Perhaps my glass is 0.05mm or more curved, but I do not have so bad problems or almost none. Some shop may have a "100%" straight stone table. I don't know about usual glass sellers, cutters. But a good provider from internet? This can be something other, because your flat print image does not looks so very awful. Hmmm. And do you use print cooler?by Plasteroid - Printing
Your Z-home endstop is not set correctly? It did not start first layer extruding against the bed?by Plasteroid - Printing
Hi I made few tests with the suggested open source software Regard3d (For Windows & Linux too): Quite easy. No messing with clouds and uploads.by Plasteroid - 3D Design tools
Why don't you believe that it is blocked if it is not extruding even when the filament is pushed by hand? Filament type? Too cold hot end? If it is ABS, heat to 250C and try to extrude, few times 5mm. If not still extruding, reverse the filament, snip the end of the filament and feed again. Luckily some metal chip garbage comes out when reversing and re-feeding the filament.by Plasteroid - Printing
Don't use the fan at the first 5 to ten layers. Here (Youtube) I have got success with small prints, ABS and a fan with duct. I turned the fan ( very faint ) on after few base layers: 3D Printed MakeHuman Characterby Plasteroid - Printing
I suppose that it is the tape you use on your bed? It looks like masking tape bubbling, curling... Perhaps I'm wrong?by Plasteroid - Printing
I don't have the enclosure, but the correct material for it is Polycarbonate ( -100... +120°C ) . No acrylic: Polysterene foam, well it's quite fragile material, but as a cheap emergency...perhaps. Polycarbonate price here about 50€ / $ 950 * 1250mm / 2mm.by Plasteroid - Printing
Have you fiddled with the layer height? Perhaps higher layer height with ABS than PLA helps ? 10°C change on hot end sounds quite a lot.by Plasteroid - Printing
I have never used ABS juice over Kapton tape. Just directly over the glass bad. It sticks very well. My bed temp between 105-108 Celsius. Perhaps you have too low hot end temp for the ABS? Once I got grease dropping from the extruder gears or X-bar over the print. If it just cracked and did not warp very badly, glue it with the ABS slurry, strong as printed.by Plasteroid - Printing
123D Catch seems to be free. Perhaps you have an Android phone. I have tried PC version and I did not get very good scan from the human head. But it was older version.by Plasteroid - 3D Design tools
Attach your .stls. I have round circles with Cura and Slic3r. Or almost... with 96 sides and something. Moving . stl back and forth between programs can reduce circle sides. Blender exported 32 side circle improted to Sketchup changed to 24 sides (STL). STL is never full circle...I think.by Plasteroid - Printing
I use very faint fan with the small tipped duct blowing to the print (ABS). Someone now says that not to use fan with ABS, but I haven't got problems with small parts. Small blow "freezes" the plastic and stops the curling. Not 100%, but it helps. Example: Now I have extended the tip with aluminum foil tape. There is something like: Flash Forge Cooling Fan Ductby Plasteroid - Printing
It's just not only the walls. Infill % and type affects more. Or are doing a hollow piece? PLA can melt or soften in sunlight. A 15cm x 5cm x 5cm ABS plastic bar with enough infill perhaps can bear 100lbs.. on not... Some info about plastics:by Plasteroid - Printing
Does your hot end ooze filament before it stops to z-home? But 2mm is quite a lot for that problem...by Plasteroid - Printing
Use SketchUp free or Pro. Intersect faces or Boolean operations. Use x10 or x100 scale to avoid problems. Not always 100% solid, but easy to use. Diggolike, Adobe illustrator? Not for 3D I think?by Plasteroid - 3D Design tools
264°C is something like for nylon. I use 108°C on my plate and my bed mosfet is very hot. Time to add a fan. 100+ hours of use and no problems , but surely it's more secure to add some ventilation. The stepper driver calibration can perhaps help to lower temps on them.by Plasteroid - Printing
I print 234°C white ABS, no enclosure, no problems. Do you have any other ABS brand filament to try? Perhaps your filament is mysterious scrap?by Plasteroid - Printing
Print better z-endstop. There are plenty of them. For i3 for example:by Plasteroid - Printing
Have you tried different filaments or just one brand (impurities)? Dust going to the hot end with the filament can cause blobs.by Plasteroid - Printing
Are you sure that the hot end is not randomly flexing Y-direction? Or loose Z-direction? Or are the extruder parts straight? I haven't got problems with Marlin, well I don't have an inductive sensor.by Plasteroid - Printing
A little bit late my answer, but if you can find SketchUp 8 ? (free still I think): Stl export ok.by Plasteroid - 3D Design tools
Something is wrong with your acetone perhaps? Nail lacquer (almost acetone) has oil in it . My acetone layer over glass is quite hard to scratch. Or the filament has some strange ingredients. Clean the glass with the pure acetone and make better juice. Acetone is a very good oil remover.by Plasteroid - Printing
Check this: Prusa Titan It's near 40x40cm I think.by Plasteroid - Prusa i3 and variants
No link, no file?by Plasteroid - 3D Design tools
Have you tried adjusting the flow ratio? : "The only setting you need to change is extrusion ratio and nozzle diameter. Set nozzle diameter to 1mm (from what it was at 0.5mm) and then it will flow 4 times faster.... but you only need 2 times faster in reality. So adjust the extrusion ratio by 0.5 factor."by Plasteroid - General Mendel Topics
Is there option in Slic3r like in Cura plugin pause after x mm? Or do I have to split the object?by Plasteroid - Printing
I have used (Cura) 40mm/s perimeters and 60mm/s infill. Perhaps rising few degrees Celsius hot end temperature if going faster is good (with a big print)? Or so says Mr. Gain:by Plasteroid - Printing
No. I have only an on/off switch. I could put a potentiometer if I want to make a smooth start, but I don't have problems with my fan. It's not very powerfull. I switch it on usually after the raft layer if needed.by Plasteroid - Printing
I have only a normal funnel with the tip extented with aluminium tape. Add a potentiometer to control your fan speed manually. Cura slicer has fan settings: Fan full at height etc.by Plasteroid - Printing
Hmm. I use ABS juice and glass bed and I almost never have that warping, curling. But my bed is 105-110C. I use many times a faint ducted fan to blow to the part not to the nozzle. It stops curling "freezing it", but can make the part more fragile ( I have snap-fit parts that don't broke even made with the fan). I suppose you use ABS because your temp is 265C. I use 230-234C with ABS.by Plasteroid - Printing