The thermal runaway can be any of several things. Did you recently update your version of Marlin? If it looks like your temp is dropping to zero BEFORE the thermal runaway, then it could be your sensor coming loose or an intermittent wiring issue. If you are running one of the latest versions of Marlin, it can be pretty common for the temp range to be set to narrow, which will trigger a falsby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTrilithon Hello all, I want to setup auto leveling using the stock/factory endstop. My Folger Tech 2020 i3 is bone stock in hardware and software. I have read 60 - 70 posts in this thread and now I am more confused than ever. Is there a step-by-step wiki or post I can follow to get auto leveling up and running with what I stated above? Any help would be much appreciated! You can't use aby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote3333dddd Anybody have BLTouch sensor Marlin setup working properly on the 2020 i3 Folger Tech ? I have had it working for a while. I'd share mine, but I'm currently running a customized version of Marlin with some new beta features that I haven't finished or merged. Plus I have a lot of other hardware changes, so my config wouldn't just drop in for anyone else anyway. That's the reasoby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker tjnamtiw, I think you might be right. It is flashing while going up. I did not know the error would cause that. I have problems getting it to repeat the same problem enough to figure out what exactly it is doing. That also says voltage problem. Have a power strip on the bench behind the printer with two 2.1A USB plugs. That should be enough power. Have to try it later, connectedby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCreativeBR The wiki page says: "Please note that you will need to make some changes to your printer to get this working correctly/properly (unless you moved your X-endstop to the left side): - Move your X-endstop connection on your RAMPS board one set of pins over, to position 6 - In your host software, change X-endstop setting to MAX" So it seems that the X endstop to the left side is enoby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
If the endstop is on the left, it is at the min position. That's what makes it better, because, it marks x=0. Just put it in the min plug slot. You may have to set it in the firmware too. I can't remember the default in TheRippa's code.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCreativeBR Is it a good idea to use Rippa's Marlin in a first time build (moving X-endstop plug to position 6 and changing the X-Endstop settings MAX)? Let me explain: - I have that vanilla 2004 LCD and an inductive sensor to be installed in a near future (not in the first days or week i suppose) so i'm in doubt if i should flash a default Marlin and only when decide to install the sensor upby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril Thanks Bert, that's know crystal clear for me. Regarding the print fan, is it better to turn it on all along the print or only for certain slices? And is it ABS related only or will it be great for PLA as well. Still noob in 3D printing (and waiting for my kit to be delivered). I don't use a fan at all for ABS. For PLA I have it turn on full above the 3rrd layer. Ok, that is a bby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander QuoteCyril QuoteBert3D Marlin isn't designed to control the hot end fan, just an print cooling fan. I know the marlin code. I wrote some of the fixes in the latest release. Marlin doesn't actually make the decisions on the fan. The fan is controlled by the code produced by the slicer software. It would be a waste to use the single marlin/slicer controlled fan just to blow on tby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril QuoteBert3D Marlin isn't designed to control the hot end fan, just an print cooling fan. I know the marlin code. I wrote some of the fixes in the latest release. Marlin doesn't actually make the decisions on the fan. The fan is controlled by the code produced by the slicer software. It would be a waste to use the single marlin/slicer controlled fan just to blow on the heat sink forby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril QuoteBert3D The extruder fan should be always on, or you will get nozzle clogs from heat rising too high up the heat break tube towards the extruder. It cools the extruder and heat break. There are lots of things on thingiverse for attaching a second fan to blow on the extruded filament or the print itself. This is the one that you want controlled by Marlin. This doesn't sound righby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCyril From the manual to deal with the fan extruder: Attach the black wire the remaining – screw/socket on the power supply (the 6th from the side of the power supply closest to the back of the printer assembly). Note: This will cause the extruder fan to run constantly, which will reduce clogs and jams in the extruder. I think the first attempt was to plug the hot end fan to the D9 Connecby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA BLTouch Users: Has anyone else had an issue where the pin will remain retracted after a print is finished and the printer is turned off over night? I've had this happen several times and if I forget about pulling down on the pin the next G28 will crash the nozzle into the glass. I've cleaned the pin several times but I really assume the issue is inside the touch. Once I pull the piby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBoffster Has anyone used the 'change filament' option via the LCD? (Needs to be enabled in Marlin first) It moves the print head out of the way correctly and retracts the filament, but after I've swapped filaments and clicked the LCD button to continue it does another retract after moving back to the correct position. This results in several empty layers printing before the new filament rby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteFiddleback All three jumpers are installed on each set. My kit came with all the PCBs pre-installed, but then again, my hotend assembly came mounted upside-down on its motor, so it's probably good that I checked. I haven't checked vref yet, but hardware-wise, everything seems to be kosher. Just got off the horn with Folgertech, so perhaps I will be swapping in a new motor before long. Befby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL Oh and one more thing. Any suggestions for getting the old throat out of the heater block? I think the Hulk inserted mine along with the extruder tip which was darn near impossible to get off too. If the heat block heater and thermistor are still hooked up to the printer, heat it up to ABS temp, then use pliers. If that still doesn't work, while it the block is hot, put ice onby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGrouchoDuke Alright, can somebody give me some jam advice? I pulled apart my hot end to fix a jam/clog. The nozzle itself is clear, but the liner on the hot side of the heat break is sticking out quite a bit. Has anyone seen this before? I've been printing mostly PETG at 245C for the last couple months. Did that kill the stock hot end? Thanks for the help! Quotetjnamtiw For 6 months, Iby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quotemarc2912 QuoteBert3D Quotemarc2912 QuoteUltiFix Quotemarc2912 Quotejag My FolgerTech 2020 i3 printer was working great except for 2 issues. Prints were 4% short on the Z-axis, and on some prints it was clear that filament volume was too low. I fixed both my changing DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h Here's my question: Why does the firmware on the FolgerTech Googlby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 QuoteUltiFix Quotemarc2912 Quotejag My FolgerTech 2020 i3 printer was working great except for 2 issues. Prints were 4% short on the Z-axis, and on some prints it was clear that filament volume was too low. I fixed both my changing DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h Here's my question: Why does the firmware on the FolgerTech Google drive have these settings: {80,80,384by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger with a belt instead of the gears. If you don't want to try and build it from scratch this guy is selling it ready to go. I bought a different design from him and it was good. Doesn't that extruder design cut off some of the vertical print height? It would seem better to have the motor off to one side or to the front.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejhitesma Quotemarc2912 Quotejhitesma Does anyone know the size of Teflon/PTFE that's used for the liner in the threaded tube of the extruder? I keep having filament stick in mine so while cleaning the other day I gently pushed the teflon tube out so I could take a torch to the tube to clean PLA out of the threads without melting the PTFE. But when it came out it was obvious why I'm havingby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Im going to upgrade to the rippas firmware and setup autolevel, why do I need to move my x endstop to the left? EDIT: I upgraded and it's working fine on the right... After the upgrade the extruder is no longer extruding, did my extruder get reversed? EDIT: I think it's reversed, how do I fix that? You can reverse any of the stepper motors by taking the plug off the ramps boardby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been wondering what the advantages of a Bowden are on a Prusa i3 printer. The direct extruder setup doesn't seem like too much weight for this type of printer design. I could understand needing it on a Kossel type printer. Does the reduction in weight on the X axis really help enough to make it worth all the headaches that the Bowden introduces? For those that have switched, what has beeby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix QuoteBert3D Speaking in general, and not specifically about proximity sensors, the reason some kinds of sensors don't absolutely require the drop down, is that they use a "pull down" approach to the output. They allow the pull-up resistors on the Arduino (or whatever else they are plugged into) to provide the voltage to bring the input to a "1" or "on" status, with the output from tby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Speaking in general, and not specifically about proximity sensors, the reason some kinds of sensors don't absolutely require the drop down, is that they use a "pull down" approach to the output. They allow the pull-up resistors on the Arduino (or whatever else they are plugged into) to provide the voltage to bring the input to a "1" or "on" status, with the output from the sensor "floating" in aby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebstern Quotemsaeger Quotebstern All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something. I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for. My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brasby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Oozing around nozzle? Did you hot-tighten your nozzle and the heat break tube/barrel into the heater block? Don't assume the hot end comes assembled correctly. Mine wasn't, and I had similar problems. Before using the printer, you should heat up the hot end to around 240 and tighten the nozzle into the block, then tighten the heat break tube down firmly against it. This is easier to do if yoby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebuffcleb QuoteBert3D Quotebuffcleb Did anyone have to cut the length of there BLTouch probe? If I use the adjuster to bring the probe high enough to clear the bottom of the nozzle in the raise position it is not able to lift itself... I am running off a 5v adjustable power supply for the BLTouch. I adjusted it for 5.4 volts to see if that helps... it did not... I used this mount to mount thby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
BLTouch Tip If you are using a the default mk9 extruder and nozzle that folger is now shipping, the mount thingiverse BLTouch Mount may put it too low. To correct the problem, scale the mount 300% along the z axis in your slicer to make it taller. If you try to adjust the BLTouch to high, it will not be able to extend and retract properly, because the magnet will be too far above the coil. I'dby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebuffcleb Did anyone have to cut the length of there BLTouch probe? If I use the adjuster to bring the probe high enough to clear the bottom of the nozzle in the raise position it is not able to lift itself... I am running off a 5v adjustable power supply for the BLTouch. I adjusted it for 5.4 volts to see if that helps... it did not... I used this mount to mount the BLTouch : I order to gby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants