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Robots, children's blocks, wooden clocks, its all good! Here's my idea and here's the [[page]] on RepRap's wiki where we can log in and click "edit".
Re: Marlin - Acceleration settings differ from what is set - 9 years ago
I always use the smart-LCD function " use standardconfig" and "store EEprom" to refresh my values. Others use pronterface/printrface or whatnot and write "M502" then "M500" to achieve the same. The function you were using, is IMHO for developers who change/add EEprom data for their specific addon. -Olafby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Quick release belt tensioner ( x-carrier i3 ) - 9 years ago
For me it is mainly a worm up lesson with openSCAD. I started to design a cable guide, but I have to redesign it again. -Olafby o_lampe - Look what I made!
Re: Full Color 3d Printer Project - 9 years ago
I think, dying filament after extrusion is complicated, because you would need "inkjets" all around the nozzle and the slicer would then control, which inkjet is on duty. I was wondering, why the danish guys from the Diamond hotend got their kickstarter campaign goals in "no time" and all the other guys here are discussing dye-techniques for more than 3 years now, almost without result. Guys,by o_lampe - Developers
Re: mks gen 2z v1.1 - 9 years ago
You have a shortcut somewhere in your extruder heater-assembly. Can be on the mks board or the wires from the heater element have contact with the hotend body... After you´ve found the problem, you could switch over to the heater1 FET and change the firmware accordingly. Here is a snip from reprap-wiki that might be interesting for you then: Comment utiliser Heather 1 D7 pour E1 dans {Pins.hby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Extruder motor spontaneously stops working - 9 years ago
In Marlin look for Pins.h ( almost at the bottom of the list ). There is a section about extruder pins, which you can change to your needs. When the stepper holds the Position, but doesn´t move, there are not many options of pin-failures. I´d check "step, enable" for cold solderjoints on the Driver,RAMPS and mega board.by o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Print issues, Please help - 9 years ago
I never had an oozing nozzle, because I retract fast. That causes the molten filament to get sucked back into the nozzle. ( Well at least in my imagination ) -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Multi Material extruder and one motor+servos - 9 years ago
Quotebiskero Ciao, looks like this idea has been done Here is the company, prices are a bit high ! One issue that I see here is the gear mechanism and the motor direction spin, in any case cool to see that the principle works. Alessandro Nice video, but their design can only deal with 2 filaments. The amount of retraction is more or less a fixed but coincidental value. The servo idea is mucby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Print issues, Please help - 9 years ago
@○cristioan, you don´t lift the nozzle at all? I´ve checked my gcode, and it retracts the extruder, then lifts z for 0.075mm. You say, this lift could cause those towers? I´ll try next time to keep z down and see... -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Reprap CNC Gcode controller - 9 years ago
QuoteSorry Olaf, but it's not as simple as that! It´s never easy, but a nice challenge for DIYers. I also thought about using the "Offset" function of openSCAD to build a single layer milling-friendly part. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Extruder stops mid print (and it's not jamming) - 9 years ago
Quotejavitopia Both the motor and the driver have been replaced, also since the controller is different the current it's probably different. That tells me, you don´t know?! -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Heatbed relay questions - 9 years ago
1. Would it be necessary to control the heatbed via PID? I have mine in bang-bang mode and that would work too for the big SSD-controlled one?! 2. When a SSD relais gets hot, would it be possible to put it under the aluminum bed acting as heatsink? 110°C would be OK for the SSD? -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: failed Mega 2560 firmware update - 9 years ago
Can you see the mega board in the device manager, when it´s connect thru USB? Using a ISP programmer is only one option to bypass a fried USB-chip. You can also use any other arduino-board to act as a programmer-dummy. See arduino.cc for more details. But all the options only help with flashing the firmware/bootloader. I don´t know, if pronterface or printing in general would work via ISP or secby o_lampe - General
Re: Achatz marlin firmware error in arduino programmer - 9 years ago
The error codes you posted, are related to the LCD settings. You screwed up your config.h Extruder temp is the same as bed temp? Did you plug the tempsensors in the right place? Did you plug the heater and bed cables in the right place? Wire guage to the bed is important, too. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: 3DPrinterOS Software - 9 years ago
QuoteAndrew I am not sure what the business model is based upon (advertising? community database sales?), That´s why I don´t use TinkerCAD -Olafby o_lampe - Experimental
Re: Problem with Ramps 1.4 and power supply - 9 years ago
You can break them apart, no problem. Just be careful not to bend any pins or something. Test one driver after the other with a good stepper ( eg. no shortcuts in the winding ) Dont plug or unplug the stepper nor the driver while the board is powered. Check all drivers for bad solderjoints or soldered shortcuts. ( I´ve seen a few bad soldered pins on the pictures ) Even the heatsink can cause sby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Question about vibrating step motor (RAMPS 1.4 + A4988 Stepstick + Marlin firmware ) - 9 years ago
Quotelaopa As _o_Lamp, be sure one pair is on A and the other is on B. It´s not enough that A is on the A-port and B is on the B-port. They also have to match A/A+ and B/B+ or A/A1 and B/B1. Otherwise the stepper only vibrates. Chinese kid slaves in the stepper factory can make mistakes sometimes....by o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folgertech x-axis not running, not smooth, not homing. - 9 years ago
Steppers don´t have a potmeter. Please refer to it as a "driver". That makes it easier to follow your description. Thanks... Do you have a LCD Screen? What does it say about position, when you manually pressed the x-home switch? (0,0,0 or 200,0,0?) When the stepper tries to run further although it hits the endswitch, it is usually defined the wrong way or is not connected to the right port on tby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa I3 Rework Y-Min Endstop - 9 years ago
Letter E or letter H,X, O etc. are not the best way to test orientation, because they all are "mirrored" in a way. Better try to draw a "F" or something. But, you got your orientation right, so far. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: New board install - 9 years ago
It´s like having diesel in your tank and killing one gas-motor after the other.... As long as you don´t find the cause for the failure, you will buy new boards/drivers endlessly.... Did you check the wiring between drivers and steppers? A wrong connection will cause the steppers to hum but not move. When the wires from the stepper aren´t labeled, you have to use an Ohm-meter to read the resistaby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Wrong hotbed temprature - 9 years ago
A shortcut between the thermistor wires . Check the cable under the heated bed. Loose strands on the RAMPS-connector can also cause shortcuts. When you unplug the thermistor and it still reads 238°C instead of 0°C, it is a shortcut on the board. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa i3 build: questions about heated bed & thermistors. - 9 years ago
Hi, 1. Yes you have to solder both "negative pads" together. Otherwise only one half of the heated bed will get hot. Reason: They are actually the start- and endpoint of the whole 24V trace. The 12V pad is only a centerpoint of this trace. You have to solder them in parallel to close the circuit for both halfes. 2. I would solder Dupont-connectors to your thermistor-wires and use shrinktube oby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: finaly working thermistor mks gen1.1 - 9 years ago
Good News! Why did you start a new thread for that? Now the answer to your problem is lost for future reprappers, running into similar problems. BTW. Have you seen this in reprap-wiki? I don´t speak french, but to me it sounds like you have to change -1 with 7 for your board?! ( only for dual extruders? ) Comment utiliser Heather 1 D7 pour E1 dans {Pins.h} remplacer le "-1 " en "7"by o_lampe - General
Re: Extruder stops mid print (and it's not jamming) - 9 years ago
The stepper will only stop working, when it has a winding shortage . This would probably cause the driver to overheat and stop. My humble opinion: You have an electric problem, not a slicer problem. ( bad solder or cracked pcb-trace or loose wire ) The reason, why it happens on long prints, is purely statistics. -Olaf PS: You can force the error by pressing/twisting the boards while it printsby o_lampe - General
Re: Reprap CNC Gcode controller - 9 years ago
There is a special CNC subforum, where you probably find the answer. I will follow you, because I have the same plans sooner or later... Basically, you would have to search the gcode of the first layer for: ;LAYER:0 ;TYPE:WALL-OUTER .... ;TYPE:WALL-INNER .... and skip the rest of the code. ( mostly ) Then recalculate the coordinates new, depending on the diameter of your milling-tool. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Print issues, Please help - 9 years ago
It looks, like your retraction settings aren´t sufficient. Fromt the pictures it seems to be some j-head /E3D hotend. I don´t know the best retraction settings for them.. I also found, that the "G0"-speed that moves the head without extruding should be as fast as possible. It´s like working with a glue gun: If you want to avoid the glue to plaster strings all over the place, you have to make a fby o_lampe - General
Re: one stepper +5 filaments = dog box shifting! 
- 9 years ago
They must have a pretty good cooling inside the Palette. I´m afraid, that freshly meshed/fused filament can´t be pushed very well when it´s still hot... -Olafby o_lampe - Developers
Re: Heatbed stalls @ 92c - 9 years ago
Quoteelwood127 Thanks. I'm not using Marlin. Another question, how the heck can I print hollow. I set Slic3r to 0% infill and it keeps filling. In Cura which I prefer, there is no way to eliminate infill. Been trying to print a spiral vase but can't get it hollow. Thanks. Brian. In Cura you have to open the expert mode and choose "black Magic" print. Don´t forget to deselect it next time, whenby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Question about vibrating step motor (RAMPS 1.4 + A4988 Stepstick + Marlin firmware ) - 9 years ago
QuoteAndrewBCN Z stepper acceleration is completely wrong, it should be between 2 and 5. Also set a much lower default acceleration, something like 500 for tests. And recheck the steppers wiring. Vref=1V is a good starting point in your case. z-Speed should be 2-5, acceleration of 100 is fine... -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: one stepper +5 filaments = dog box shifting! - 9 years ago
Other guys also had the idea, but with servos. -Olafby o_lampe - Developers
Re: Multi Material extruder and one motor+servos - 9 years ago
Come over here, we have a lively discussion about several Options to run multiple Filaments with one stepper. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers