Quotetmorris9if you remove the nozzle, wrap with pte or ptfe tape (I think that was the tape) and put the nozzle back on it stops the leaks, it's actually squeezing between the threads and coming out. Thanks for the info, I'll try it.by jkoljo - General
I have been using the TAZ 4 for a while. The overall quality is very good. The printer is incredibly easy to set up. I like the lead screws, large printing area and robustness of the frame. The printer is fairly quick, and it uses gentle acceleration settings. However, it is not without problems. The wire that goes to hot end heating element was broken, so I had to repair it. Repairing it was eaby jkoljo - General
The tolerance between screw and tube is not nearly good enough, the surface finish of the tube is often very wrong, the surface finish and geometry of the screw are really bad, the motor spins way too slowly and does not have enough torque, and the nozzle design is bad. The extruder is also often too short. Basically what you want is better motor and NC machined tube, nozzle and screw. A good moby jkoljo - General
My favorite extruder/x-carriage combo is the one designed by me The extruder can be also used with only direct drive for example. Then it allows easy future expansion.by jkoljo - General Mendel Topics
Second moment of area for a circular shape should be equal to the torsion constant J. Although I am more used to dealing with engineering in my native language. Anyway I want to find out how the axis resists torque, and what is the delta θ for given torque and length of axis.by jkoljo - General
Nice and interesting design. What's the second moment of area for the drive shaft?by jkoljo - General
I am also running AD595 thermocouple board and ATX PSU. Same problems with temperature, it rises about 20 degrees celsius when I enable motors. Heating the bed does not affect temperature, so I suspect there is some EMI going on with the signal wire, or the 5V reference line drops when the stepper drivers start consuming power. A better solution to AD595 would be something with digital output, suby jkoljo - Controllers
What exactly are you lookinh for? Some features such as linear gap fill will not show up in menus, they are just enabled by default.by jkoljo - Slic3r
I also use paper to shim my dual extruders. I use pieces of paper between i3's carriage and linear bushing, effectively tilting the extruder body a tiny amount.by jkoljo - Printing
Here is my design to address the issue: Build a basic i3 with my extruder design. Then just use longer smooth and threaded rods for the Y axis to get full 200x200 print area. The rods need to be at least 25 mm longer. Nothing else has to be modified. If you do not change the rods your print area will be 200x175 mm. You can calibrate the nozzle 2 relative height by adding paper strips between tby jkoljo - Reprappers
Flash new firmware. I have heard of firmware causing consistent drift. I use Marlin, so I can recommend it. You could also try replacing the driver that is driving the drifting axis.by jkoljo - Printing
Increase retraction speed and/or length. Do you use a bowden system?by jkoljo - Printing
Yeah, it is an axial thermistor. Put it through your hot end. Then cut the small PTFE tubing in half and insulate both ends of the thermistor with it, and then solder wires & add heat shrink. Polarity does not matter.by jkoljo - General Mendel Topics
Try a reamer.by jkoljo - General
It might also throw the maxtemp error from heatbed after switching the thermistors. So verify if the maxtemp error is still coming from T0. Maxtemp error basically comes from a short circuit, so measure the resistance between T0 measurement pins. If the resistance is near zero without the thermistor connected, there is probably a fault in your RAMPS board. edit: And you cannot use Pin 1. It is aby jkoljo - RAMPS Electronics
Humm, yeah, with a good extruder design and a lot of force it probably is better. But the systems I have seen have had quite a lot of problems with filament slipping or chewing. The hysteresis will be worse with 1.75 mm for sure. I would not say 1.75 mm is overall inferior, though.by jkoljo - General
Well, true, gears are not bad. I am using a geared extruder and 1.75 mm filament, and the extrusion accuracy is very good. My extruder stepper does not run too fast, or need additional cooling. The reliability is not much different with geared extruders, whereas with especially bowden fed systems the 1.75 mm stuff is a clear winner. Less stress with 3 mm? I have to disagree. As discussed earlierby jkoljo - General
How do you explain there being less stress to the motor with 3mm filament? Also, 1.75 mm filament will usually give you better volumetric extrusion accuracy. The diameter accuracy in both is usually about the same, but the area is calculated with a second power of radius.. I agree with Sanjay that keeping both models is good, because of the flexible filaments.by jkoljo - General
I think that's the point at the moment, creating a stable and bug free release. Slic3r v1.0.0 has not been released yet, and Sound has said that he will only fix bugs when going towards the final version.by jkoljo - Slic3r
Here is 1.0.0 RC2by jkoljo - Slic3r
I have been following the project for a while, great work I will buy one for sure. The processing power of my current Ramps 1.4 is simply not enough.by jkoljo - Controllers
Check how hot the cooling fins are after some printing. The cooling fins don't usually get hotter than 50c or so, even in the lowest part. Also try different filament, your current filament might be bad. By the way, I converted my E3D hot ends to liquid cooling. If somebody is interested, here is the thingiverse design link:by jkoljo - General
I think OP is going to cut the threads into aluminium. It will work for a while, but I have noticed that I have to change the nuts in my printer every half a year of intense printing. So when the threads wear out, it would be easier to change only the nut, not the whole part. So either use a captive nut or threaded insert.by jkoljo - Mechanics
A very good idea. And should not be too difficult to doby jkoljo - General
Try to print two of them at the same time. If the result is better, you are printing too fast (not allowing the layers cool enough).by jkoljo - Printing
I added a bowden type second extruder because if I would have added another geared extruder on the X axis, it would have added too much bulk and weight. Dissolvable support extrusion is a perfect usage for the second nozzle. You can look at the STL models to get an overview of the extruder. You have to think of many things when changing the design, but if it looks right after the mods are done,by jkoljo - General Mendel Topics
I designed a dual extusion capable extruder for E3D hot end and Prusa i3.by jkoljo - General
My extruder is just like that, and for the same reasons you mentioned. I will post it in Thingiverse now.. e: up now. Have fun!by jkoljo - General Mendel Topics
Well, the point is that our printers' steppers are not accurate to a microstep, only to half a step to be pessimistic. For example MendelMax produces the same ripples as other designs, and I would consider it quite rigid. I still think that the ripples are caused by magnetic backslash.by jkoljo - Mechanics
@nicholas.seward Yeah, good point, it does not automatically increase print quality. I have noticed significantly lower rippling with 0.9 degree steppers, though. That is why I consider it a good upgrade, especially when one is buying steppers, and has an option to go with 1.8 or 0.9 degree steppers By the way, I think that the steppers don't need to even actually resonate, stopping the stepperby jkoljo - Mechanics