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Robots, children's blocks, wooden clocks, its all good! Here's my idea and here's the [[page]] on RepRap's wiki where we can log in and click "edit".
Re: How to calculate correct voltage for stepper driver ? - 9 years ago
If you have "r100" shunt resistors on your driver ( most common) you can skip the math and say 0.4V equals 0.4 A -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: More powerful heated bed? - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 One disadvantage of glass is that because of its low thermal conductivity, it is difficult to get reliable temperature measurements on top of it. That´s right, but it also has low thermal capacity, that´s why it gets hot pretty quick and cold as well. ( compared to metal or wood) There is a good reason, why we use silicon pads or grease to connect semiconductors with heatsinks... (by o_lampe - General
Re: Molding techniques for making extruder parts - 9 years ago
We could even use water solible filament to mold more complex parts. Like AquaSolve Water Dissolving PVA from MakerGeeks. We can surely smooth the printed part with a sponge and water? -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Ripples on edges... - 9 years ago
Yes, you´re right. The table always tries to go the way of lowest resistance. It looks like a "figure 8". Although I´m happy with the forgiving softness of the acrylic table. Z-min endstop and the nozzle have an ongoing fight and the table acts as a bumper sometimes. Another point on my todo-list -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: marlin firmware - 9 years ago
It takes a minute to compile the code ( at least on my Celeron Laptop ) Also, there are two buttons on the top-left corner of the IDE: "verify" and "upload". You´ve set the right COM-port and board-type in Arduino-IDE? -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Ripples on edges... - 9 years ago
I thought so, especially my LM8UU are rattling sometimes, making the whole printer hop from the table It would be nice to have an algorhythm, that prevents harmonic resonance. Just alter the printspeed by a small random number up or down ( say 10% +/- ) We´d have to look for all "g1"-commands in a g-code file and change the "Fxxxx" numbers randomly. Note to myself Write this postprocessing cby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Molding techniques for making extruder parts - 9 years ago
A few parts are too complex to mold them, but the idea of recycling the scrap PLA that piles up under my printer is pretty tempting. And we could do some surface smoothing/edging etc. as well to make better parts. To overcome shrinking issues, you could print the part larger ( ie. scale it with Cura ), depending on the shrinkrate stated by the supplier of the silicone/whatever stuff. Imagine prby o_lampe - General
Re: More powerful heated bed? - 9 years ago
If you´ve told us about the airgap from the beginning, this discussion would´t have been alot shorter, I guess... ( and less informative ) If I were in your shoes, I´d get a nice MK3 heatbed. It is flat and has an aluminum side to print on or you could use kapton or the glass plate and bottom insulation you already have. It also puzzles me, why we talk about borosilicate glass vs. float glassby o_lampe - General
Re: Prusa I3 first "print" - what am I doing wrong? - 9 years ago
Welcome to the club You`ll get used to it. I use an allen head screw to have better access to the z-min stop-adjuster screw. You can invest money and install an autoadjust sensor/probe. -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Extruder suddenly not working - 9 years ago
When it spins and the nozzle isn´t clogged, the only thing I can think of is a problem with the e-steps. Did you accidently change them? I`ve seen my smart-LCD crash, after I switched on a HQI-lamp in the room. They are error prone and probably loose data? Try M503 command and see what the e-steps are. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: More powerful heated bed? - 9 years ago
You could use thinner glass. Mine is 1.6mm ( approx. half the thickness of yours ) It is from cheap picture frames. I also took the MDF-backplate and clamped it underneath the heatbed. Isolation helps alot! Build a hull around the printer to avoid a fresh breeze cooling down the edges. Finally, you could raise the voltage ( upto 16V if you have a 16V polyfuse ) to speed up the heating. ( not rby o_lampe - General
Re: How do you round the top and bottom of a tube? - 9 years ago
translate([0,0,rad/4])rotate_extrude()translate()circle(r=rad/4); I love it, how we have to read from right to left, to understand, what´s going on Or in other cases, "from bottom up" -Olafby o_lampe - OpenSCAD
Re: Need Help With Setting Up Marlin - 9 years ago
You "know" the pitch of your leadscrews, now you only have to calculate how many steps/mm are required. Depends on the Drivers. I´d recomment drv8825@1/32 stepping for those beefy Steppers. You should set the speed and max. acceleration values low at the beginning. The tricky part is assigning the endstops and stepperdirection in marlin. You can mess up the orientation with one wrong setting.by o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Fried Mega 2560 with RAMPS 1.4 - 9 years ago
How about a Laptop PSU? They should be isolated or not? My concern is more on the Mega board: There are several power-routes ( 12V barrel-connector vs. 5V USB ) that "should" disable each other, But when they fail, it can get smelly. IE. when the USB voltage is too low or any of the components has a bad solder contact, it can fail. -Olafby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Designing a reliable and accurate Z axis. - 9 years ago
What I also don´t like with this kind of printer, is : the heavy weight is at the top of the printer. Every moved mass has a perfect lever to bend and twist the frame. So it has to be extra stiff. When I first saw the hobbyking fabrikator, I was amazed. But while I studied the design, I cooled down pretty fast and bought a prusa I3 instead. -Olafby o_lampe - Mechanics
Re: [Chinese Full Kit] Rp3d Prusa i3 - 9 years ago
@Chris, this thread is 3 month old, He has surely bought a printer until now. About the link to your website: The printer on the picture has some weak points. For example the front of the y-frame is not stiff enough. The y-belt will pull constantly until the tension is too loose. The coupling on the z-motors is too close to the motor, You´re blocking the motion that way, or you have to cut thby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Extruder suddenly not working - 9 years ago
What is the temperature of the extruder, when you try to print g-code? There is a safety-value in marlin at 170°C IIRC. Below that point, you can´t extrude. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Printing ABS without ABS juice - 9 years ago
I´m using bottled lemon juice to clean my glass and so far I´m happy with the result. It cleans and leaves a thin sugar coating at the same time. ( same or better effect than hairspray ) And the smell is fresh -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: PRINT WOOD - 9 years ago
In Cura this function is called " tweak @ z" But the butane idea I like better -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Time lapse video - 9 years ago
For my RC-Octocopter I use a mobius "Action Cam" that also does timelapse. But I thought, it would be usefull to have the printer trigger the camera, every x slices. Or y-times per slice. I would use a camshaft-like gear on the z-rod to manually trigger a mechanical or optical switch. But I have so much stuff on my todo list, It will take a while to work the timelaps-trigger wheel out. Maybe soby o_lampe - General
Max extruder temp doesn´t match? - 9 years ago
I reduced max. hotend temp to 220°C and flashed it a while ago. When I use smart LCD to Change nozzle temp during a print, I can only set it to 205°C max! Even, when I set the nozzle temp in Cura to 210°C, it starts printing with 210°C but when I manually overwrite the value, it is max´d at 205°C again. Do I have to increase max nozzle temp in marlin by 15°C to be able to adjust it to 220°C? -Oby o_lampe - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Curiosity about squaring various i3 y-frames to the z frame. - 9 years ago
I had to assemble and disassamble my frame a few times now and worked up a method to align the 3 axes: Let´s assume the y-frame is not twisted and the screws were tightened on a flat surface with all four corner blocks on the ground. Now insert the y-frame in the notches of the ( acrylic ) frame but only tighten one of the four screws. ( say the rear left ) Then measure the distance from the leby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: one stepper +5 filaments = dog box shifting! 
- 9 years ago
To drive 5 extruders with a bowden concept, you couldn´t use RAMPS/Mega combos anymore. Last night I made some sketches for a compact, simple design with only one lever. I used to work with SolidWorks, but I don´t have access to it anymore. I´m just starting with OpenSCAD, It will take a while, before I can present anything. -Olafby o_lampe - Developers
Re: can i work without lcd screen? - 9 years ago
Yes, you can use pronterface instead. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: How can I get the x axis smooth rods parallel to the bed plane ? - 9 years ago
Quotetolisn Hi and thanks for the reply. So you think that the y-axis carrier is not aligned correctly and that is why the y-axis bed plane is not parallel with the x-axis smooth rods? What modifications/upgrades did you do to your printer ? Nothing is aligned properly on my kit. Everytime I fastened one part, something else got out of line. All three axes have to be recangular to each other. Iby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Help me decide which Prusa i3 to buy - 9 years ago
Doesn´t it depend, where you live? I got mine from berlin, ´cause I live in germany. Why pay so much for shipping? Why not support your local dealer instead? Something was missing in the parcel, who can react faster? Local dealer.... You have questions, but can´t express them in english ( or the chinese seller suddenly don´t understand what your problem is) ? Talk to you local dealer in your natby o_lampe - General
one stepper +5 filaments = dog box shifting! - 9 years ago
Today, if you want to use several colors on your printer, you have to deal with one stepper per color. For more than 2 colors the only option until now is to use bowden-style remote steppers for each color. But in car racing we use "dog box" gears. ( see example-picture ) Why don´t we put several gears on an extended stepper shaft and shift through the colors on_the_fly ? I have a picture of anby o_lampe - Developers
Re: Ripples on edges... - 9 years ago
Quotesarf2k4 looks fine to me except the layers looks quite thick Do you refer to the first picture I uploaded? Those ripples / echoes are normal? Layer was 0.3mm with a 0.4 nozzle -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: How can I get the x axis smooth rods parallel to the bed plane ? - 9 years ago
On the back of the Achatz frame are slots for the M8 rods as well as in the middle of the frame. Put the y-carrier on a flat surface, and align the frame. The tighten the screws that hold frame and y-carrier together. Locknuts were a bad idea in that place....better use a drop of hotglue after final assembly. I disassembled my frame a few times in the first week, because I printed some upgradeby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: 3d printed terminator - t800 desktop usb toy - 9 years ago
Cool, this thing looks creepy! Did you use silver filament or sprayed it afterwards? Can you put a servo mechanism inside, that would move the eyes left/right? -Olafby o_lampe - Look what I made!