marlin firmware makes use of the EEPROM storage, you can read most of your calibration values from there. Repetier host has a readout in the configuration menuby jcabrer - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Printing Issues | Nozzle Dragging - 14 years ago
If you are printing in pla, you need to blow a fan on the print, or the heat buildup will cause the layers to rise.by jcabrer - General
Re: ABS curl in corners? - 14 years ago
In addition to what akhlut has mentioned, sparse infill and multiple perimeters are good. In many cases where you have corners peeling up, you can add a thin (0..3-0.6mm) disc underneath, and this will help to anchor the part.by jcabrer - General
Re: Strange stepping issue - 14 years ago
The step signals are generated by the microprocessor, so USB communications would not be a likely culprit, unless you are using Win7 64-Bit. You can evaluate your machines tendency to skip steps by loading each axis up with some weight, and observing how it runs. On the y axis you can stack books or magazines until it stalls. If the problem is too little current, or binding, it will turn up riby jcabrer - General
Re: Anyone in the North Orange County Area of California? - 14 years ago
Hi Greg, I'm in Fullerton. Is that north enough?by jcabrer - General
Re: Blankets for Heated Beds? - 14 years ago
Sometimes, I throw a beach towel over the whole machine while printing. The air temperature reaches about 65 degrees C when the bed is running at 110 deg. Cby jcabrer - General
Re: Aggravating (Serial?) Issue - 14 years ago
Known causes of print freeze include: 1. Turning on appliances that draw lots of current, like microwaves, ceiling fans, Air Con. 2. Windows 7 64-Bit. 3. Some Arduino MEGA 2560 R3. 4. USB power management enabled.by jcabrer - General
Re: question about what kind of thermistor to use - 14 years ago
I will second the honeywell and epcos. Various things can affect price. Mainly though, it depends on where you get them.by jcabrer - General
Re: trouble with self centering hole using drill press - 14 years ago
Yeah, you need to secure the wood block to the drill press base, and drill a hole using the same size bit you will be drilling the PTFE with. After drilling the hole, you will need to secure the bit in the hole facing up towards the chuck. A second hole from the side and a screw can help there. Once the bit is secured, put as muh of the ptfe rod as you can, into the chuck. Dont's overtightenby jcabrer - General
Re: Skeinforge help - 14 years ago
I don't know of any step-by-step guides for Skeinforge. To best understand it, you need to first be aware that many of the features in the tabs should always be disabled. Some just don't work, and others were intended to be crutches, or to try and solve problems that nobody really has anymor. The important ones are bottom, skirt, carve, fill, comb, speed, and possibly raft, if you have an unleby jcabrer - General
Re: How many RepRap's are 'out-there' - 14 years ago
Based on my calculations, there are three. Mine, yours, and the one that guy has that isn't working yetby jcabrer - General
Re: Threads - 14 years ago
Standard RepRap skeining software is not optimal for printing threads because it wants to organize the g-code into slices. It should be possible to hand-craft g-code that prints continuous spirals. I realise that the goal you probably have is to use everything as-is, so most of what I'm saying is not something a sane person would attempt, but it is possible to build a reprap on which the thirdby jcabrer - General