lowering accell helped me. make sure your belts are really tight, of course. maybe try lowering the jerk rate if you haven't already. (jerk rate is in the Repetier EEPROM—as well as your firmware, of course)by kre8 - Printing
I've never had this problem before, but it looks like maybe the layers aren't adhering to the previous layer properly. Perhaps turning up your heat would help, I usually run PLA at 195, and I used to print at 200~205.by kre8 - Printing
have you tried calibrating your Z endstop? perhaps your Z zero is too lowby kre8 - Printing
It's because of your fan. If you mirror your setup and put a fan on the opposite side, your problem will go away.by kre8 - Printing
I'm printing small statues and they're not quite as high quality as I'd like them to be. They still have the characteristic horizontal striations of a 3D print, as well as the occasional small hole or imperfection. What tools, fillers, primers, etc. do you use for finishing prints? I have a Dremel with a few bits—not very many. I have sandpaper although it's hard to sand the details of a statueby kre8 - General
Just happened again, fourth time in a single print. New record! I check the print status and it says "running ..." it still gives me an ETA of 10m, despite not moving. I tried closing and opening the program and turning the printer off and on, but when I do that, Repetier crashes when I hit the connect button. I have to turn the computer off and on before I'm able to connect to the printer. Usiby kre8 - Repetier
I have a large object that I've printed several copies of, it takes about 5h to print, I've printed four of them so far. Sometimes, the print will complete seamlessly, but sometimes the print will just stop. Repetier won't crash or be frozen, I'll still be able to click buttons and navigate menus, I can pause and unpause the print, but nothing will happen. The bed, extruder, and fan will all stilby kre8 - Repetier
Well it seems I fixed it pretty simply.. I adjusted the hobbed-gear/bearing part so that it isn't clamping down on the PLA so hard and things seem to be running ok now.by kre8 - Printing
Pic of chewed up filament Pic of extruder & bowden My printer has an ~8' bowden on it. Recently I switched to a clear PLA, and it sticks to the bed great, but it seems to get eaten by the extruder's hobbed gear easier than other colors. The extruder is powerful, if the PLA gets jammed it won't lose it's grip or slip, which is good most of the time, as it allows me to extrude at high ratesby kre8 - Printing
having a fan pointed at the nozzle tip to cool the printed part would almost certainly make a substantial difference, although it may not solve your problem entirely. You can make a cone shaped duct out of paper and use any old 40 or 50mm fan. Even better would be a pair of centrifugal fans. Maybe try slowing the print down to see if you get better resultsby kre8 - Printing
So, a few weeks ago I ran into a problem, which I posted about in this forum, and I was given a workaround that allowed me to bypass the problem. The problem was that the print wouldn't get past the gcode line "M109 S220 ; wait for temperature to be reached", despite the extruder getting hot enough. So, easy fix, just remove that line from the gcode, and heat up the bed and extruder before startby kre8 - Repetier
People who have used 3dsmax, zbrush, and Blender, know that Blender is the best. You can import your scan into Blender, sculpt it in Blender, retopologize it in Blender (if you wish), and export an .stl from Blender. For it to be printable just make sure that it has no non-manifold vertices (ctrl+shift+alt+M in edit mode) and that all the normals are facing out.by kre8 - 3D Design tools
Can do it with Blenderby kre8 - 3D Design tools
If non-manifold vertices is the issue, you can import the STL into Blender and press Ctrl+Shift+Alt+M to select all non manifold vertices, then do a little bit of work to fix it up.by kre8 - Slic3r
Recently this problem appeared out of nowhere, and I think it's happening in Slic3r, because when I load old gcode files into Repetier, the problem disappears. The problem is: A few days ago, I went to print something, and after the bed and hotend were done heating, the printer just sat there motionless and wouldn't continue through the code: there was no movement. The eventual solution was toby kre8 - Slic3r
Assuming "active cooling fans" means fans that cool the thing you're printing: Plug them into D9 on the Arduino, if that's what you're using, and you can use some 40 or 50mm computer fans, or similarily sized centrifugal fans, then make some ducts out of paper. Yes, paper. you can mount them with stiff wire and tape, it will look like an arts & crafts project, it will work amazing, it will beby kre8 - General
Ok, well lets say your first layer is 0.4mm thick, then each layer after that is 0.2mm thick. Your first layer would be in the gcode as G1 Z0.400 F5000 (or some other value for F). Layer two would be G1 Z0.600, etc. So, with our theoretical thicknesses here, if we wanted to find layer 7 in the gcode we'd search for "Z1.6", and to add an extruder temp change to 180 we'd add the line "M104 S180". Dby kre8 - Slic3r
Under the Plater tab, when you have one of the objects on your plate selected, you can click Settings to choose specific settings for only that object. The thing is, it's pretty silly to try and print objects side-by-side at different temperatures, because the hotend would have to change temperatures four times every layer, the print would take forever, and the nozzle would drool like crazy as thby kre8 - Slic3r
I used to get something like that from the starting gcode "G1 Z5 F5000", where G means move, Z5 is the coordinate, and F5000 means lightspeed. I do not have hyperdrive capable thrusters on my threaded rods, and so, the mundane stepper motor would skip when it attempted F5000. I now have it set to "G1 Z0.35 F100" and I don't have the problem any longer. This, however, is a superficial solution, aby kre8 - Slic3r
I don't see any gaps, all I see is rectilinear infill. Perhaps you'd prefer concentric infill.by kre8 - Slic3r
So, I made this cool thing which doesn't work as great as I had hoped, but it's OK. I ordered a pair of centrifugal fans a few days back, so those should be here soon. I think they'll be easier to work with.by kre8 - Mechanics
"I honestly don't know what else to look for, I've changed so many things that I don't remember the settings had that worked. Any ideas what to look for will be appreciated." Lol story of my life. Maybe do an extruder steps calibration? Print at 195-200C depending on your room temperature, .5mm wide .2mm high. Could try changing as many of the slicer settings as possible back to their defaulby kre8 - Printing
No joke, go find some 40 or 50mm fans, and make some ducts for them out of paper and find a way to stick them onto your print head. The best ducts I've made have been out of paper, it's a fantastic material and is so easy to modify. Also, centrifugal fans seem to be popular, I ordered a pair of 50mm centrifugal fans off of Amazon a few days ago, so I'll be experimenting with those soon. Somethinby kre8 - Printing
I like 3dkarma's advice to print several at the same time, so that the layers have time to cool. Alternately you could find a 40~60mm fan, make a duct out of paper, and somehow rig it to your printer so that the recently extruded filament is getting some direct cooling. From my experience, calibration is a lengthy process. It took me about a month to get to a point where I was getting very reliaby kre8 - Printing
are you using a glass bed? if the corners are peeling off the glass bed, perhaps try adding a raft in your slicer, and as 3dkarma said, it looks like your Z axis was homed a little bit too high. If you're on a glass bed, make sure they are both very hot for the first layer. I do 70C and 220C, which is maybe overkill, but everything sticks great. I put down the first layer 0.35mm high and 1.0mm wby kre8 - Printing
Try: lowering your acceleration in the EEPROM or firmware tightening belts and belt clamps. make sure that your stepper motors are getting enough power (I'm not much of an engineer, so I don't know what these things are called, but you've got to adjust the power to each motor on the drivers or whatever that are on the pololu shield, or whatever shield you're using.) turn up the power until theyby kre8 - Printing
If I was to make something like that, I'd cut the plate out of acrylic with a laser cutter and then print the small pieces out of PLA. A laser cutter or a CNC machine is nearly as easy to build as a 3D printer. It's the same thing but with a laser or a router instead of a heated nozzle.by kre8 - Printing
Wow, ok, it worked exactly as you said. I reduced it to 100 lines and it still didn't work, so I removed the lines for waiting for the bed and the extruder and now it's printingby kre8 - Repetier
So I have a 95MB gcode file, 3.2 million lines. It loads into Repetier OK, sort of. But when I try to start the print, the bed gets to the right temp, then the extruder gets to the right temp, everything is ready, but the print doesn't start. It just sits there and drools PLA. Right now I'm breaking up the print into smaller pieces, as the thing I'm trying to print is actually five separate pieceby kre8 - Repetier
tl;dr, the question is, how do I set a speed limit on the z axis? There's the default starting gcode on Slic3r, "G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle", which results in horrible skipping, because F5000 means hyperdrive. So, I changed it to "G1 Z0.200 F100 ; lift nozzle" and that fixed the problem. Last night, I was printing something really huge, the biggest thing I've printed. About 2 hours in, the PLAby kre8 - Printing