Many thanks for suggesting that - that's rather brilliant and definitely a cheaper approach.by tgit23 - Mechanics
Here are some updates of the very first print. The biggest issue is the build platform isn't level at-all. I plan to use an inductive sensor to scan the build plate and adjust the Z-level constantly during print. Does anyone know of the best approach to this?? Does Z-probe leveling in marlin have an in-print adjustment code? ( I can look this up if needed ). May have to write some new code unlby tgit23 - Mechanics
Hi DLF , Ya, it's gotta build plate of 3ft x 3ft w/1-Meter rails. I'm glad you asked about stability - since I've been wondering myself. So I decided to put a box and ruler under the head and see just what I could pull out of it in the same position the pictures were taken in just for you question. The Y-Axis is far more stable than the X-Axis due to the Z-Axis's rails being wide-side w/the Yby tgit23 - Mechanics
Just some update pictures; For anyone interested or if something jumps out as a design flaw. So far; things are looking promising and might actually hit a budget around $300. I haven't update the github repository yet - didn't plan to until an operational status has been achieved. So if anyone is interested in the models; let me know and I'll update the repository for them.by tgit23 - Mechanics
I haven't seen them in any houses either - they're heavily used in factory automation.by tgit23 - Mechanics
lol... I'm well aware of what they are made for and used for.by tgit23 - Mechanics
Gotta link by chance of your project thus far? I've been very tempted by conduit tubing or steel pipe. I chose DIN-Rail just because of it's ability to hold a vertical fitting. How are you running a bearing across your tubes?by tgit23 - Mechanics
Thanks for the input - Trakyan & MKSA. Sounds like whether 1.75 or 3mm require some time to extrude - I guess a 3ft model will still be, "Print Time = 1Month, 7Days, 9Hours" lol.. I guess only time and experimentation will tell. I keep shopping for T-Slots but until recently the cheapest I could find was $3/ft and $4.31/ft seemed pretty average. Recently I found $2.76/ft buying 10-Metersby tgit23 - Mechanics
Thanks digital dentist - I think that gave me a good enough excuse to start out with the already installed stock 0.4mm nozzle for first test and then I'll try larger ones from there. I wonder if 3mm filament helps in the layer-start gap issue? Do mention it if you find a suitable solution .by tgit23 - Mechanics
Quoteo_lampe I'd start cheap and test the frames ability to print anything, before spending money on a great controller. Sounds about right - the projects intent from the beginning was cheap as possible although I don't think you're giving DIN rails quite enough strength credit; although I could be mistaken. Do you have some on hand or just estimating? I did go with a little heavier DIN than Iby tgit23 - Mechanics
From the little surfing on the subject - it looks like the 3-Z level is using Duex Wifi $160 and Duex5 expansion. Is that right? I see I can get the Standard Due for $10 out of china but I'm a little concerned about going to 3.3V. Will the AD4988 and DRV8825 work on 3.3V I/O? Or is the distinct drivers needed for that (TMC2660)? I fear I may have to go with a custom made interface board (Likby tgit23 - Mechanics
Thanks for that - I hadn't heard of RepRap Firmware until now. I'll certainly be looking into it. Things progress so fast - I haven't taken a look at firmware since 2013 when Marlin, Mega2560 and a RAMPS board was the only standard solution . I will be investigating newer solutions and their price tag as that point comes around. If you have the time perhaps you can tell me if the ARM core isby tgit23 - Mechanics
Awe, yes, thanks for that - I hadn't considered the loose slide that would occur during non-locked drive. I will add auto-level procedure to the homing cycle . Thanks!by tgit23 - Mechanics
Thanks so much for you input. It is much appreciated. I've been considering a X wire cross cabling approach to solidify the envelope. That indeed will most likely be added to the models unless first print shows decent stability on its own. Thanks for that input. These are the fine-pitch lead screws but the biggest factor for gearing had to do with not cutting the lead screws short for a direby tgit23 - Mechanics
Just now starting on it; for anyone interested the project is at: https://github.com/TGit-Tech/DIN-Rail-3D-Printer Here's an attached picture - If anyone has a brilliant idea to better the design; don't hesitate to replyby tgit23 - Mechanics
Just to add even more thought to the implementation. Couldn't help but wonder if acme lead screws are strong enough to act as a polished rod on the X-axis of a Prusa i3 Cartesian design. Top X-rod = A end-bearing attached; notched polished rod with a sliding Extruder gear as you've shown Bottom X-rod = A end-bearing attached; Acme lead screw Driving both the X-axis and Extruder through the samby tgit23 - Mechanics
Quoteboylucky Have you ever search about some replacement of the 28BYJ steppers? I tried couple of times some time ago but did not find anything reliable for similar price. Yep, I ran into the same thing. Although was also surprised to see NEMA 17(s) on Aliexpress going under $9/ea. of course that's still one for the price of (4) 28BYJ's. Have you ran across the "Twin Teeth" printer - They'vby tgit23 - Developers
That's awesome... As per @infiniteinquiry; Brings the thought of putting two acme lead screws next to each other - one to drive Y-Axis and one to drive the Extuder as the Worm gear. Think that's what he/she was after - course it would either have to slide as you've shown or compensate by firmware in order not to twist with Y-movement. Course there's also the idea of using a speedometer/rpm caby tgit23 - Mechanics
I do actually have a set sitting on the shelf. Which sprang the thought - which started the googling. We'll put it this way - in the vertical position it seems to be about as solid as a small polished rod although I don't have a 3-meter length for comparison; I'm unable to pull it down even 1/2" with about 100+ lbs. Although; Horizontally on a 3-meter stretch I'd approximate 20 to 30-lbs on ceby tgit23 - Mechanics
I've googled around for a 3d printer made of DIN-Rails and come up with nothing. I was rather surprised as from my figures they are about 1/3 the price; ~ 6-feet of DIN Rail $8 ~ 6-feet of T-Slot $22.80 ( Local Store ) I just wanted to check with community to see if there is some reason I'm over-looking as to why the DIN Rail doesn't seem to be more popular than the T-Slot. Is the DIN-Railby tgit23 - Mechanics
Whats changed if anything? Was it working properly then all the sudden stopped? Any new firmware uploaded? Is it a new model your trying to print but the others work? Any setting changes? My initial thought was if nothing has changed and the Y-belt isn't skipping; has the machine been running for hours at a time and works for a while once cooled down? I've had motor drivers worked to the poiby tgit23 - Look what I made!
Hi all, For anyone interested in giving it a go and providing feedback, issues, or just spread the word. YouTube Video at: Video Demonstration Project at: Which has links to assembly/wiring/BOMby tgit23 - Look what I made!
Just a quick picture of a variable nozzle size with two pinch discs.by tgit23 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hi boylucky - Good to hear from you. Thanks so much for posting those links; reviewing the build instructions which I hadn't taken the time to do before has sprouted some new ideas. Quoteless then 20$ That's amazing. I thought for sure those long bolts, belts, motors would've added up to more than that. I had ran into the ToyREP previously; looks like its cost is around $110 by the BOM I doby tgit23 - Developers
If its extruding too much. Lower your 'Filament' Flow %. Mines set at 80% which I'm assuming lowers the amount extruded. Also, was it working perfect before but then started to skip or is this issue from a new setup. If it was working perfect before was there any changes made? Changed Filament? I've got a crappy printer and got some crappy filament (many) so I've been fighting ext-ruder problby tgit23 - Firmware - Marlin
I couldn't help but wonder if a motor driven rotating disc with various nozzle-tip sizes wouldn't suffice for the same solution. Not sure if retraction would keep it clean enough during rotation - but if it was right on the end of the heat block it may stay hot enough to not even worry about it.by tgit23 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I'm not sure you'll want what I'll be working on. It'll be a cheaper unit than the 101hero I'm thinking of doing the same thing as this project I'm currently working on at (Cartesian fully printable) But putting it into a stewart platform as discussed here @ The thinking is to have a solid head on the top and a dangling stewart platform (bed); Although I guess it would be pretty easy to swiby tgit23 - Firmware - Marlin
For the time being I suppose I can just tie adjoining motors together and run the design as a delta. Many thanks for your response Roxy. You've been most helpful and appreciated by myself as I'm sure to many and thank you for all your work and dedication to this project. I'm sure it means a lot to everyone involved . Perhaps I can return some of this debt after making the idea a physical unitby tgit23 - Firmware - Marlin
Does or is there any Marlin (or other) open source firmware that supports a 6-axis Stewart platform for 3d printing and/or milling?by tgit23 - Firmware - Marlin
Like the very next video that played on youtube? Looks like also a commercial SCARA; They sure do have a LOT of coverage area It says its a SCARA but the second axis is driven by a timing belt on the end of the first - looks like ( Only two arms ). Looks almost exactly like a horizontally tipped robotic arm. I really like the SCARA design but can't say I don't wonder about the leverage reqby tgit23 - Developers