How many probe points is configured in configure.h? It seems to be set to 1 instead of 2 or 3 (2x2 or 3x3).by imqqmi - Reprappers
I've installed auto bed levelling on my i3 and like it a lot! The way the z endstop adjustment worked on the original design was very unreliable resulting in first layers jammed onto the build plate or not adhering to it with all variations in between. ABL removes that hassle too, aside from properly levelling. The print now starts with a minimum of hassle ☺. I've since changed to a bowden setupby imqqmi - Reprappers
It depends if it's a 12V/24V compatible bed. It could be that you've wired the bed for 12V use but forgot to put the two halves of the bed in parallel (for 24V they should be in series). On the MK2B heated bed for example you need to connect +12V to terminal 1 and ground to both 2 and 3.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Did you heat up the hotend? It's protected from extruding if the temp is below 170 degrees.by imqqmi - Printing
If the ntc is at the center of the heated bed and you're printing your object at the center it could be that the heat of the object is transfered to the ntc through the glass plate, hence the warm up, but this is a very local temperature increase. I had the same idea that it took very little time to heat to 120 degrees, like 5 min. on 12V but I forgot it was during testing without the glass platby imqqmi - Reprappers
I'd check with a thermo couple if the temperature is correct in steps of 10 degrees. If it's off you could try a differerent lookup table for the ntc in firmware. It looks like the temperature is too high. Maybe finding a better way to prevent warping at lower temperatures is also helpful, try improving bed adhesion with glue, hair spray, abs slurry etc.by imqqmi - Reprappers
I don't own that build but I've added a microswitch and servo probe to my prusa i3. You'll probably need a way to attach the probe, so you'll need to adapt or download an extruder or hotend holder. In the firmware you'll need to enable auto bed levelling. The are two types, three point autobed levelling and autobed levelling grid. I use the latter. It's also highly recommended to have an lcd to sby imqqmi - Reprappers
I think you're on to something! It would be interesting to know if that was the problem.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Yep, that's where the jumpers should go, that should do the trick!by imqqmi - Reprappers
Check if you've got jumpers on the control board for the steppersticks. This will cause the stepperdriver into microsteps mode (if you don't have jumpers on the control board, it will do full steps, if all 3 jumpers are placed it will do 16 or 32 steps per full step (depending on the stepper stick).by imqqmi - Reprappers
Check the gcode that's being produced, see if there's a wrong offset or something. Maybe it's centering and zeroing this position. When the print starts it goes to the center, with the offset already in the center it may go to the left corner. Post the gcode if you're not certain what to look for. (edit) You can also try generating the gcode on a different computer, then print the gcode directlyby imqqmi - Reprappers
The adhesion to the print bed could be the problem, do the edges lift off the bed? Is the bed thick and rigid enough? I had 1.4mm aluminium plates that would bend by ABS. I now use 2mm glass and this effect is no longer an issue. I use vinyl on the glass plate with good results. You can try hair spray (extra strong), glue stick, PVA glue (normal school glue), or ABS slurry. I don't like messy sby imqqmi - Reprappers
I had a similar problem with the Prusa i3, it seems your printer is based on that design if my image search on google is correct. Here's how I tackled it: Try marking the the z rod, z nut and couplers and see after a print if there's any slipping. If so, tighten all grub screws. If you use tubes instead of couplers, replace them with couplers, they are known to be slipping often, especially if lby imqqmi - Printing
Check the bed size in the settings, maybe it's set incorrectly at double the actual size or so, depending on placement of the endstops.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Use a lighter, it burns away very quickly most of the thin stuff.by imqqmi - Printing
A good starting point would be for layer height 80% of nozzle diameter: 0.32mm and extrusion width 0.5 (doing a free extrude and measuring the width would yield a good starting point too). If the perimeter vs infill have gaps or blobs, you can adjust the infill/perimeter overlap (in advanced tab) in slic3r or structures tab in cura. 15% is the default setting. Try 17-19%. But make sure you're noby imqqmi - Printing
The bed may be level but it may not be flat. Try a different print surface. If you flip the bed upside down is the center then lower than the edges?by imqqmi - Printing
I went through the same process, though I used my own extruder and hotend mount. The problem I had was that the filament hits the bowden cold end part on the edge when it comes out of the ptfe tube and the direct drive has trouble getting it over the threshold. I solved it by using a pencil sharpener on the filament. Works every time. Also resist the temptation of using the part of the filament tby imqqmi - Reprappers
Once you've got auto bed leveling going it saves you a whole lot of repeated adjusting the bed. It's also a handy tool to measure the bed flatness and for adjusting the Z height offset digitally instead of using the screw on the x motor end. If you have the EEPROM enabled and a display you can set the z offset from the menu control/motion. I don't have much problems with the wood structure thoughby imqqmi - Printing
So you say that the waves are in the Z axis? Maybe the printed bed bounces up and down when the bed stops moving? Not sure what the effect would be if xy jerk is set to 0, will it take some kind of default value or does every direction change stop the motion completely before heading in another direction? I'd try setting it to 20mm/s and see what happens. At what speeds are you printing?by imqqmi - Printing
I'm not sure what you expected it to print, could you show a picture of the toolpath in repetier? If you refer to the 'ringing' pattern near the corners, try reducing the xy jerk setting. The problem is usually caused if there's too much play in one of the x or y axes, or both. Hold the motor shaft with one hand while rocking the x-carriage and y carriage. Is there any play? You'll need to resoby imqqmi - Printing
It could also be a print bed adhesion problem. Please let us know what print bed surface you use and what type of adhesion agent you use. Plain glass? Used any solvents to remove vinger oils? Using hairspray, vinegar, glue stick etc? heated bed/temperature? I usually use 15mm/s first layer with good results. See if the printer makes a perfect circle and the filament 'cuts corners'. That couldby imqqmi - Printing
Either try a lower temperature, slow the print down or have some active cooling if you haven't already. As for the strange disturbances the pictures are hard to see what the problem is. Maybe you can use a flashlight to highlight the problem? With a focused beam any kind of faults can be much better seen and photographed. You can use slic3r cooling option. It also allows you to slow down the priby imqqmi - Printing
Only thing I can think of is to check if the hotend temperature is higher than 170 degrees, below that the extruder protection kicks in. Also check if the stepper driver gets very hot, if it is re-adjust the current to the motor by adjusting the potmeter. You could try turning off the extruder protection temporarily in the firmware to rule it out. Completely turning off the power, rebootingby imqqmi - Printing
Sounds like the heater cartridge doesn't make proper contact with the hot end. See if there's too much room inside the hole. Stuff some aluminium foil in the hole for a snug fit. The temperature can only drop so much if the heat capacity is too low or the feedrate is too high. Since you're printing at a speed below 80mm/s my guess is that the heater cartridge can't tranfer its heat well enough tby imqqmi - Printing
What slicer are you using? I've noticed cura does a better job in some cases than slic3r. Also check if theres a newer version of the slicer software, improvements are made every so often. Also play with the feed rate in slic3r for bridges under advanced tab. I use a cooling fan with abs, especially for bridging and layers under 10 seconds at 270 deg. C. Little to no warping, good layer adhesionby imqqmi - Printing
Also check if the hobbed bolt isn't slipping. See if tightening it makes a difference. When printing the extruder gears should be constantly moving, if it stops now and then while it should be turning there's a grub screw loose like the digital dentist said.by imqqmi - Printing
Homing the Z axis will indeed move down quickly first, then raise and lower more slowly to get a more accurate reading. The found Z position by default should be the position of the nozzle. You can however use Z offset using the display and control knob in menu control/motion to change where the nozzle is if you don't want to adjust the z-endstop. If that's set to 2.2mm then that should be the caby imqqmi - Printing
Does your ABS smells like PLA? I've had a roll of filament (USA branded) that smelled like ABS and PLA mixed together and had the same problem as you, though I used a higher temperature. It clogged up the nozzle in the end so I got rid of it and bought different brand ABS, which smells as normal ABS. Also make sure that the nozzle is clean on the outside and that it doesn't leak (if it's a screwby imqqmi - Printing
I've had the same issue with the prusa i3. Here's what can cause it and fix it: - slipping z rod to stepper motor tubes. Replace it with a coupler. To test, mark motor and tube with cd marker. Lubricant can leak down the z rod. - rod wire can have a deviation. I've used a 1200dpi flatbed scanner and counted the number of pixels for 100 turns and calculated what the z steps should be. - calibrateby imqqmi - Printing