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Robots, children's blocks, wooden clocks, its all good! Here's my idea and here's the [[page]] on RepRap's wiki where we can log in and click "edit".
Re: Question about vibrating step motor (RAMPS 1.4 + A4988 Stepstick + Marlin firmware ) - 9 years ago
The formula is correct, but you can´t raise the Vref high enough. But still it should run without load. I´m sure, you have the motor wiring wrong. Because thats the cause for a humming stepper. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed stalls @ 92c - 9 years ago
Quoteelwood127 I feel like a dork. Where is that file. As in Windows/ start/ run??? More like: github/ search / Marlin and arduino.cc / download / ArduinoIDE -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: one stepper +5 filaments = dog box shifting! 
- 9 years ago
The Palette would waste a lot of filament between color changes. The hole string between the Palette box and the hotend would have to be dumped. I wonder, if they can retract at all? But I´d use it as standalone device to make my own colors at home... -Olafby o_lampe - Developers
Re: Can't use 2 Z-Axis Steppers with multiple extruders Marlin - 9 years ago
Why did you start a second thread? I use both z-steppers at the same driver. That would help with the actual problem. Then, there is a line you might want to try out: #define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Hardening your Prusa i3 3D Printer - 9 years ago
I printed both, the glorius and the ultimate troll. I had a little fuzz beween them and the ultimate didn´t look too good on the underside. It was like "around the world in 80 days-challenge", but with a modern supersonic jet -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: 1.75 mm Filament with a 3mm J-Head Hotend - 9 years ago
If I remember correctly, the difference in the 1.75mm J-head is only a piece of 3x2mm PTFE tubing. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: NEW: SinapTec AT328.02 is a 3D FDM printer controller board of ultra low cost, Based on Arduino Nano - 9 years ago
It misses an LCD connector, too... -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: pins.h help - 9 years ago
You can change position of bed and hotend port, to see if the error is still there. But you can´t print then. It is a good test method to find the error. -Olaf PS: Which board did you Chose from the list? #define BOARDS_H #define BOARD_UNKNOWN -1 #define BOARD_GEN7_CUSTOM 10 // Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics" #define BOARD_GEN7_12by o_lampe - General
Re: Can't define multiple extruders Marlin - 9 years ago
QuoteConanE Hello all, I've been trying to make a custom 3D printer, and my hardware as of right now consists of an Azteeg X3 Pro board with SureStepr drivers from Panucatt Devices, as well as a ViKI LCD screen. I'm using the Marlin firmware. If I try to change #define EXTRUDERS 1 to any larger integer, arduino comes up with an error. Unfortunately, I'm posting this from my phone so I can't proviby o_lampe - General
Re: Backwards Y axis?? - 9 years ago
1.Put the cable of the y-stop in the y-max position 2. Change direction for homing in FW: "#define Y_HOME_DIR 1" 3. Check in FW, if you have set the y-lenght of the table correctly: "#define Y_MAX_POS xxx" ( maybe 200 by default ) Flash it and then use M502 & M500 commands to store the new values in EEprom. ( If you haven´t EEprom enabled yet, do it! ) #define EEPROM_SETTINGS ... #define EEPby o_lampe - General
Re: Naked Heated Bed - 9 years ago
Quoteswicboi Well I know the locations are different things on different boards....but if your looking at the board with the power on the bottom right...I plugged the bed into the first 2 screw terminals from the power main..directly next to it...On my board they are lableled for the bed Bottom left would make sense... Yes the connector is right. M140 S0 should work. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Prusa I3 Z axis problem - 9 years ago
QuoteStack My X end stop is a max (Like the pic) My Z is a min (like the pic) but my Y is a min (different from the pic). My home position is diagonal from the one in the picture. When your 0,0,0 position is at the opposite corner, but your x-stop is at the same place as in the picture, the x-stop is a min-stop The position of the y-stepper is not important. It is only relevant, if the stepperby o_lampe - General
Re: Can't use 2 Z-Axis Steppers with multiple extruders Marlin - 9 years ago
If you were able to assign all necessary pins to X, Y, Z1, Z2, E0, E1, E2, E3 it will only be a question of g-code commands. Marlin will pass the commands to the assigned pins. It doesn´t care, what function a stepper has. All "z"-steppers get the same treatment ( acceleration/max.speed/ z-steps) and all "e"-steppers follow their rules, too. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Ways to extend wiring? - 9 years ago
Quote3Dkarma I would be careful that it is all copper and not copper clad aluminium, though. He already answered it, I´d say...by o_lampe - General
Re: Connecting model parts automatically - 9 years ago
Do you use openSCAD to generate the text? You could write a generic grid-file on the x/y surface and make "union()" with your letters. Then you start printing the bottom layers in transparent filament and later change to the desired color. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: one stepper +5 filaments = dog box shifting! - 9 years ago
Where is my reply to Franks proposal? Do we have censorship in this forum? All I wanted to say, is: with a big gear on the stepper and smaller gears on each extruder, the torque hungry bowden setup won´t have an easy time. And I have started a "commercial collaboration" and can not tell more about my progress. -Olafby o_lampe - Developers
Re: one stepper +5 filaments = dog box shifting! - 9 years ago
I think, with low pressure on the idler gear you will only grind into the filament. This would make the slip-rate unpredictable. How would you calculate the amount of actually extruded filament? -Olafby o_lampe - Developers
Re: Can't use 2 Z-Axis Steppers with multiple extruders Marlin - 9 years ago
I think this part of Marlin is only meant to use the second extruder port as driver for two z-steppers. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Ways to extend wiring? - 9 years ago
QuoteFlexible Stranded Copper Clad Aluminum That doesn´t sound good for my foreign ears. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Naked Heated Bed - 9 years ago
What program do you use for PID autotuning? Do you have this M140 S0 line in your end-Gcode? Where did you put the cables on the RAMPS? Probably they are placed in extruder 2 (D9) now? -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: 
Help with hotend - 9 years ago
The reason for the temp cutoff too early, is the PID setting in firmware I don´t know, how to fix this. Maybe there is an autotune option? -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Prusa I3 Z axis problem - 9 years ago
QuoteJamesK Quoteo_lampe Quotewolfend I don't believe Olaf is correct. As you can see in the picture, when the Y-endstop is triggered, the extruder Y position will be at 0, which is min. In the picture, the green arrow represents the 0,0,0 position. When an endstop is at the opposite side, it is a MAX. endstop. It is even written y-max. on it. -Olaf The green arrow represents x=0, y=0. y=0 isby o_lampe - General
Re: Quick release belt tensioner ( x-carrier i3 ) - 9 years ago
V3 is here! Changed the excenter surface and the lever. Turned it around and now it´s completely hidden on the back of the frame. The last 3 faces snap into position really well. A nice secure feeling. -Olaf It´s now on thingiby o_lampe - Look what I made!
Re: Motors make loud buzzing noise and wont turn. - 9 years ago
You might have the wrong connection order when you soldered your own extension cables? For your RAMPS it is 2B 2A 1A 1B. But your motors are Quote PIN1= B- •PIN3= B •PIN4= A •PIN6= A- So you should try 2B = B- 2A = A- 1A = A 1B = B -Olafby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Look what my printer made, all by himself! - 9 years ago
LOL Another challenge accepted I dig in my PLA-trash-bin to show you my "art".by o_lampe - Look what I made!
Re: Z-axis moving slow - 9 years ago
What type of printer? Delta or Core-XY or cartesian? Shall we guess to give you advice? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Naked Heated Bed - 9 years ago
Quoteswicboi And thank you for your response as well o_lampe So I'm not sure of the guage but I do have an extra length of insulated wiring that came with an e3d heater cartridge for my spare hotend would that be sufficient or should I just bite the bullet and buy some thicker guage wiring??? Also what is this GND cable you are talking about? The hotend cable usually has a nice heatresistant inby o_lampe - General
Re: Prusa I3 Z axis problem - 9 years ago
Quotewolfend I don't believe Olaf is correct. As you can see in the picture, when the Y-endstop is triggered, the extruder Y position will be at 0, which is min. In the picture, the green arrow represents the 0,0,0 position. When an endstop is at the opposite side, it is a MAX. endstop. It is even written y-max. on it. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Extruder stops mid print (and it's not jamming) - 9 years ago
Could be a bad solder or broken PCB-trace on one of the boards. Only occures when the heat slowly creeps in all corners of the PCB. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Ways to extend wiring? - 9 years ago
Quotedave³ I need to extend the wiring from my nema17, e3dv6 and motor fans Did you say, you want to extent the cables for the E3Dv6? Than you might look for a pair of thicker wire than 22AWG or the hotend will stay too"cold". I´m not familiar with these AWG sizes, probably some US-reprapper can tell? If you have a smart-LCD, don´t extend these cables. They already work like antennas and I hadby o_lampe - General