I have a modified meanwell 350W PS. I can crank up the voltage beyond 14V. Unfortunately, I also use this PSU to power a 12V halogen lamp. So I have to print in the dark, when using more than 12V. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
I printed a few different bearings from thingiverse, but found, they bind too much on the rod. I only have PLA. I printed rescaled samples in 99, 100, 101% size to see which would work best. Unfortunately, I have a halfshell bushing that doesn´t support the bearing completely. Now I´m back to the metall ones. Just bought another dozend and selected "good" from bad. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Bad contact somewhere causing voltage drop? When I tried to get 100° fisrt time, I raised the voltage up to 14V because I was stuck at 90°. The last 10° took about 2 mins only! After that test, my thermistor acted weird, sending false temps intermittendly. I found, that both wires to the thermistor had become unsoldered. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Thanks to all of you! It would´ve never come to my mind to look in thingiverse for the file... -Olaf Now I can customize my print.. Christmas presents, here they comeby o_lampe - OpenSCAD
There is such thing as "color-.stl" fileformat, where color information is included. Now we need a board that can handle 3 or more extruders. ( 5 would be nice for cyan, magenta, yellow, black, white ) The only board I know is the duel board with arduino due processor. But the guys who developed the diamond-nozzle, may have their own design in the pipeline? Time will tell, if there is demand forby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
That sounds, like you have a bad contact somewhere. Bad solderjoint or broken cable. Perhaps a possible shortcut... Check your wires and boards, please -Olafby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Quotethejollygrimreaper did it work with a previous version? I don´t know. I just started with openSCAD, was used to use SolidWorks before. I also get another warning DEPRECATED: The assign() module will be removed in future releases. Use a regular assignment instead. Probably that happend to the write.scad module too? This geared cube is one of the most popular things on thingiverse, it wasby o_lampe - OpenSCAD
The PID Settings will not influence the "accuracy" of the sensor ( and the curve that Marlin uses for it) PID only helps to keep the expected temperature as precise as possible( false reading or not ). To adjust the temperature you have different values for both sensors. You´ll have to find out which temp-value on each nozzle works best for you. For the same filament, this can be different valby o_lampe - Reprappers
I have no experience with drying PLA, but I wouldn´t want to risk deformation or baking from too high temperatures. Depending on the reliability of your oven, I´d start with 50°C and leave it there for a few hours. A bigger spool takes longer to dry inside. I have all my spools in ziplock plastic bags together with a handful of rice. That helps to keep humidity down. ( Well my oldes spool is 4by o_lampe - Reprappers
@mardy Did you start this molding thread only to discuss different all_metall_extruders? If you want to bring reprap development further, please keep this thread focussed on the molding theme... -Olafby o_lampe - General
Hi guys, I rendered the" cubed gears" from emmett: But I got error warnings about write.scad not found. One of the features of this print is to put your own text in it. But that doesn´t work with my latest version of openSCAD ( 2015-03-1) use ..... Font = "write/Letters.dxf";//["write/Letters.dxf":Basic,"write/orbitron.dxf":Futuristic,"write/BlackRose.dxf":Fancy] What can I do to make it woby o_lampe - OpenSCAD
Wrong retract can cause spikes, but usually only on one edge. Printing to fast can cause all edges to look like the extruder "overshoots" I´ve reduced the "outer shell" speed to 30mm/s. The rest is 50-60mm. Full speed ( without extruding) is 100mm. -Olafby o_lampe - General
#define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. What about this line? Does it has to be set "false" then? -Olafby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Kapton tape between heatsink and FET would insulate the sink. As long, as the screw to fix the heatsink doesn´t make contact. -Olafby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Hangover? I´m a newbie, and I´m pretty happy with the support I received here. Although some guys seem to be biased a bit to "sell" their own stuff. -Olafby o_lampe - General
If you are still looking for a name, my suggestion is: The Expandable, because with a bigger heated bed, we only have to replace a few straight aluminum bars to get a bigger print area. The gear of the x-carrier looks like it is straight geared, no slackfree gears? I like the wide y-table rails,but they would now have more lever to make the table wobble with only one gear under the table. ( oby o_lampe - Reprappers
I´ve once made an aluminum cast twin carburettor manifold for an old Mini cooper. It was pretty messy and took lots of grinding afterwards. But it worked. For simpler parts, I´d ask a machining shop to do it. A Wade´s extruder in metal would need a complete new construction ( e.g. reducing wall thickness ). I´m using a MK8 Extruder and it works fine so far. Only had one clogged nozzle, because Iby o_lampe - General
The four coordinates seem to specify a rectangle, in which your "grid" measurement takes place. -Olafby o_lampe - General
You are building a 3D printer without a multimeter at hand? It comes handy several times during setup... You could easily answer this questin with it. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Hi, I was wondering, if anyone has tried to print with sugar-gel to create unique icing-figures? Imagine bride and broom on the weddingcake are lookalikes of the real ones. Or something funny, like Homer & Marge I thought, a powder(sugar) printer and an extruder, that bonds the powder with colored sugargel, would end up in a million dollar business Or gingerbread hearts with a customizedby o_lampe - Developers
...what Frank said! And don´t print huge parts, before you are satisfied with the test-cube results. To test retraction behaviour, you better print two cubes with a bit distance between them. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Printing on glass, should result in a mirror-like bottom. I´d reduce the nozzle height a bit until you see the ABS squashed down the surface a bit. I use lemon juice to clean and prime the glass at the same time. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
I´m surprised, how huge the gap between the gear and the tube is. My tube sits right under the gear. This way the extruder can push the filament through, even when it gets pretty soft. That won´t help against clogging, though. I´m not an experienced printer, but when I change filament, I loose the tensioner screw and pull out the still hot filament. ( Do it fast in one motion ) In 9 of 10 timby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
When you have too much water in the filament, you can probably hear it vapourizing in the nozzle. ( when it leaves the nozzle, to be specific ) -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
QuoteRetraction speed 20mm Retraction distance 0.8. I have a direct drive and retract 4.5mm at 60mm/s ( higher speed and the right lenght are the key) With a bowden setup, you might need even more length I also lift z-axis after retract 0.075mm. This will help with a few of your problems. My prints got better, with belt tensioners installed. Better bearings for x &y are on the list, too. -by o_lampe - General
Just found that in Marlin // M240 Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote // Data from: // #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23 -Olafby o_lampe - General
Not R1, it´s one of the resistors marked on my picture ( red or blue box ) -Olafby o_lampe - General
When you slice a new part, you can change the behaviour at the start/ end of the print. This should solve your problem. Cura lifts the extruder 25 mm at the end of a print. Then homes x & y Or you reduce the table size, such that the extruder doesn´t come close to the binder clips. -Olafby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
QuotegatorNic Quotetommy-b-10 Yup manage to work out that my psu wasn't grounded correctly, causing the voltage to be seen as wrong by the mega. Solution was to manually connect a cable between V- and ground on the psu. How did you figure out that it wasn't grounded correctly? So you put a wire between an open slot V- and the ground or did you wire it to the V- slot that was going to the MEGA?by o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Seems, like the nozzle temp is to low. The filament looks still greasy instead of fluent. Do you dry your filament, before you use it? Probably it has sucked up too much water over time? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers