Quoteiceman62 I have a question maybe someone can help me with.... I hope. I have a FT Kossel 2020 and it prints....But when I load a file any file say from Thingiverse and then i slice it to print in Repetier-Host I have to go under - Object Placement Tab - and tell it to Scale to 1.1 or it will print to small. Question is is there something I can change in FW where I don't have to do this onby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Quotespiffcow So I think I'm going to go the magnet route.. I *really* hate cutting carbon fiber though, and was thinking of just getting some threaded steel balls and 6 M4 hardened steel threaded rods. I haven't really seen this done before though.. Does anyone know a reason it wouldn't work? They would be a lot heavier than carbon fiber rods, so that would have negative effects on the printby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
I managed to get my Kossel printing pretty well. Just have an issue with the bed not being level. It seems that one side is lower than the other, so eventually I'm going to added glass on top, but I need to countersink the screw holes and get new screws as well.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce @CapatinTim: Still not, no. And they didn't react to you AT effin ALL (on the forums), which I find quite weird. Or did I miss anything? Not a peep lol. I found a YouTube video by the creator and asked for help. He replied quickly, but said he's to busy to really help, and he gave me a quick suggestion, but it didn't workby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Has anyone used the openDACT auto calibration tool successfully with their Kossel? Every time I've attempted to use it to check heights, it does not stop moving to the bed and just grinds and scraps , always wanting to go down, never wanting to stop and think about what I want it to do.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce @paul: I tried to get the software running, but got no luck: I can install and start the software and connect to my printer. But I cannot do anything else without the software crashing (no G-Code sending, no calibration, no EEPROM, no nothing). I am on a Win10 machine with german localisation - but I also tried to switch to US localisation without any luck. Did you have any luck? Iby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta Here is another tool to auto-calibrate Delta with Repetier firmware: Please share your experience. I downloaded this tool and I can't get it to work. I set the probe type to "Z-Probe", connect to my printer, open the advanced tab, load in my EEPROM settings, make sure that I change the Plate diameter is correct, but all it does when I hit the "Check Heights" button is come crasby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Glad you fixed the issue. I cut the white wire off, effectively making it a 2 pin connector, with 1 void connection. A suggestion for when you begin to level and calibrate your printer. Due it manually first, and do that a few times. Then Use the probe. Better yet, print out Paul's probe holder. It makes the probe quite more accurate, as it's directly under the nozzle and helps dissipate the effeby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
No problem. The Z-probe still reports high if it is touching the aluminum? It's always High? If it's always High, then something must be wrong with the wiring.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
You should be plugging the probe into the +12V and the -12V on the PSU, not the ground from the power cord. Not sure if that makes a difference though. That's how I have it. The probe is hooked up in the correct spot. Try moving that GND connection to the -12V on the PSU and see if that solves your issue.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
You most likely didn't do anything that'd require extra work. For my resistors, I didn't have big enough heat shrink at the time, so it got a good dose of hot glue instead.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Can you take pictures of your probe wiring? Where it's connected to the board and power supply, as well as the resistors. When it comes to the thermistors, they both only occupy 2 pins. Hotend is the T0, and heated bed is the T1 pins.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
It would seem that the LCD screen was some how stopping it from connecting. Perhaps the LCD got a short or something, but upon slowly wiring everything back up, I realized that it would turn on and connect via usb as long as the LCD wasn't plugged in. QuoteLegrand I highly doubt that the filament falling off would cause a problem. Check the wires to make sure that all the screws are tight, bothby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
I think that at some point between last night and this morning, my Arduino got shorted. Worked fine last night, nothing this morning. No red flashing lights or anything. All I did was move it, and put on some feet dampeners. While I was putting the new feet on, the filament roll feel off from the top, but that shouldn't have done anything to the electronics while it was off, could it?by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Nevermind, I figured it out once I started playing around with it a bit more. Thank for your help, it is greatly appreciated!by Captain_Tim - 3D Design tools
Thanks for your reply. I'm following your steps, and I can't make any more than one copy. I set the angle to 18 degrees, and I try to set the Count to 20, but it fails. Fails on 10, fails on 5, fails on 3. The error is, "Failed to create Pattern"by Captain_Tim - 3D Design tools
I for the life of me can not figure out how I would add a grip around an object. I'm trying to make some screw caps for an old bed that has some poking out of the head board. My current design is hard to turn as my fingers keep slipping while trying to turn it. I don't have much grip on it. So I was just going to add some vertical ribs to the model, but idk how. And help/link to a guide? Thanks iby Captain_Tim - 3D Design tools
Thanks for the link, but that seller doesn't sell to Canada. I'll find a seller for here though, thank you very much kind sir. QuoteLegrand Yeah. As I figured. This is the guy I got the voltage regulaors from. 20 of them came in a padded envelope for $3.50 and I had them in a couple of days. AMS1117 on e-bayby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
So I swapped my Arduino Mega out, and the LCD displayed squares. I thought it was a contrast issue, tried turning the contrast pot on the back of the LCD, blew the voltage regulator on the arduino... back to the old one for now. I'll just leave my raspberry pi plugged into it for now I suppose.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
So just replacing the Arduino should fix that? Awesome, thanks. Luckily I have a spare around so I don't have to wait to get a new one. I'll give that a whirl and hopefully that'll solve my issue.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Is the 2004 LCD only supposed to work when the printer is plugged in via a USB? I can't get my LCD to turn on when it's just the 12V, but it'll turn on if the USB is connected, whether or not the PSU is on or not.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
I've wanted to add magnetic joints to my Kossel for a long time now. I'll be printing this out once I'm done printing some upgrades for my Tarantula, and once I'm done cleaning up the wiring and moving the RAMPS to an external housing, rather than having it right underneath the hotbedby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
The one on right is EXP1 I believe. If that doesn't work, it doesn't matter if the connection is backwards or not, so just swap the plugs from either end. Should work then.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Quotefredw I found the second pigtail.I had attached it to the fan for later. Now, I see the fan connects to the terminal block.All is well. Connecting the display board is way too easy. I found a three wire cable and I do not know what it is for. I attached a picture. I used that 3 wire connector to connect my Z-probe. All I did was remove one of the wires, and cut off one end so I could solderby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Thanks for the reply Paul. It's greatly appreciated. Quotepaul_delta In my 0.92.6configuration only hotend fan connected to RAMPS pin 9 (ORIG_FAN_PIN). This way firmware turns the fan only if hotend temperature greater than EXTRUDER_FAN_COOL_TEMP. You can re-configure your setup and run hotend fan directly from PSU (always On) and use 9 pin for filament fan. In this case you can use slicer commaby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Should the cooling fan for the prints be connected to the RAMPS board, or should it just be always on and connected to the PSU. If it should be connected to the RAMPS board, anyone know which pinit gets connected to for Paul's Repetier FW?by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Quotestephenrc Red is + Black is - Yellow is tachometer (not used if just powering the fan) That was I thought. When I touched the wires to the PSU terminal, it didn't power the fan on, perhaps I just didn't have good contact. Thanksby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
Do you guys know how to hook up a 3 pin fan? I tried to connect the wires to the PSU, but I didn't get anything. The wires are Red, Black, Yellow.by Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
It's used to update the EEPROM settings of the firmware. I noticed though that Craftware is still in beta, so they may add it in later on down the development road. QuoteLegrand I don't know much about Repetier at all as I can't get it to install on my computer, but what I've heard from reading the posts here is that it might get used for updating the firmware? If so, then this can't do that. Itby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines
That looks like some pretty good software. Why didn't you recommend it to those who use Repetier? If you don't mind me inquiring. QuoteLegrand Just as an FYI for those of you out there not running Repetier, I'm now using Craftware as my slicer/gcode engine.... It's pretty smexy and highly configurable, way better than pronterface. Allows for custom support placement, live update previews of chaby Captain_Tim - Delta Machines