Andy, its been a while! My Chery Pi 3S is still running, but I was wondering if there's any carriage with belt tensioner? I don't like the squezzed screw systemby nka - Delta Machines
You might want to look at the BLTouch for the calibration, its a nice little packageby nka - Delta Machines
Amazing... what is the build volume ? Did you try "large" parts?by nka - CoreXY Machines
QuotePointy The new carriages work, and I have gained 30mm with the flipped design. I also seem to be able to print via USB now, thanks to a new cable. (should always try the obvious things first) The carriage is designed for Bosch Rexroth/Motedis aluminium extrusion, but could be tweaked for other makes. I am using the following fittings with mine.... M3 x25mm Socket Head Cap Screw & M3 Nby nka - Delta Machines
vreihen: Oh thanks, Ive signed for a 5xC Canada! The 5xC will be use on the new printer... Wish I could get a 4xC for the delta too... but no budget for now :p I will also need the panel for GLCD laterby nka - Delta Machines
very nice les! I may switch to the smootie someday!by nka - Delta Machines
Got the same problems with PLA? part seems to be well stick to the bed... but seems to have over/under extruded at some place. Is the extruder calibrated?by nka - Delta Machines
You're right... I was righting that I never had any wrap, but it's not true, so I erased my line to write those one. I did once a on part, unsticked from the bed on a corner... but only once!by nka - Delta Machines
fan or not, PLA should not wrap.by nka - Delta Machines
If print is bad, its not releated to the slicer, but more to the calibration. (Hard to tell without the part). If you think the calibration is good, then try to lower the speed to somewhere 40-50 mm/s with perimeter around 30 and travel at 60-70. If you don't get a nice print with that, there's a problems on the hardware and/or calibration.by nka - Delta Machines
wow, it look amazing! Nice color choice!by nka - Delta Machines
Andy, would you print directly on the aluminium? I got a cheap mirror right now I need to change cause it's not flat, I would get this even without using the heated but wish I could use glue like I do now.by nka - Delta Machines
I'm using an Raspberry Pi to control the printer, so I would just send the reversed commands to turn the relay on or off. My goal is to be able to close the PSU and shutdown the Raspberry Pi remotly. I might just use a USB port as a trigger to open/close the relay while turning the Raspberry on/off.by nka - RAMPS Electronics
Hum... that's what I want! I wish I could use the PS_ON PIN directly to drive a 5V relay to turn on/off 120v to the rampsby nka - RAMPS Electronics
Hello, I tried to search but could not find what I need. I wish I could use the PS_ON pin to switch a on a relay to power 120V to a non-ATX PSU. Is this possible? Is the PS_ON pin provide enough power for a relay? Is he always on? ?by nka - RAMPS Electronics
My metal wire holding the fishline also broke on me. I changed them to use some old cooper paper clip I had. Working pretty fine for now !by nka - Delta Machines
hum... jumper should have been included with the kit... well, you can still make the stepper move, you just need to change the number of step since your are doing only full step right now. But better get the jumper anyway!by nka - Delta Machines
you said that one was moving. You can try to connect the others stepper to this driver to see if they move. If it's the case, then, you know the cabling is okay. as Andy said, I do mine without the multimeter. I just turn them until the move freely. I apply a little pressure on them to see if they are okay, if yes, I move to the next one. If you push it too much, it will work, but they will alsoby nka - Delta Machines
woah, that's a chair with 3 legs ! What is not working? Did you ajust the pot on the stepper driver? You need to turn the screw. I found this video or this page (step 16)by nka - Delta Machines
As said on my above post. fine tuning using M666 ->by nka - Delta Machines
Your almost there. After that, you'll be able to print (if you're in a hurry), but you'll also need to do a calibration. As Andy said, trigger a "G30 A" and then fine tune with M666 ( )by nka - Delta Machines
There's no Baud Rate into the IDE. Sadly, my Arduino is far from my computer, so I can't show you EXACTLY, but I'll try to help you the most I can. If you open the Marlin.ino for the Arduino, look at the COM port that allow you to flash the firmware sucessfully (Board shoud also be set to Mega 2560) Then, open the tab "configuration.h" and make sure "Serial" is "0" and then look into the BAby nka - Delta Machines
make sure Arduino IDE is closed when you connect to the printer with the 3D Printer Software, as there can only be one connexion to the serial port at the same time. Make sure you are connected at the right baud rate (defined in the conf.h) or try to lower it to 19200.by nka - Delta Machines
It should work with the spring you have, just add more tension to it... You need to remove the arm, pull the cord a little and then "push" the arm into place... the spring will now be loaded with good amount of force.by nka - Delta Machines