Thanks David, good to know it's genuine for sure. Got two genuine e3d hot end kits as well as some genuine openbuilds aluminium extrusions in the build. I've tweaked motor current, for the extruder motor which is a nema17 and is at 800mA. It was skipping steps at 200mA. The Nema23 steppers (AB and Z axis) are at 200mA, no skipped steps so far. The coil resistance is 24 ohms for the nema23 and aby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines
Looks to me some kind of memory offset shift that I know some displays have to shift the content of the display. If it's consistently doing that it could be a memory issue or a firmware issue. Some displays are made with customizations of other manufacturers and you've picked up a model with such a change. Try a display from a different source.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Thanks for the feedback! The homez.g I used was generated, would be great if it would give an option if you enter an offset it would change the homez.g. i'll put in s feature request as Toni suggested. I bought it from reprapworld.com, a dutch webshop. I assume it's genuine. Are you able to confirm? What is the extruder pwm frequency? The led doesn't blink like the heated bed one. Ah yes I rby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines
The Duet 2 wifi has arrived! I've spend the afternoon to replace some connectors from my RAMPS installation to Duet with the included connectors. It's a bit fiddly without a proper crimp tool but I got it done. It was for the limit switches. I went against the consensus of crimping the heated bed and extruder heater by leaving it with tinned ends. It never was a problem before and I made sure I tby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines
You can use a text editor and use regular expressions to post process the gcode and add g1 to all lines starting with x, y or z. Ie using notepad++ Search for ^(x|y|z)(.*) Replace with ^g1 $1$2 If the cam software you're using has post processing scripts you can probably change it there.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Did you adjust the extruder motor current on the stepstick? Does it bind anywhere, gears aligned, hobbed bolt aligned with filament? Are you using a fan to cool the e3d heatbreak? Is the hot end temperature stable when extruding? Did you do pid auto tune?by imqqmi - Printing
Try bumping up acceleration until loosing steps then back it off a bit until stable, then try bumping up the jerk setting. That worked for me. It's basically due to nozzle pressure not being able to adjust rapidly enough to account for slowing down due to direction changes and how fast it can do 180 degrees turns, which is what solid infill is. So to fix this you can try making the nozzle spendby imqqmi - Printing
Just a quick update. The Duet3D wifi order failed from AlieExpress so I've decided to buy genuine locally, it's now on order. It's not that much more expensive: 120 euro vs 160 euro. I also ordered a couple of e3d socks and nozzles. I'm looking forward to how the duet will perform vs the RAMPS 1.4 I use now (with Marlin v1.1.9). It's really noisy on moves between 50 and 70mm/s. It's probably inby imqqmi - CoreXY Machines
I don't see why not, though I don't know if you'd really want to do that. You need to edit the gcode manually to force the printing process to wait for the bed to cool as pid tuning is recommended to start with a bed/hot end at room temperature. This would only make sense when printing at high volume and PID needs to be tuned to account for cooling down the melt chamber when a lot of cool plasticby imqqmi - General
That's quite a baffling graph. Are you sure the heated bed cools down? When the read out jumps up for a short time you'd expect the temperature to drop but it doesn't. It could be a communication problem between octoprint and the ramps board. The temperature may be correct and the pid loop may still be adjusting it while octoprint receives garbled data. Do you have a volt meter? Do you observe tby imqqmi - Printing
Did you check the basics? - 12V power? - step sticks seated correctly on the ramps board? - all jumpers placed under the ramps board? - are there more than 3 jumper slots per step stick, try locating docs for configuration and put the proper jumpers in place. - did you read and configure the configuration.h file? It may take a few hours to a day depending on familiar you are with 3d printer firmwby imqqmi - Printing
You gave us good feedback, that helped a lot! With these kind of things one almost needs to be an electronics engineer to troubleshoot hardware that's losely standardized and reinterpreted by clone manufacturers.by imqqmi - Printing
I think feedrate is just a factor that increases or decreases the velocity of all axes including the extruder. Normally the factor is 1, and if you want to increase by 50% you use 1.5x velocity of all axes (up to the limits set by Vmax). In addition to looking at slicer code, you can look at the marlin firmware source code, a feedrate control is implemented. I haven't looked myself but by observby imqqmi - General
Great to hear the problem is found, good group effortby imqqmi - Printing
Oh and the reset and sleep pin, whats the signal lije on those?by imqqmi - Printing
What about the enable pins on the stepesticks? Maybe the signal is bad or the tirmware is shutting off the motors?by imqqmi - Printing
Ok, that doesn't sound good. Could you check if the step signal is reaching the step sticks, or do they stop too? That would indicate that the atmega also has stopped. Do you have another arduino board? Does the gcode interpreter still respond? ie can you send commands to display information like M503? Can you check if the current draw on the 12V looks ok? If it seems high like 5A with only theby imqqmi - Printing
I think this is the problem: QuoteMS1/MS2 are floating (around 0V) The MS1..MS3 pins (any logic input pins actually) shouldn't be left floating, they should either be connected to logic low or logic high. What happens when left floating is that due to the high impedance (between 50 and 100k Ohm) any parasitic charge may be built up causing it to sort of randomly flip from low to high and vice vby imqqmi - Printing
Ah, so maybe a trace is blown, or a solder joint has gone bad?by imqqmi - Reprappers
What you call motor driver is also known as a step stick. You can move them to other locations, or replace them if they fail.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Or just swap the step sticks...by imqqmi - Reprappers
Did you try a differen psu? Sounds like the psu may have a grounding issue sending power through the usb lead to the pc. Also check what the ripple is on the psu supply real is visible with oscilloscope (ac on top of the dc voltage). This may interfere with the mcu and/or stepsticks. Also check the stepstick and ramps schematics and check if the board is actually conforming to the schematicsbon tby imqqmi - Printing
Sounds like a coupling issue. Maybe the motor currents propagate to the controller board because of unshielded cables, improper grounding, poorly regulating power supply etc. Try powering the controller separately from the motor and bed power supply. If you've got an oscilloscope, try monitoring the 5V rail on the controller and see how much noise can be seen. Adding more capacitance to the cby imqqmi - Printing
If uploading the firmware fails you can't connect with repetier. So first fix the uploading of firmware first. Is there any error code, try googling it.by imqqmi - General
Looks like motor current needs to be tuned, it looks like as though microstepping isn't exactly smooth. Try a move at 10mm/min and see if the motion is smooth, if it sounds and/or appears to be irregular, jumping you can try adjusting motor current until smooth.by imqqmi - Printing
Did you at some point change firmware versions? Try resetting the eeprom to default. Make sure you record any settings you currently have stored in it. It fixed some weird behavior with mine. I've upgraded marlin v1.0 to v1.1.9 and when I turned on pid for heated bed it just did't heat up when running a print job. Manually it worked great.by imqqmi - General
Well, great lessons learned! Glad to hear you've figured it out.by imqqmi - Printing
I've got slicer start up g code setup so that it extrudes 10mm when it's up to temperature with the nozzle hovering just beside the print bed at Z1 so the extruded plastic drops down. Then it starts the print and moves to z0.33mm for the first layer, sort of wiping it on the bed. The first part of the skirt is slightly over extruding before settling to the correct extrusion width. The wipe line iby imqqmi - General
Are you using openbuilds t slot extrusions? Get these t-slot nuts. These are much wider giving better support without damaging the extrusion. It also has a spring loaded ball which keeps it in place. It's also possible to insert them in place so if the ends or are blocked or other stuff is mounted it's easy to just drop them in place. Please note that these probably don't fit in regular extrusioby imqqmi - Look what I made!