When I measured a test cube, I always got more than one size. Differing from eg. 19.678 to 20.123mm You´re saying 21mm. Period. That sounds unrealistic to me. You should use a caliper to measure. If there really is a constant 5% error in scale you only have to reduce the steps/mm in Marlin FW for x,y,z by 5% and you´re done. -Olafby o_lampe - General
If you have the y-endstop as shown in the picture, you should define y as max ( not min, as you wrote ) -Olafby o_lampe - General
I can´t help you with the drying issue ( did you try Rice instead of silica gel?) But for the short ends of filament, I have an idea to put them back together: Take an extra hotend. Replace the nozzle with a brass tube M6 outside/ 1.8mm inside. Heat it up and push two pieces of filament in it. They will melt and come out as one. ( after a bit of cooling ) This is just theory, I haven´t tested iby o_lampe - General
In Cura you can set the z-gap as small as you like. * attached Also you can define a "pause @z" where you´d have time to put kapton on the support structure. Happy printing -Olafby o_lampe - General
QuoteCraigMoberg Quoteelwood127 Nice print Craig. These machines are a perfect learning tool. Oh, that link isn't to my print -- that's the maker on Thingiverse. This is mine: (almost as good ) Challenge accepted I printed mine with 0.4mm wall and manual filament change. The wall is almost transparent but still sturdy! Beat this! -Olaf I have a 0.2mm nozzle, getting curious if 0.2mm wallby o_lampe - Reprappers
QuoteThe current potentiometer was at about 25 %. You should set it to a certain voltage, like 0.35V to start with. I´ve had different drivers and some need to be turned counterclockwise to raise stapper current. -Olafby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
The math is easy: each hotend has 40W . At 12V this is 3.33A. You only have a 5A fuse. One extruder has to be powered and controlled by a relais. It wasn´t necessary to power both hotends at once, because the slicers I know only generate code for one nozzle at a time. I have to apologize, I didn´t know, that Marlin has such settings. A second x-axis would be the easiest adation. Just put two fby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Yes, it already happend, while I was changing filament during a print. I accidently brushed against the lever and it snapped loose. I will change the round excenter part to an octagon, which has some flats on it. This way the tension isn´t stepless anymore, but I´m not tuning a guitar, right? Also the lever can be smaller, I don´t need so much force. That´s what rapid prototyping is good for -by o_lampe - Look what I made!
As soon as you have a working printer, you can combine anything with everything. Even if this first printer makes lousy parts on slow speed, it is a startingpoint. I´d give the graber i3 a second chance. Try to adapt the binding y-axis with washers or elastic shims to make it work. Or buy a cheap acrylic rework frame and transplant your stuff to it. -Olafby o_lampe - General
When you´ve managed to implement it in Marlin, how would you tell the slicer you have two independent extruders? What would be the benefit of two independent extruders? The RAMPS fuse can´t power both hot ends at the same time. ( SS-Relais would help ) If it´s just about printing dual color at higher speed, you better build a second printer and reach that goal easily. Only my 2 cent.... -Olafby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
What board type did you set in the firmware? Maybe some pins are assigned the wrong way? I killed a few drivers by accidently not plugging the stepper cable onto all 4 posts and/or pulled them off, while the power was still on... -Olafby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Quotesarf2k4 Such a "spam" like thread title Even worse, it´s a multi-spammer Please don´t post the same thing twice -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
It´s just a baby step forward for Prusa i3, but I haven´t seen anything like it on thingiverse. I have to tweak the design a bit and see if it stands the test of time. I´ll post the final version on thingiverse. -Olafby o_lampe - Look what I made!
Nice design, but it misses an umbrella holder to keep the bottles dryby o_lampe - Look what I made!
Quotedc42 - Building a large printer will cost you quite a lot in mechanical parts, so don't spoil it by using Arduino/RAMPS electronics. Go for good 32-bit electronics with a web interface, such as Duet or Smoothieboard. Why is it better to have the stepper drivers onboard? A newbie (like me) killes a driver in no_time. With a duet or smoothieboard you are screwed for a long time. RAMPS and poby o_lampe - Reprappers
I have a watt meter in the 12V line. This way, I can see what voltage I´ve set on the PSU ( 12V regular, but 14V to heat up quicker ) Also at the end of a printjob, I can see the consumed Wh. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Quoteo_lampe When the nozzle is hot and you push filament from the outside against the nozzle, does it melt easy? If yes, you probably have a blocked nozzle. If not, you have a wrong temperature setting. First of all, I wouldn´t trust your temperature reading. What thermistor version did you choose in firmware? -Olaf If you can´t answer these questions, the best hot-end in the world wouldn´tby o_lampe - General
The third has metall bushings for x and y. And it has real leadscrews for z. This is my favourite. The big print area needs longer to heat up and some report, it is difficult to bring it above 90°C ( ABS needs ~110°C ) -Olaf BTW: They all have acrylic fronts for the y-carrier. I don´t know, if they will last long Belt tension will deform them over time.by o_lampe - General
Use at least 1.5mm² or 14gauge wire for the heatbed. For ABS printing use silicone insulated wire ( recommended ) Yes, for 12V you have to solder both pads to the GND cable. -Olaf PS: I´ve turned my MK3 heated bed upside down ( blank aluminum is on top ) The glass plate has much better contact or with blue paintertape you can print with 40-45°C on the bed. The MK3 is the only board ( I know )by o_lampe - General
If you have experience with RC-LiPo batteries and have a 3s-pack at hand, you can help yourself until the replacement part arrives. Follow at yout own risk, LiPo´s can be dangerous when overcharged. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Whe you change a endstop to be defined as "max" then you also have to wire it accordingly on the RAMPS board. When a stepper runs the wrong way after redefinition, you can turn around it´s cable or better do all the definitions in the firmware. #define INVERT_X_DIR true ... #define X_HOME_DIR 1 -Olafby o_lampe - General
Quotetrist077 ok so i need a amplifier board as my eletronics only support adc and the pt100 is rtd so where can i get such board Have you asked the dumbass who sold the pt100 to you?by o_lampe - General
You´d check the voltage of the extruder-driver. Your stepper is hot from overcurrent! -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
What do you mean with "using 8 Volts"? The voltage drops from 12V to 4V? Then you have a big problem with the PSU or wiring. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
I´ve only seen pictures of the Folgertech extruder. There is a spring, that you have to compress and then pull out the filament. Switching off the steppers might help too? -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
There are two metal tongues on the sd-card housing. The one on the side is telling, whether the card is locked (writeprotected) or not. The other tongue tells if there is a card or not. Maybe this tongue doesn´t make good contact? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
@atheimer The wires to your heated bed look a bit thin. With the new PSU, can you measure the v-drop over the cable? Do they get hot? Is it silicone or PVC insulated? People who print at high bed temperatures should use silicone insulated wires or at least split these PVC-twin wires apart. The heat creeps in the cable pretty fast and can make the PVC soft and cause shortcuts. Even more when theby o_lampe - Reprappers
Glad to hear! Have you checked the two z-sides, if they run parallel? I found my M5 nuts on the z-leadscrews were not aligned and all the weight rested on one z-rod. That can cause noise too. When I adjusted the balance between the two z-rods, I had to level the heated bed afterwards. -Olafby o_lampe - General
I got it But what still puzzles me is the "rotation centerpoint" function + 3 I would expect it to go through [0,0,0], but it is "somewhere, out there" And it is not related to the real rotation. Is it only for the "camera"? -Olafby o_lampe - OpenSCAD
When the nozzle is hot and you push filament from the outside against the nozzle, does it melt easy? If yes, you probably have a blocked nozzle. If not, you have a wrong temperature setting. First of all, I wouldn´t trust your temperature reading. What thermistor version did you choose in firmware? -Olafby o_lampe - General