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Robots, children's blocks, wooden clocks, its all good! Here's my idea and here's the [[page]] on RepRap's wiki where we can log in and click "edit".
Re: Using ramps with bigger stepper drivers? - 9 years ago
QuoteJamesK They have higher resistance coils, so take a greater voltage to drive the 1A. Work is VI, so the laws of physics remain unbroken. I'd expect the DRV8825 to drive them fine, but you'd probably need 24 to 36V to get good step rates and that would present a challenge if you host the drivers on a RAMPS board. a good quality RAMPS will have 35V capacitors, so it should be possible to run iby o_lampe - General
Re: Design Z Axis End Stops Best Practices - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 On a non-delta printer, if you have a Z-probe (also called a proximity sensor), then you don't need a Z end stop at all. A proximity sensor is a magnet and a hall sensor, right? How would RAMPS/Marlin work with such an analog sensor? I think, I have some laying around, would be nice to know how to implement it. Olafby o_lampe - Developers
Re: Feeding force measurement for bowden feeder - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 Interesting idea! Another approach would be to use a geared DC motor for the extruder drive instead of a stepper motor, with an optical rotary encoder to provide feedback, and measure the motor current to determine the force being provided. You want to use a dc motor to do the work of a stepper? Good luck with stopping the motor precisely. Even if you had a 3600 steps/rev Encoder, it pby o_lampe - Developers
PLA in yellow, magenta, cyan? - 9 years ago
Hi guys, I found yellow and magenta PLA but no cyan/türkis. Would be nice to know, if anyone had a link for me?! THX Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: Nozzle blocks at the exact same point in the print - 9 years ago
You could design a similar part, that has the long print " long line down the perimeter of the part " right at the beginning of the print. That way, you´d find out if it´s a temperature problem occuring after 40mins. or a general feed-issue. -Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: newbie help getting started - 9 years ago
Hi, I´m newbie too, but learned a lot during the last week with reading this forum up and down. I bought a Sintron prusa i3, because they were the cheapest on the bay. But the old saying is again true: Buy cheap-buy twice... Their acrylic frame is only 5mm thick, which is a joke because the square holes, that should lock the frameparts together are made for 6mm thickness. Also the screws forby o_lampe - General
Re: Using ramps with bigger stepper drivers? - 9 years ago
Hi! There are planetary gear for steppers out there. If speed isn´t a concern, you could use 12V and low amps and still have plenty of torque! -Olafby o_lampe - General
Re: motor shaft coupler too flexible? - 9 years ago
Good News, coincidently I found 4.5mm bullets are dead cheap. Lots of 1500 or 5000pcs. for airguns are available without the need to slaughter a ball bearing. That´s plenty of z-rods improvement. ( At least it improves the "peace of mind" factor for me ) Probably they are not perfectly round, but in my case, that dosn´t matter. Olafby o_lampe - Mechanics
Re: Extruder stepper motor temperature? - 9 years ago
Quotealexella All I know is that the more I increase the temperature, the more I risk demagnetization. This is true, but steppers rarely have any magnets inside... I´d take a close look for stepper current, because of the stepper drivers. They are the weakest part in the chain IMHO Olafby o_lampe - Mechanics
Re: Objects don't print the correct size.. - 9 years ago
Quotehuntleybill ...Also, when I print something with a hole in it, the hole is never the size it should be. A 10mm hole will be 9.1 mm for example. It seems, x/y is OK, Printing holes horizontally would cause the hole to become elliptic because z-axis steps is set too low. If the hole is vertical and too small all the way round, you might play with the extruder retract value and speed. Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Maxtemp error - 9 years ago
Quotefoul_owl I think there might be an issue with the thermistor setting in the firmware then, since I am getting delamination even at 295C. I set the thermistor to type to "5" in the marlin firmware as described in the documentation. Any thoughts? Thanks! Like dougal already said: the sensor can´t show temps above 300°C. Your hotend may be much hotter, but the ramps doesn`t notice You can´tby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Hotend Problems - 9 years ago
Hi, what kind of extruder do you have? Did you try to push PLA through the heated nozzle by hand? Maybe the PLA doesn´t find the way into the nozzle? PTFE tube is crumpled or something else is blocking... 210°C is more than enough to melt PLA. Good luck Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Power supply for using 6V 1.2A motors? - 9 years ago
I just got a prusa i3 mechanical kit and electronics from Sintron. They claimed, everything is included but the powersupply. That isn`t entirely true. Especially the mechanics weren´t complete. ( Also the acrylic frame is only 5mm thick instead of the usual 6mm ) The electronics kit I got, was OK though. Only missed a y-cable to power two z-steppers with one driver... I saved 100EUR buying fromby o_lampe - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Dual Extruder heating issue. - 9 years ago
QuoteIf it's not advisable to do it this way, how do people power two all metal hotends through a Ramps board? Probably they use two relais switched by the ramps boards? That would be a safe option and the current through the fuse is almost narda. Olafby o_lampe - Mechanics
Re: motor shaft coupler too flexible? - 9 years ago
Quote3dkarma Stick a ball bearing down the hole. Stops the compression and keeps the flexibility. Thanks 3dkarma! At first I was puzzled by your suggestion, but then the penny dropped..you´re talking about a single ball! Sure that´s the best way to reach my goal. I wouldn´t be happy if I had to dance around in a cold spring night Olafby o_lampe - Mechanics
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 9 years ago
OK, Im glad to hear that. If it is a solid state Relais, in fact it is a semiconductor already. If it is a mechanical relais, be aware, that they tend to "stick" when they actually should switch "open". I hope you`re using Marlin with the "thermal runaway" option enabled... Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Antikythera mechanism - 9 years ago
Hi Guys, since I saw a documentation on TV about the Discovery and Analysis of the ancient Antikythera mechanism, I wanted to build a 3d printed version of it. In archeology, this was something "Indiana Jones" would have searched for. The oldest, most complex clock/calender/navigator ever found. Unfortunately, I don´t have the right CAD-Software to do it. But if anyone feels the urge to buildby o_lampe - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: motor shaft coupler too flexible? - 9 years ago
QuoteAndrewBCN Ditto here. You can try to print with and without a ball bearing inside the coupler and report on any observed differences. Again personally I doubt there will be any. Other things you can try that I personally doubt will make any difference in print quality (or at least any measurable/observable improvement along the Z-axis): - Wrap the coupler in duct tape (hey, duct tape usuaby o_lampe - Mechanics
Re: Custom 3D printer lead screws - 9 years ago
When 8mm pitch is too much, why don´t you use gears between leadscrew and stepper? There are gears with no slack, so you wouldn´t lower the accuracy. Imagine,one day the stepper/leadscrew combo failes . Replacing a separate stepper is much easier done.. Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 9 years ago
Quoteitchytweed Word to the wise... the heated bed on this beast draws 34 amps at 14.2 volts. Luckily, I have a 50 amp supply. Finished up making the wiring neat and some wire tie manufacturer is rubbing their hands just a bit more... Do you connect the heatbed right through the Ramps board, or do you use some kind of (solid-state-) relais? Now you can print a mrs. monster Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
motor shaft coupler too flexible? - 9 years ago
Hi guys, I got these couplings with my prusa i3 kit. I was surprised how soft they were and how easy I could compress them vertically. Now I´m wondering, if that would reduce z-axis accuracy? Imagine your extruder is on the far left side, where also the x-stepper is. The whole weight would compress the left coupling a bit. Printing in the center or even on the right side, would compress the rby o_lampe - Mechanics
Re: new to 3d printin looking to dive in - 9 years ago
I just read this article about stepper drivers: There is a section about different shunt resistors ( 0.05-0.2ohm) being used on different clones... Depending on that, you can check your new arrivals and recalculate the Vref if neccessary. ( the article also mentioned, NEVER unplug the stepper, while powered ) So we´ve certainly found a "winner" Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: How to mount the table´s smooth rails? - 9 years ago
Ok Andrew, you convinced to jump in the cold water and it worked fine... Ofcourse I forgot to put the 3 LM8UU bearings, before I shove the rods in all blocks, but the second time it was much easier. Thanks again Olaf PS: Andrew, just read your wiki comparison of the a4988 vs. drv8825. Well done, but I´d like to send you a comment about it.by o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: How to mount the table´s smooth rails? - 9 years ago
Thanks Andrew, I´m still unsure, if I can snap the rods in or have to push them in? Pushing them in is difficult, because of the coarse layers. The rod will constantly try to press the layers apart. ( my rods have sharp edges. Don´t have a grinder at hand to taper the edges) Snapping the rod in is also risky, because of the huge stretch. Anyone succesfully snapped the rods in? Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Can not compile without errors... please help - 9 years ago
ArduinoIDE says, you haven´t defined these variables. //const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. //const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. //const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. //const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to tby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: new to 3d printin looking to dive in - 9 years ago
How are the odds for buying steppers nowadays, that are NOT able to do 1/16 microsteps? Background: I sourced my steppers I used to play with from old copymachines. They hardly do 1/2 steps, better use fullsteps only.... Just thinking out of the box Olaf PS: Did you try to reduce speed and acceleration settings?by o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Sintron LCD 2004 smart display - installation issues - 9 years ago
I know it is an older thread, but I´d like to know, why you defined the "ultipanel" ? I`d define the "REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER" line. Did you make it work without USB-power? THX Olafby o_lampe - Reprappers
Re: Ahh! Broke the X Axis need parts - 9 years ago
That depends where you live? I´ve seen a few complete plastik part sets on the bay. Some are made from ABS.. Would be nice to hear from the experts, if these were preferable? Olafby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
How to mount the table´s smooth rails? - 9 years ago
Yippieh, I just got my Sintron Prusa i3 and started to build it. I don´t have a build instruction, so I have to figure out a few things: 1. How do I push the table smooth rods into the corner blocks? Snap-in from the top or push it in sideways? 2. Do you grind the M5 threaded rods flat to fit the stepper-coupling? I sure have more question, when I got further into the built. Is there a generby o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: new to 3d printin looking to dive in - 9 years ago
I was wrong about the driver voltage readings. For the A4988 driver 350-550mV is standard.by o_lampe - Prusa i3 and variants