The oven temperature is too low. I used 3 hours at 150 degrees C (302F) and it was very nice, smooth and transparent to print while undried it was like foam, milky and not transparent. Don't throw in the spool, it will melt and it may be difficult to extract the nylon. The nylon itself will stay very solid. Just cut off a piece you'll need (repetier host will display the estimated length) and bakby imqqmi - Printing
You can save the above gcode in a file and put it on the sd card. I don't know why you don't just add it to the start gcode in the slicer for every job. That would make it redundant in the menu. I don't know exactly but if you know a little about c coding I gues you can take these steps: - Add a menu entry, see the appropriate file and duplicate one item and make it point to your function - creatby imqqmi - Reprappers
Just break them down in single actions. G28 with an x y or z parameter homes the given axis only. G30 homes z at current xy position. G28 Z should also work if it's done within the time out period. You can find the gcode reference on reprap.org. G28 X G1 X100 G28 Y G1 Y100 G30 That should do the trick.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Silicon can take a temperature of 80-90 with no problems, beyond that passive cooling should be used, if that doesn't help enough active cooling (fan) should be used. A good rule of thumb is if you can touch it, it doesn't need to be cooled, if it's too hot to touch, it's above 60 degrees and needs cooling. If it's really hot it starts to smell, even smoke. Active cooling needed if it's already pby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
For sagging, a fan could help to fix the filament in place quicker. As for the top layer, also check if the extrusion width multiplier in the advanced tab is set to anything different for top infill layer. You could try matching it with the normal extrusion width.by imqqmi - Printing
You can enable safe homing: #define Z_SAFE_HOMING This will require you to home x and y first, and they must not time out or it will not home. Generally you can use G28 to home all axes at once. See comments in configuration.h.by imqqmi - Reprappers
My guess is that it's a SMD ferrite bead, connected in series with a power line, ie 5V. If you own a dvm, you could try to find out if it's connected to 5V (pin 1 on USB connector). The datasheet of the ft232rl chip recommends MI0805K400R-10, a 40Ohm impedence at 100Mhz. This one can handle a maximum current of 1.5A. Please check if the size is correct, the recommended part in the datasheet is aby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you check the repetiet setup guide? http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/rf-installation/by imqqmi - Reprappers
Looks like a coil to me, there's a LG2 on the board and my guess is it's the same kind of part. In electronics L stands for coil. What the G represents I don't know but my guess is it's a class of the coil. It's hard to reach and not knowing the coils induction doesn't help either. That's the disadvantage of a closed source board I guess.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to do a g92 right after g1 z-xx where xx is the z offset. You can increase the z offset until it hits the sweetspot. Also make sure the gcode isn't raising z somewhere. I've also noticed that if you use auto bed levelling grid the z offset is somehow increased. So the 8mm could be caused by abl grid. Just increase z offset and it should be ok. So try my instructions from my previous poby imqqmi - Reprappers
Glad you've found the problem!by imqqmi - Printing
It's usually when the surface area becomes small and the part that has been printed didn't cool enough to have another layer printed on top of it. You can set a minimum layer time which will slow down printing, or you could consider using a fan, though you risk warping.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Maybe there's a short. Try disconnecting all connectors and try the arduino board again. Start plugging in stuff one at a time and see if there's any device behaving badly. Building a diy 3D printer isn't for everyone. If you like the challenge and problem solving then it's certainly for you, if not a prebuild printer can be great too, though if something goes wrong it's harder to fix it yourseby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
You can invert the direction, look for INVERT_X_DIR and the corresponding y setting in configuration.h Here's a guide for all gcodes: gcodeby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
=You can attach the y stepper motor to the x port and see what it does, or connect the x motor to the y connector. If the x motor displays the same behavior then it's highly likely it's a 3.8 degrees per step motor. If the y motor displays the same behavior on the x connector it's probably the microstepping. Be sure to turn off all power to the board when swapping motors.by imqqmi - Printing
Just continue a few more times. 100/140 * 141.1 = 101 You'll home in on the correct number. If at some point you don't get consistent results, check motor current, slipping gears etc.by imqqmi - Printing
Is the glass or aluminium plate moving on the bed? Try more or tighter clamps, or spray some hair spray on the bottom side of the plate, it makes it sticky. Also see if there's any other backlash in the y carriage. Grab hold of the motor or belt and move with your other hand the print bed. Any play or springiness should be fixed as much as possible. Lowering acceleration might also help, but I'by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
I can't see why? M206 z-1 will drop the nozzle to the spot you wanted right? It will not touch the x or y setting. You can also use, as the documentation suggests, use G92 z-1 in the slicer of choice, in the start gcode, right after g29.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
You don't need another hole or bolt, just another nut, just unscrew the top or bottom bolt, pop out the spring, add a nut and pop back the spring, some creative thinking is encouraged maybe you need to take apart the whole thing, I don't own one so I can't tell you step by step but I'm sure you can figure something out. Taking it apart will also be a good learning experience, you'll know how itby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
The question is though, if what is displayed is the actual temperature or if it's off by 20 degrees. I guess you'll find out when you print abs and it still warps at 105 nay 85 degrees C.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
It seems to depend on the version of marlin firmware if you've read the m206 command entry in the link above. If you start by a small amount you can minimize the risk of crashing the nozzle into the bed.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
You'll need a temperature reference if you switch tables as the given temperature may be way off. If you own a dvm with thermo couple, that would be great. Place the thermo couple on the thermistor and check every 10 degrees. You can also adjust one of the thermistor tables to calibrate your particular thermistor. I did it with mine and checked with two thermo couples, the measurements were prettby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Even better, move the 12v wire to 24v pad on the mk2b and add a 24v psu to the 11Amps terminal, no changes in firmware needed. It may be a good idea to enable pid for the heated bed and run a self calibration command. Search the wiki for instructions.by imqqmi - Reprappers
You can use gcode. See command M206: gcode Make sure to use M500 command to write the settings to the eeprom.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Check the x stepper motor degrees per step on the sticker. It may be 3.6 degrees per step instead of the assumed 1.8 degrees. If it's 1.8, then check the pulley number of teeth and belt pitch. Finally measure the stepsticks ms1..3 pins to check the microstepping. Microstepping is a trick to get the motor to turn in smaller steps than it is rated for in factors of 2, 4, 8, 16 and 32 depending on sby imqqmi - Printing
If you have an lcd chances are that some firmware settings are ignored because the settings are stored in the eeprom. You'll need to change them using gcode or the lcd menu. Go to control/motion/z height. Don't forget to store the settings to make it survive a power cycle.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you check logging in repetier host? Does it move the z axis using gcode? Did you check at what baud rate pronterface connects? If it's lower maybe that can cause a malfunction? It's strange that pronterface works correctly. Othetwise I'd say you didn't setup the firmware board type, or there's an error in pins.h, the z axis using the same pins as the extruder maybe?by imqqmi - Printing
What are the actual values of the steps per mm section in configuration.h? Does it work when you half the numbers? You could try measuring the MS1 MS2 and MS3 pins on the stepperstick if they read about 5V. If not, then there's your problem. These pins are pulled down by default, so if nothing is connected to these pins the pins read as low (GND). stepstick Next step is to find out if the jumby imqqmi - Printing
Not much info to go on, please try and upload a video so we can see what's happening. If you say you want it to go to the center, it goes to the center, what is the problem? Is it not moving the amount of mm you expected? In that case you can see if the steps per mm for the x/y axis is correct. Do a search on the reprap.org wiki for setting up the steps per mm. Triffid Hunter's calibration guideby imqqmi - Printing