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Robots, children's blocks, wooden clocks, its all good! Here's my idea and here's the [[page]] on RepRap's wiki where we can log in and click "edit".
where to discuss Marlin stuff? - 9 years ago
Hi Guys, I have been pretty active in this forum, since I subscribed. But I haven´t found the right subforum to discuss marlin issues.?! Is there a separate forum? -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Ripples on edges... - 9 years ago
It seems, the belt tension was too low. I installed adjustable belt tensioners and it got better. I made a speed test with the infamous 20mm cube. I started with 40mm/s. Every 2mm I increased speed about 20% and ended at 280%. ( 112mm/s )The edges looked all the same from bottom to top, but the ripples changed. Still unsure, what it is -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Any ideas?? - 9 years ago
My prints looked the same, until I raised the z-endstop. It seems your nozzle is too close to the table? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Looking at building a Large FDM - 9 years ago
Today, I printed a 15cm long part and it warped on all 4 edges. Hard to imagine, how you will fight this problem with a 100cm piece.. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: lemon juice vs. fingerprints on glass - 9 years ago
Haven´t tried it on a cold bed, yet. Would take forever to get dry.... Today I tried to print a huge LCD2004 cover. It took 4 hours and came out warped at all 4 edges Would it be better to try it on a cold bed?by o_lampe - General
Re: FolgerTech Z-axis only moving in -ve dir - 9 years ago
Did you try to switch the z stepper cable to the x- or y-driver? See, if it works then... Maybe you need to "home" the rrinter before you can move all axis? ( just guessing ) -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Z Axis position report wrong on homing - 9 years ago
Quote#define Z_HOME_DIR 1 Make it -1 and you´re done. Do you have the y-endstop set as max on purpose? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Where to get quality lm8uu linear bearings - 9 years ago
Probably it´s a good idea to turn the steel rods a few degrees on regular base? That way they´d last longer, I´d say. What do you think? -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
lemon juice vs. fingerprints on glass - 9 years ago
Hi guys, I want to share a observation I made: I regularly clean the glass doors of my terrariums with bottled lemon juice. It helps a lot to get rid of those chalk stains from spraying water to raise humidity. Anyways, I also use it to clean the glassplate of my printer and the PLA parts really stick well afterwards. Not only all fingerprints, sweat, tears and whatnot are gone, but also the lby o_lampe - General
Re: Looking at building a Large FDM - 9 years ago
After reading all those numbers, it would be clear to me to look for another ( but boring ) way. Build a 5 axis CNC machine that fulfills your 1m³ requirement. Use it to build positive models from cheap styrofoam and cover them with polyester/glassfibre & epoxy-resin to finally build the part, you´re looking after. Still a challenge to build the machine yourself and much cheaper too -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Where to get quality lm8uu linear bearings - 9 years ago
Maybe the slotted adjustable linear BB is the right answer? On the bay I could also find HQ balls to replace the crappy chinese ones. Maybe worth to dig for ceramic balls? They can run without grease and have the lowest friction. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: ULTRA-FAST reprap, project development - 9 years ago
You should at least go for 3mm Extruders. Your bikegear-tube won´t do it. Better look for classic motorbike tubes. They should be able to fit 3mm filament. My concern is from a certain speed, your melted PLA will "fly away" in sharp bents and corners. And cooling down the material is another point. Don´t expext high accuracy at high speed. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Looking at building a Large FDM - 9 years ago
I think, the delta design needs a second chance here. If you have a small room with headroom of 2.5meters, you can actually use the "problem" of the tall delta design to your advantage. Just build the top of the delta right under your ceiling. That would give your design extra stablility. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Extruder Motor dreht in Marlin nicht obwohl hotend Temperatur auf 150°C - 9 years ago
Bleiben noch zwei Möglichkeiten: Driverboard vom Extruder ist defekt/ Stromeinstellung zu niedrig. => Driver tauschen, nochmal testen. oder e-steps bei Marlin sind auf "0" Bei mir sieht die Zeile so aus: Quote#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0,80.0, 8000.0, 185.0} Wobei der letzte Wert für die e-steps gelten. Wenn du Cura verwendest, kannst du die e-steps auch unter "Geräte-Einstelby o_lampe - Elektrik & Elektronik
Re: [Sintron] Prusa i3 - 9 years ago
QuoteblackLion 11 for both You mean this one? 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup) Depends on the Marlin version you are using, I guess... I have good results with 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup) Sounds similar, but it is the nonlinearity, that makes the difference... -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Ripples on edges... - 9 years ago
Hi, I´m getting quite some good results so far. Everything is scale and rectangular etc... But there are these annoying dimples behind the edges. How can I get rid of them? I installed an y-belt tensioner, because it happens always after y-direction turns towards y-Zero. But it didn´t help. I also have a few smaller waves in the surface. Thats related to the crappy LM8UU. Thx -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: [Sintron] Prusa i3 - 9 years ago
Don´t rise temperature. I`m printing fine with 200°C. Probably something is wrong with your temperature sensor? Does it have good contact with the hotend? What type of sensor did you choose in Marlin Setup? I chose "type 1" for both sensors. ( hotend and heatbed ) and it works fine. -Olaf One thing, that can go wrong when you fill in the filament: You can miss the hole of the coldend. In the begby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: [Sintron] Prusa i3 - 9 years ago
I have the same printer and had to use "93" steps per mm. because the wheel on the extruder stepper is bigger. When you changed that value and it still doesn´t feed correct, you have to tighten the allen-screw ontop of the extruder to raise friction. I made a mark on the shaft to see, if it is spinning or skipping steps. If it is skipping, raise the current on the A4988 Driver . Is your acryliby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
SD Card hotplug on smart LCD? - 9 years ago
The title says it all: Can I unplug the sd-card without switching the ramps off? Thx -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Accel value and Marlin? - 9 years ago
About eeprom use: I played around with arduino-based "multiwii"-quadcopters. Everytime I changed something, it was good practice to run an "erase all eeprom data" program, before flashing the new firmware with updated values. Is it neccessary here too? -Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Bed material questions (PEI vs. Kapton) - 9 years ago
QuotePraeitas Finally, and this is more a matter of curiosity than anything else. Has anybody tried using a film of cured epoxy? AFAIK, Epoxy sweats out some sort of oil, making it hard to glue anything on it permanently. Quotethis website should be a national treasure. But if it were, the gov't would probably ruin it. Well, it´s a mondial treasure! No local gov´t can ruin it -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: More accurate Z home sensor..? - 9 years ago
QuoteKDog I installed a hall-effect sensor on my Prusa i2. Got it in a Ramps kit off of ebay. You can adjust the depth on them using a potentiometer on pcb which makes them very sensitive and precise. Do you have a link? THX -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Fired up heat bed - 9 years ago
Wow, that´s a huge table! Do you need to heat up the whole table all the time? I´m pretty sure the resistive wire hung loose in the middle, while it was hot? You might need a support structure there to have constant distance to the glass. Or you could split the heating element in two pieces (or even four ) and heat up only a small part of the table for smaller parts. The ovendoor glass might noby o_lampe - General
Re: More accurate Z home sensor..? - 9 years ago
This might be a good read for you I´d like to implement an analog z-stop for my prusa i3. More like a potmeter. But I don´t know much about Marlin and RAMPS yet. -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Design Z Axis End Stops Best Practices - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 RepRapFirmware for Duet electronics does exactly that. Wow awesome, but I couldn´t find a hint about z-axis sensors... 5 Extruders would suit fine for my full-color "hedgehog" hotend....yumm Olafby o_lampe - Developers
Re: Getriebe-Schrittmotor 28BYJ-48 - eine Anschlussfrage - 9 years ago
Ich kenne diese Stepper von den Arduino-foren. So weit ich weiß, brauchen die eine etwas andere Stepperfolge für kraftvolles Stepping. Es spricht bei dem Preis und dem niedrigen Gewicht nichts dagegen, zwei Motoren vis-a´-vis an ein Extruder-Rad zu basteln. Dann leben auch die Lager länger. Man bräuchte nur ein Rad mit Madenschrauben auf jeder Seite. Oder man verbindet die Achsen über die zweiteby o_lampe - Elektrik & Elektronik
Re: Nozzle blocks at the exact same point in the print - 9 years ago
QuoteBen.folkes I've just done a test on a large perimeter as you say and it printed fine but it's on this print specifically at the same layer. I've resliced it and it hasn't helped. The 3d model has a section where two extruded objects intersect each other as it was the easiest way to design it so I was wondering if the fact there are overlaps in the stl make a difference? Thanks for the help sby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: PLA in yellow, magenta, cyan? - 9 years ago
Haha, typical me! I always come too late with my ideas... Although I´m interested how the Diamond nozzle is able to print lighter or darker colors? My design would mix white and black into the three other colors and you´d have real full color printing.... Also it wouldn´t be neccessary to put these huge cooling fins on each extruder, the heat spreads now on 3 extruders ( or 5 in my case ) therby o_lampe - General
Re: PLA in yellow, magenta, cyan? - 9 years ago
Ooops, you read my mind... I banged my head this morning and made a drawing of a flux-compensator... Not really, it´s just an idea for a single hotend with 5 extruder inputs on it. Looks like a hedgehog Only missing cyan to print full color rainbows and unicorns, hehe -Olaf just added a quick and dirty sketch of the hotend. Black, white, yellow, cyan, magenta filament from the sides. heatingby o_lampe - General
Re: Design Z Axis End Stops Best Practices - 9 years ago
I have a broken thumb throttle from my e-bike laying here. It sends out a very smooth linear signal ,depending on the distance between magnet and hall sensor. Wouldn´t it be beneficial, if Marlin would "see the endstop coming" and reduce z-speed during z-home procedure, until a programmed value is matched? It could even tell the precise distance. I don´t know if any of the above mentioned sensoby o_lampe - Developers