Hmmm, more software to load / test. I was able to add an image, extruded to an existing STL. Used online site to convert TIF to SVG. Use 123Design to convert the SVG to an STL. Used Meshmixer to add the two STLs together into one. But I couldn't figure out how to cut or extrude this into the existing STL, just add it onto it. Might need to learn more about Meshmixer, or try one of the otheby EvilBetty - 3D Design tools
Quoterhmorrison I use OpenSCAD for this all the time! You can use shapeways to Turn your 2D design into a 3D print, or InkScape to trace the part and export as .dxf that can then be used by OpenSCAD. See "How to Trace an Image Using Inkscape" for how to do this. For example, see my business card holder on Thingiverse. I'll have to check that out. I had no problem turning the images into DXFby EvilBetty - 3D Design tools
Quotefrankvdh There's not a lot you can do with an STL file, unfortunately. FreeCAD does allow you to import an STL, convert it to a "shape", then to a "solid". Then you can do boolean operations to (e.g.) cut a recess or whatever. Beware that things get *very* slow when you do this. I expect (although I haven't actually tried) that FreeCAD has some way to import images. Probably vector imagesby EvilBetty - 3D Design tools
Yes. JPG and Illustrator source files, that I want to extrude an equal depth into a pre-existing STL file.by EvilBetty - 3D Design tools
I have several projects lined up where I'd like to "engrave" and existing vector image or jpg into an STL object. Basically making a few mm impression of that image into the surface of the 3D object. I've tried a couple different methods, using Sketchup, but it didn't workout at all. Anyone got a tried and tested method they would share? Thanks! -EBby EvilBetty - 3D Design tools
Quotespiffcow Very nice! And that was just with a new set of traxxas arms? Yes. My Folger Tech ball end / carbon tube arms were about 0.5mm off in total from each other, and were also "bent". Bent meaning the ball ends were not straight coming off the rods. Not sure if they were warped, or cross-threaded, so I though I'd give this a try. The one test left will be printing a couple full bed cby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce @EvilBetty: Niiiiice setup! Got a thingiverse link? Let us know the results!!! So far it looks like the new arms made a ton of difference. They're da'bomb! (whaahaa)by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta PS: it's OK to make couple of them in one shot, but two of them (side rods) must be done using single jig. Having two glued rods it's OK to put another 4 between them using long M3 rod for example. Update: I mean even if rods are not perpendicular to the M3 rods during gluing they still will be parallel to each other and equal, as well as M3 will be parallel too. Gluing all of thby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce @spiffcow: Nope, not yet. Chinese new year can be a b***ch. It will still take like a week or so. Honestly, I am thinking about using magnetic rings / steel balls instead of plain Traxxas joints when switching to the new rods. Not sure though. Would mean I got to print a lot of other stuff (new carriages, new effector etc.) and right now I am happy with the print quality... "neverby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
QuoteEvilBetty Quotedocpayce I did order a 290 mm rod set two weeks ago and will test them. For me the calculation was as following: 1) I have ok print quality in a 70 mm radius, good quality in 60 mm radius. But I would like to have ~ 100 mm radius. 2) My max printing height (at *full* radius) is appr. 240 mm. I dont need that, I am ok with 200 mm'ish. So: I have ~40 mm spare in z and want theby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian QuoteEvilBetty I just tinned mine first. I tinned everything since the soldering iron was already out for the other tasks. I used to do that, until a really experienced technician I was working with showed me why that's a bad idea. Solder creeps. Try this experiment: Unwrap some solder from your reel and bend it so that there's a foot or so angled above the desk, supporting itby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteLegrand Any ideas what happened here? The interface is still working. The hot end still heats up. The axis still move. As I said, all my printing has been in PLA so my bed temperature hasn't exceeded 65°C for weeks. I'm not sure where to start. I have a spare bed, but this is the wiring between the power supply and the board. I don't know what could be causing it to draw so muchby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce I did order a 290 mm rod set two weeks ago and will test them. For me the calculation was as following: 1) I have ok print quality in a 70 mm radius, good quality in 60 mm radius. But I would like to have ~ 100 mm radius. 2) My max printing height (at *full* radius) is appr. 240 mm. I dont need that, I am ok with 200 mm'ish. So: I have ~40 mm spare in z and want the radius to be ~4by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
QuoteKhalid EvilBetty, Can you post the configuration.h file This is for a Folger Tech Kossel 2020, FYI... (Whole Firmware Folder)by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotepaveldvor Hi, i see you have aluminium buildplate - is it any good, how does PLA and ABS stick on it? With PLA I run between 50-60 Deg C, ABS, 110 Deg C. I can't manage to get the bed any hotter in my 68 Deg F basement. For both I use a clean bed, with a layer of Elmer's purple glue stick while the bed is cold. I can usually get a few prints off of it before I wipe it down with a wet rby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
For those of you that have had your printer a while. What would you say is the ideal rod length? I'm remaking a set of rods with Traxxas ends, and I don't think the 240mm rods are long enough to reach the far ends of the bed accurately. Especially if using the offset probe.by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
I leave my printer unattended, starting prints and leaving for work and such. I can kill a print (could probably even kill heat lamps with Wink) remotely, but I don't have a cardboard / wood fire suppression system if something should go wrong, lol. Heat lamps would also add heat to components other than the bed and print. I tried out a projection IR heater for this once. Wasn't happy with tby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta PPS: if you need so hot bed because of ABS warping - i'd say that ambient 68F is too cold for ABS. You may try to build a wall around your printer to reduce airflow. Yeah I figured that. Enclosing the printer isn't really practical at the moment. If I consider that later, I'm going to build a complete raised wooden / plexi enclosure, similar to the base on a ROSTOCK MAX V2, toby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Does anyone here have any luck getting their bed above 110 deg C? I can get to 70 really quick. 110 after about 5-10 minutes with a room temp of about 68-70. But haven't yet been able to reach 115 deg C. I'm setup in the basement so I'm wondering if I'm fighting against my ambient room temp. (Rel humidity about 35%) -EBby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotespiffcow QuoteCaptain_Tim QuoteEvilBetty This might help you... REPRAP 101: CALIBRATING YOUR EXTRUDER Watching that video, he says that his ESteps are 900 by default, mine is 370. Now I know that just because his is 900 doesn't mean mine will be there, but 370 does seem very low. I would do a lot more testing, but this extruder gear will just not grip on the filament. It just grinds it up.by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
If you remove the PTFE tube from your extruder, does it feed fine then? If so, your either having problem loading your filament into the extruder (it's finicky), or not running a high enough temp for your PLA / ABS. To load it. Heat the extruder up to printing temp and remove the PTFE tube from the extruder. Run out or trim down to about 2" hanging out of the the end of the tube. (You want aby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
This might help you... REPRAP 101: CALIBRATING YOUR EXTRUDERby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
I had been playing width and extrusion multipliers at the time, trying to work out a first layer issue. I had gone to far. These are my current PLA settings.by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
This is one of my prints when I set the extrusion width too low...by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Between varying widths at the effector end (and seeing no change), and cutting up a soda can, I loaded up Rich Cattel's Marlin firmware and ran a "G30 A". Seems to have corrected for all the problems and I'm now printing a nice level and consistent first layer. I just tested with a large calibration model, and it looks good to go!by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
The thinnest M3 washers I can find are all 0.5mm in thickness. (Found some fancy anodized ones that are thinner, but cost prohibitive) What do you recommend as an alternative for shims that might go as low as 0.1mm?by EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian If you're interested in removing effector tilt then this might help: Make a piece up like this, and clamp it to your effector. The bottom should stay flat on the build plate as you move the effector around over the surface. You need to do this for each of the 3 pairs of diagonal rods. Space out either the effector end, or the carriage end depending on which way the tilt changes aby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 RepRapFirmware allows the probe point heights to be corrected to allow for variations in the probe trigger heights, and I think Repetier has some sort of height correction facility too; but AFAIK Marlin doesn't. So I think you need to remove the effector tilt, or move the probe closer to the nozzle to reduce the effect of tilt, or calibrate manually. Damn. Ok thanks I'll play around wiby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
QuoteMarkM92 Been trying to adjust the scale of my prints in the X and Y axis. My default steps are: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 100} with my Z-axis feed rate set at 2000 in Repetier. It prints to scale on the Z axis, but when I adjust the X and Y steps above it seems to throw all three axis off enough to where it won't print. I've seen others with a much higher Z step bby EvilBetty - Delta Machines
QuoteLegrand Is there much difference? Do you know what's been updated? I still use Marlin as I can't get the Repetier software to install on my machine. QuoteEvilBetty For anyone who is still using Marlin 1.0.0 from Folger Tech, here is a working Marlin 1.1.0 RC3 I updated to work with our printers. -EB You'd have to search for a revision history. But I know auto-level is substantially updby EvilBetty - Delta Machines