QuoteAre there other ways of mounting them? I´ve seen simple versions with only a spring between the nuts. -Olafby o_lampe - Mechanics
Quotetrist077 bought from esd online and it said it would fit the v6 kit when bought with the new heatsink block OK, it fit´s mechanically, but for the RAMPS you would need a interface-board. -Olafby o_lampe - General
...or look for another 12V PSU? Does the heated bed have different solder pads for 12/24V? You already use a relais, so you could put another 12V PSU in series for the heatbed only and still use your old PSU for the RAMPS ( and the heatbed ) -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
If it follows the laws of physic, why does a newbie user have to fill in all the acceleration/max/min -stuff? I expect a one button GUI, called autotune and that´s it -Olafby o_lampe - General
Thanks to all for the replies! I tried the cos(45) variant and it totally makes sense. I will work through jolly´s version too, to understand the difference. These corner parts were meant as a quick and dirty enclosure for my printer, but it took 4 hours to write these few lines... I could have made them from marble in less time I´ll try to make that parametric , so the angles of the diagonby o_lampe - OpenSCAD
QuoteNEW: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {157.48, 157.48, 5120, 190} For a prusa i3 this line should be: NEW: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160, 160, 8000, xxx} xxx= Unknown, because the extruder steps depend on the gear you have. Don´t forget to use M502 & M500 after you flashed the new firmware to store the new values in EEprom. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
You could add another point to the list: Eliminate compression of z-axis gear coupler with 4.5mm ball. ( eg. airgun ammo ) -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Quote#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} Change this line to : #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 3, 25} This will make the stepper work again. With "5" it was to fast ( and noisy ) Every time you change and reflashed the firmware, you have to use M502 & M500 command to store the new values in Eeprom. -Olafby o_lampe - General
QuoteJamesK Hi Olaf, What's the orange band around the middle of your pulleys? That´s my trademark. I simply changed the filament in the middle of the print... -Olafby o_lampe - General
That´s true, the worst thing making regular marks, is the lm8uu bearing-crap. The belt itself would cause bigger gaps The stepper produces small torque ripples (200/rev), no matter if you have microstepping or not. But in my case that would be 5 fullsteps/mm ( 16 tooth GT2 pulley ) Way too fine to be seen The search goes on -Olafby o_lampe - General
It sure is a cold solder somewhere between thermistor and controller. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Today I tried a different approach. Printed PLA parts with brim => cut off brim with scissors=> use cigaret lighter around the bottom => perfectly smooth edges Try at your own risk -Olafby o_lampe - General
I printed a set of 24 tooth idler pulleys that fit on my ballbearings. For now I placed it only on the y-axis,so I can compare x and y-faces to see any difference. The hobbed bolt theory sounds also plausible to me. -Olaf Printed my speedtest-cube. 20x20x20mm cube with 40mm/s start speed. Every 2mm the speed increases by 20%. The final slices are printed at 112mm/s You´ll notice vertical darby o_lampe - General
Quotetobig11 Change the wire to the thermistor to a thinner wire. This got me to 90 degrees. Wow, what is the science behind this? It sounds, like you are only cheating yourselve. Sorry, don´t take it pesonal -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Is it a cube or a chinese pagode-temple? I´ve had the same issues with my printer. I installed belt-tensioners and reduced "outer Shell" speed to 30mm/sec. Much better now. _Olafby o_lampe - General
Some guys mentioned using acetone to smooth their ABS parts. Maybe use a knife for the brim, then acetone? -Olafby o_lampe - General
Those vertical patterns can also be a result of the lm8uu bearings rattling along. I´d say, that these bearings cause much more issues in Prusa-world than GT2 pulleys. Although I´ll try to change my smooth idlers with toothed ones, to see any improvement. -Olafby o_lampe - General
The last one looks great! When I mentioned the thickness of PLA, it wasn´t humidity, but fabrication tolerance I had in mind. The z-steps are "written in stone": You have a thread with a given slope and steppers with fixed (micro)-steps. That calculates to a certain steps/mm ( 80 steps I´d guess ) The only source of z-error is : not enough current for both steppers and therefor skipped steps.by o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
You should print a complete testcube and then see, if you´d raise z-steps or better reduce e-steps to fight against the accumulating scratch-error. Might be, your filament isn´t exactly 1.75mm but a bit more? I don´t like the z-stop gadged, the endstop sticks out and is very exposed. But in general, I´m using the same concept with an allen-head screw. Try to aim the screw directly to the switch,by o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
You could also heat the hotend up to ABS temperature and manually push PLA through it, until no ABS keeps oozing out. Then pull back a little ( 4-5mm ) and let it cool down. With good cooling at the coldend, this shouldn´t be a problem -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Your temp is too low, when you get layer separation. The 1st layer should not exceed 80% of nozzle diameter. 0.3 works good for me, when I have the nozzle slighty push the bed down at z-home. ( 200% extrusion sounds way too much for me?) Other layers can be as thin as 50% with good results. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteFloyd Might be the power supply. Most people run 12v 30amp PSU's The heatbed usually only draws 8A. But it is a good idea to check the voltage at_the_bed-solder_terminals. Maybe the cable is too thin? Which heatbed do you have, is it insulated from below? What is written on the MOSFet? ( Q3 especially ) Does it get hot? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Hi guys, I tried to rotate a cube 45° and translate it to the right position, but the result leaves a small gap I cannot explain. See the #highlighted code at the end and the screenshot. What´s wrong with my math? -Olaf union(){ translate ([40,0,10])mirror([1,0,1]){ translate ([0,0,10])difference(){ cube([10,10,20]); translate([5,5,-0.001]) cylinder(h=20.002,r=3);by o_lampe - OpenSCAD
Quotesungod3k There will always be at least two unused endstops in any printer config and they work. with other pins you need to first find out their function. eg pin 0 and 1 have something todo with the serial connection i think so they should be used for this. Please write shouldn´t or should not. You are confusing people with your bad english. Sorry, don´t take it personal -Olafby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi guys, I sliced a herringbone gear with Cura and added two "pause @ z" sessions at 5.6mm and 6.4mm. I wanted to change filament color that way, since I only have one extruder. The problem is, once the printer triggered the first pause, the extruder lifts up and parks somewhere ( 0,0 ?) But the lift of the 1st pause already triggers the 2nd pause. When I noticed, that the second pause was overdby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have disassambled a few CD-Roms and 5.25 floppy drives myself, but never found stepper motors? These usually are brushless DC motors that need a 3 phase ESC. Or am I on the wrong path? I found many steppers in old copymachines and laserprinters, but they usually can´t do microstepping. Do you have pictures of the motors? -Olafby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Good News! Does the motherbord send the color information from the g-code? With a preview/countdown, when the next extruder should start heating up It would be great, if the daughterboard could also tell the motherboard to take a break until the next extruder is hot. -Olafby o_lampe - Developers
QuoteApple- Hey everyone! Extremely pleased to announce that I have solved my extruder issues! The issue was actually a loose screw on the gear inside the stepper motor. Here's a picture for a better look. Just gave it a nice tighten and everything is golden! Will still probably print a new extruder soon, though. Glad to hear! The stepper shaft doesn´t have a flat side? If so, better putby o_lampe - Reprappers
I had no problem with my prints, until I used the "set home offset" function. I have x-axis endstop configured as max. endstop. When I raised my z-axis by 0.1mm and stored this in EEprom, I also set X to "0". -Olafby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
3.75V is almost 10 times the regular current. I`m sure that is impossible....Can you switch the driverboard? Let it run without filament, but at +180° Is that working? What diameter is your extruder gear, and what did you set as e-step parameter? Are you sure, the extruder runs in the right direction? Make a mark on the shaft with a pen and see which direction it is turning. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers