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Robots, children's blocks, wooden clocks, its all good! Here's my idea and here's the [[page]] on RepRap's wiki where we can log in and click "edit".
Re: German RepRap Protos V3 Firmware upates - Yesterday
That printer came out in 2015. In my distant past experience with Arduino stuff, updates to the Arduino IDE broke compatibility with old printer firmware. This was one of the things that motivated me to dump Arduino based controllers- I was tired of hunting for and trying to maintain old versions of the IDE so I could keep my printer running. You might be able to find a compatible version of theby the_digital_dentist - General
Re: Prnter wont print circles just ovals - 3 days ago
When you measure anything, there will be some error in the measurement. If you're measuring with a caliper, the error might be on the order of 0.1 mm depending on how you hold the caliper and the basic accuracy of the caliper itself. If you measure an actual 20mm object and there's 0.1 mm error, say 20.1 mm you'll correct for it by reducing steps/mm. That may get your 20mm object to read 20mm aftby the_digital_dentist - General
Re: Prnter wont print circles just ovals - 3 days ago
QuoteRoberts_Clif Your 3D Printer firmware steps need to be calibrated. On my 3D Printer it is this line "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 1600, 94.4962144 }" And calibrated below #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 79.7, 79.7, 1594, 94.4962144 } THis is what I used to calibrate steps 79.7 steps/mm should not be correct unless your X and Y axes have some sort of planetarby the_digital_dentist - General
Re: Possibly building 3D printer - seek a bit of advice ... - 9 days ago
It would be worth a try, but I wouldn't count on it working for the Z axis. Those things are made to be cheap, not to provide accurate or precise positioning. That means the gears are probably not very well made and you'll see artifacts that repeat in the Z axis of prints every time the worm completes a rotation. The Rino I linked has very high quality gears and very fine adjustment for backlashby the_digital_dentist - General New Machines Topics
Re: Possibly building 3D printer - seek a bit of advice ... - 18 days ago
Guitar tuners don't have bearings on either gear because they are made to be adjusted a little at a time and then sit. I would also not expect the quality of the gears to be very high which will result in repetitive artifacts in prints. There's no substitute for quality gears. I tried to make a Z axis worm gear drive using some cheap gears I bought via ali-express. It was awful.. The Rino drive uby the_digital_dentist - General New Machines Topics
Tool for sanding disc brake pads - 18 days ago
My bike has belt drive and a continuously variable transmission. It's been extremely reliable, except that it also has hydraulic disc brakes. Those have been not so reliable. In fact, those brakes alone have required more maintenance than any whole bike I've ever owned. The biggest problem with disc brakes is that they squeal a lot. When they squeal, they don't stop the bike very well. Fixing tby the_digital_dentist - Look what I made!
Re: Possibly building 3D printer - seek a bit of advice ... - 21 days ago
If you're interested in building a tall printer, a belt lifted z axis can be made to work easily and probably more cheaply than if you use screws to do the lifting. A worm gear drive with a 30:1 (or more) drive ratio will stop the bed or XY stage from dropping when power is cut. See my UMMD design linked in my sig, below. I used a Rino that costs about $118 via ebay, but someone at the makerspaceby the_digital_dentist - General New Machines Topics
Re: Possibly building 3D printer - seek a bit of advice ... - 22 days ago
50 hours and $500 to design and build a high temperature 3D printer? and you want quality? and you want to print "heavy" objects? and you don't know how to set up firmware? and you don't have access to materials? It's going to take more than 50 hours just to select the parts/materials.by the_digital_dentist - General New Machines Topics
Re: Quality Parts - 7 weeks ago
I've had Gates LL2MR09 belts in my printer for at least 4 years without and problems.by the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Re: Is this classed a rerap? - 7 weeks ago
I'd check steps/mm and microstep settings in the config files.by the_digital_dentist - General
Re: VFA (vertical fine artefacts) - 2 months ago
Have you seen this:by the_digital_dentist - Printing
Re: Z seam fix? - 2 months ago
Try the random seam location option instead of aligned. That will scatter the tiny bumps all over the print. Also you might try printing the outer perimeters first (default is inside first).by the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
Re: Building a CoreXY : machined or printed parts ? - 3 months ago
Belt lifted Z axis FTW! You did some mighty nice looking machining there!by the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Re: What to Build Next - 3 months ago
I built this using 3D printed parts for the corexy mechanism, with a Duet wifi controller board: More:by the_digital_dentist - General
Re: The fun of getting cheap parts from unreputable sources - 4 months ago
Buy cheap, buy twice!by the_digital_dentist - General
Re: Extra pulleys on a corexy - 4 months ago
Try this- move the extruder carriage manually in the Y direction. Now move it in the X direction. Do you feel the extra effort it takes to move it in X? When it moves in X, the belts have to move on two more pulleys than when it moves in the Y direction. Adding extra pulleys increases the load on the motors. That means that if you're trying to print as fast as the machine can go, and you add extrby the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
Re: Belt connection on toolhead - 4 months ago
The difference is where forces are applied and the resulting torques. But since the carriage is mounted on a rigid linear guide and beam, it's not going to affect the position in any way that matters, so... meh. If you really want to get picky about it, the tension on all the belts being on one side of the guide rail will be trying to force the rail to bend. I built a corexy sand table with 45 xby the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
Re: Z axsis - 4 months ago
The endstop (the electronic switch) goes at Z=0. If you're trying to square the X axis by running it up to the top of the Z axis, you don't want an endstop (the electrical switch) at the top of the Z axis. The endstop will stop it from moving when it is triggered. You want the X axis to hit the mechanical stops at both ends of the Z axis, so if the mechanical stops are at 200mm, send the extruderby the_digital_dentist - Printing
Re: Z axsis - 4 months ago
You have two steppers lifting the X axis. Every time you power up the machine, the motors jump. There's no guarantee that they will jump the same amount or the same direction, and they end up tilting the X axis. When it tilts far enough, the mechanism starts to bind and you lose steps. The fix is to readjust the X axis so it is perpendicular to the Z axis, relevel the bed, and in the future, releby the_digital_dentist - Printing
Re: Core ZXZY Build Log - 4 months ago
Does this have some not-immediately-obvious advantage over the more traditional implementation of a corexy mechanism with a separate Z axis? A couple years ago, while watching my very large corexy sand table mechanism running, I noticed some wobble in the X axis as the carriage moved in X. That got me suspecting something similar could happen in the corexy stage of my 3D printer so I set up a gaby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Re: Countering shrinkage in FDM prints with wavy lines - 4 months ago
Bulk shrinkage numbers don't directly apply to 3D printing in layers which is why you can design a part to be 100x100 mm and the print comes out 100x100 mm. If you laid down a line of molten plastic and the whole thing was molten and cooling all at once, it would shrink, but when we print the plastic comes out of a nozzle and solidifies/shrinks continuously just a few mm away behind the nozzle.by the_digital_dentist - Printing
Re: Surface uneven - 4 months ago
Looks like over extrusion and maybe bed too hot, to me.by the_digital_dentist - Printing
Re: Building a CoreXY : machined or printed parts ? - 5 months ago
Sometimes simpler is better.by the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Re: Building a CoreXY : machined or printed parts ? - 5 months ago
That seems like kind of an elaborate tensioner for an operation that will probably only be done one time...by the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Re: Dual Wire Gantry ? - 5 months ago
I don't think you're going to get XY positioning with a single motor.by the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Re: Cartesian X weight reduction? - 5 months ago
We had a hobbyist grade printer at the makerspace several years ago that had a folded sheet metal frame and used NEMA-14 motors for all three axes. It worked fine until the PLA printed parts failed. I can't recall the brand, but the CEO of the company used to stand on top of a printer while it was running to demonstrate the rigidity.by the_digital_dentist - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Re: Building a CoreXY : machined or printed parts ? - 5 months ago
One of the few milling operations I do is milling the ends of t-slot square so I can bolt it directly together. I used a 3 flute, 1/2" diameter tungsten carbide tool that has a 2" long cutting length so I can cut up to 50mm t-slot in a single pass. With a sharp tool taking only a little off at a time, I get almost mirror finish on the milled ends of the t-slot. The milled pieces bolt together squby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Re: Building a CoreXY : machined or printed parts ? - 5 months ago
Very nice. Your machining skills are far beyond my own- I take the easy way out and use rectangular tubing for motor and pulley mounts. That way I only have to mill the ends square (not really necessary, but nicer to look at) and drill holes accurately.by the_digital_dentist - Mechanics