Quotedc42 The usual ones won't handle the nozzle temperature, but they are OK to use between the heatsink and the heat break. I thought so but couldn't remember the temps. Quotedc42 I don't think you need worry about the thermistor not being up to temperature. The hot end temperature changes relatively slowly, and most of the hot end thermistors we use have low thermal mass (so they will followby GRAYWOLF - General
While rebuilding my hotend following the burnout I started to think about heat transfer past (the stuff used to improve contact between processors and heat sinks. Would these paste stand up to the hotend temps and would they actually improve contact transfer. Current options are Silicon (normal cheep stuff), Aluminium (probably cause the least issues), Silver and copper past often used on cars.by GRAYWOLF - General
I have ordered one of these modues, when I get it up and running and tested (part time alarm engineer!) I will report back.by GRAYWOLF - General
It's times like this where facebooks like function would come in handy.by GRAYWOLF - General
They do but it relies on the temperature probe which and fallen out when the hot end was reassembled.by GRAYWOLF - General
Falling the dessicant packs (spelling escapes me) A bag of dried rice is also a very reliable and cheep alternative for removing water from the air.by GRAYWOLF - General
Quotemadmike8 There is a Safety section with some really good information. Fire is a real fear with these DIY printers, so be careful and watchful. I work in the fire industry so always have a fire extinguisher close to hand The cause was the sensor coming loose!by GRAYWOLF - General
That's it im done, I have had enough now. The new heater just set fire to the protective cover on the hotend. I can't be bothered now!by GRAYWOLF - General
Quotedarkechibi please bear with me. I bought this as a kit, the nozzle/extruder is using 1.75 PLA. If you can tell me how to determine the data I need to get I will do so. What is the um in the 200um measuring, how much smaller is possible? is any? Where can I get the smaller nozzle I need and how hard is it to make the changes. I am using slic3r for the processing of the model. I am willing tby GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
Quotechrisbob12 I fried my Bulldog fan by connecting it the wrong way round (despite reading that it needed to be connected red +ve etc durrr) I looked at the suggested replacements above and they look promising, however, RRD sell the replacement fan unit. The prices for the proposed substitutes are very similar to RRD, and the Mouser shipping cost is very similar to RRDs. I went with the RRD uby GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteJamesK Look on the bright side, your bed adhesion must be excellent! Just Kapton on glass QuoteEpop That's pretty awesome! Most would pull the part off the platform and you would end up with a rats nest. Yep... how your wires are routed is pretty important... especially around/on/connected to moving parts. Lol, did that last time the print head failed.by GRAYWOLF - General
Check all your settings in the arduino ide, check all your setting are correct in firmware and try uploading again. The good thing about arduino based printers is that its very hard to "Brick" themby GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
Just snapped the cables to my hater element afte they snagged on the object being printed! https://ajb2k3.wordpress.com/2015/07/12/printer-broke-again/by GRAYWOLF - General
Anything is possible! I'm building one using the freelss and raspberry pi as it seams to be the simplest electronics setup.by GRAYWOLF - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
QuoteHSBallina QuoteKurzaa As a safety precaution, you can't extrude filament unless your hotend is heated to at least 170 Celsius. It is a setting in the firmware. My guess is that there is a similar setting built into Ponterface in the event that your firmware doesn't support the feature. Not sure what the issue is in Repetier-Host. Did everything but extrusion work in Ponterface? I edited thby GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
Check your endstops are connected properly and that they are working correctly.by GRAYWOLF - Printing
Its not the printers that need the print fan, its the material. Abs does not because it causing problems, PLA does need the fan otherwise the layers wont join.by GRAYWOLF - General
I had wobble with my hot end moving in the mount. I put a shim between the hotend and extruder and the "Wobble stopped"by GRAYWOLF - Printing
Quoteelwood127 Mine melts in minutes. Same hereby GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
To upgrade the firmware you use the arduino IDE (Arduino.cc and not that other fake wannabe site) You should have 2 box's one for interface type and one for baud rate. have you tryed the changing the interface type? I have had my report that it was a modem once!by GRAYWOLF - General
Quotejbernardis Your message isn't clear here. It sounds like it's not the hot end overheating, but the motor. If it IS the motor, then it is overheating because you are overdriving it. This same thing happened to me; the motor overheated to the point where the small gear and the extruder body both deformed. Also, I couldn't touch the motor for more than a second or two. My solution was toby GRAYWOLF - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I've been using a BullDog XL with an E3Dv6 hot-end to print 1.75mm ABS daily for more than 6 months and have not had a single jam. I'm running the lite not the XL and I think the 0.3 is to blame!by GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteGRAYWOLF QuoteTFinleyosu Do you guys know if direct drive designs have issues with slippage or resolution? I'm curious is a direct drive design with a NEMA 17 will have enough torque (Ebay Example) I need to customize the mount for my extruder and a direct drive would simplify the design considerably or I could find an off the shelf option. My instincts are to avoid 3D printed gears in thiby GRAYWOLF - General
Well all the setting are as they should unless I'm missing something but something over heated and now the x-carriage has deformed.by GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteTFinleyosu Do you guys know if direct drive designs have issues with slippage or resolution? I'm curious is a direct drive design with a NEMA 17 will have enough torque (Ebay Example) I need to customize the mount for my extruder and a direct drive would simplify the design considerably or I could find an off the shelf option. My instincts are to avoid 3D printed gears in this area for relby GRAYWOLF - General
Before I swapped hotend and nozzle size I was printing at 0.3mm, Just cured my other issues and printed at 2.5 is it possible that my print split because the layers are too small?by GRAYWOLF - Printing
I'm (still) running a bulldog lite with a fan between the hotend and the motor but notice a problem that Im getting a clicking sound from the extruder and it seams to be slipping on the filament. The cura settings are set for a 0.4 mm nozzel with the exception of nozzle size, I've linked 2 screen shots. Am I missing a setting that is causing the extruder to overheat and skip?by GRAYWOLF - General
Solved it, Cura was configured, but printrun wasnt set up for the printer.by GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
After a week of wanting to smash my printer I have it up and running again but for one issue. Running Triffid hunters calibration test I am coming a cropper with the esteps calibration. The i'm running it with the hot end but the extruder is clicking away and only extruding 95 mm instead of 100 mm (or near enough), Is this down to the pully not having enough pressure on it or back pressure fromby GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants