Quotejinx QuoteOrigamib Preferably you would want to put it directly to the plastic and then apply adhesive. Have you considered water transfers? I use them for printed stuff all the time. thats sounds like a belting plan " like the old airfix graphs or those temporary tats." googling right now thou am faced with a wall of hydro dipping at the mo. If you got a link too an how to make custby Origamib - General
Quotejinx QuoteAndorNot @ jinx, maybe you could print your own personalised surface with paper or another material and stick it to the back of my print bed material and then stick a 3m double sided adhesive to this, also available from my website in 8 inch and 12 inch. that aint how I imagined it work a paper print attached to glue side would/possible look crap and distorted and loose the transpaby Origamib - General
Looks great! Any chance on an instructable on how to cut it? Is it similar to acrylic or glass where you score and snap? Also, have you found any materials that won't print on this? The list of materials sounds extensive enough for day to day printing anyway so will be buying this regardless How do you clean this surface? Can you use acetone?by Origamib - General
Quote691175002 QuoteI do understand this, but is it a problem? Surely each pulley will only deflect by x amount (lets say 20 microns) in a certain direction due to the tension in the belt system. It will not move in the other direction and so won't add positional errors. If you assume the system is under tension to begin with the pulleys will be at some intermediate level of deflection at rest,by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Quote691175002 I am skeptical of your proposed design because any system with that many components is implicitly assuming that everything is perfectly rigid. In the real world every pulley, shaft, and linear bearing has compliance. If you design such that error accumulates at each step, it becomes almost impossible to build a rigid mechanism. A good pulley mount might deflect 20 microns underby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
QuoteEzrec Just to be clear, I’m not trying to rip off either Polar/Printrbelt nor Blackbelt. Primarily this is for my own entertainment, and to research/develop 45 degree slicing technology. My first prototype is actually going to be a standard core XY platform, with a standard reprap slide-on-Y a 45 degree angle to simulate a conveyor (for developing the software). Sorry the comments were noby Origamib - Mechanics
S3D 4.0 has addressed nearly all these problems and more! Faith renewed I think... Shall update this thread soon with the results from the new slicer.by Origamib - General
QuoteFeign QuoteOrigamibI'm very surprised they havn't had backlash from the community for blatantly ripping off Blackbelt, but people seem happy just because it's a lower price.You should do some research before saying things like this. Polar 3D had working prototypes of this back in early 2016 at trade shows. Perhaps I may have been hasty to say they are ripping them off, and will withdraw myby Origamib - Mechanics
Fire prevention is alot more important here I think. Very few products are fireproof, yet we use them daily but they do consider common points of failure like wire strain, fuses and thermal fuses...all of which go unnoticed in most 3D printer designs. Thermal fuse costs pennies, low hanging fruit y'know?by Origamib - General
Keeping a flat surface seems to be very difficult. The Blackbelt has been well designed but still seems to show some banding in the prints most likely due to issues with unwanted movement on the belt system. The printrbot alternative looks rushed and the prints have even worse banding. I'm very surprised they havn't had backlash from the community for blatantly ripping off Blackbelt, but people sby Origamib - Mechanics
Quotebriangilbert Multiple processes for vase prints would be nice (found out this isn't possible yesterday) Have you tried importing the same model twice, stack them on top of each other and then set vase mode for each in a seperate process? With each process stop/starting at the heights needed. If this doesn't work, just print the first half and then restart a new print where you want the secoby Origamib - General
It looks to me like a CoreXY, but the belt travels along the gantry instead of the back of the machine where the belts would usually cross. I think it should work, I have a feeling only testing it will give you the answer. Good luck with all those pulleys! Seems like an over complication to meby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Why does anything become popular? It's a mix of cost, USP (unique selling point) and a very healthy dose of marketing. Prusa simplified the process of making a 3D printer. 1 sheet design with only a few rods to make the entire machine. It gave it a USP and a low cost. Chinese manufacturing put it on the map and Mr. Prusa is doing a damn fine job of riding the wave and keeping his machine at theby Origamib - General
Quoteslippyr4 I’d like much better support for macros in the scripts, and optional scripts for layer change and so on. Would definitely like that. Would be nice if they implemented a method to pause / unpause print or add other gcodes at certain points without editing .gcode file. Should be simple enough seeing as they already have processes at different heights in the model.by Origamib - General
Quotedc42 QuoteOrigamib Will be interesting to see if anyone goes to the expense of 4 screws just to utilise this feature on a terrible bed! To be honest, the expense of even the 2 motor set up is quite high given you also need an expansion board. Even so, this is a great option to have and I can see it having a lot of value in industrial spec printers. Great job. Thanks! A Duet 085, Duet Wifiby Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Quoteleadinglights YouTube recommended a video showing a Taz auto-leveling upgrade ( ) that had me thinking. The auto-leveling that was shown depended on electrically conductive buttons at the corners of the bed but it strikes me that there is no reason that this couldn't be used to check for nozzle cleanliness. A plan may be a very thin stainless steel shim, 0.05mm thick and say 20mm diameter,by Origamib - General
Stratasys machines tend to be over designed (note, this does not mean they are the gold standard, just that it cost more money!). They prefer machines that can't break, are simple and can withstand abuse from customers. This leads to heavy machines.. the weight of a moving X axis motor does not mean much to them when the axis already weighs so much. We tend to deal with desktop sized machines wiby Origamib - Mechanics
Will be interesting to see if anyone goes to the expense of 4 screws just to utilise this feature on a terrible bed! To be honest, the expense of even the 2 motor set up is quite high given you also need an expansion board. Even so, this is a great option to have and I can see it having a lot of value in industrial spec printers. Great job.by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
It is easy to have multiple profiles in S3D, just go to processes and it is the uppermost bar of the window. Click save as new and then both appear in the drop down window, edit either to your liking. I do a lot of printing, and in general S3D is the best tool I've used although I have not used recent versions of Cura or prusa slic3r. The speed of it and general utility is second to none. The aby Origamib - General
QuoteMutley3D @ Origamib - When I say y-splitter I refer explicitly to those single (standard) nozzle setups, which in fact doesnt even refer to the hotend, but the setup configuration, where there is a distinctly Y shaped splitter supporting two filaments that are fed one at a time. OR are we sayiung the same thing. A hotend with a Y split in the cold end? That would be in my book a Y splitter.by Origamib - General
QuoteDjDemonD Well maybe they just aren't that popular. When it comes to multi-colour printing its hard not conclude its quite a lot of trouble, and a pot of paint and a brush afterwards might be easier. I gave the y splitter a go but wrestling the firmware and slicer to produce the right output, then adding in wipe and prime towers etc.. was just too much trouble for me, as I mostly print mechanby Origamib - General
I'm going to guess simplicity.... It is very hard to deny the simplicity of a cantilevered bed, and the extra space it gives you to work with. It removes a lot of constraints from the design.by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
QuoteMutley3D @DjDemonD - Yes I totally agree about clear descriptions. Although not sure much value or credence can be taken from ebay adverts as to the veracity or accuracy of their descriptions. After all they are the ones that gave us the all metal JHead When you have a 2in1 mixer like a Cyclops, the ability to extrude from both sides at once is not down to the hotend itself, but more the sby Origamib - General
To be honest, I'm making this thread more as a rant then to celebrate the new release, and the other part is hoping that the new S3D FIXES these problems! I have to say I'm very annoyed that since getting S3D last summer, the only update we have had is for some extra printer profiles and languages. I honestly thought S3D was close to throwing in the towel for a bit. Problems I really hope theyby Origamib - General
There was a company who did a survey on this (I want to say PrintrBot?) and they found that the average needed build area is 150mm^3. This makes sense to me, I often only print small items. When I need the extra space though which happens more and more often these days, my 215mm^2 build plate simply isn't enough... I recently needed more height then 220mm on my Z axis as well. The problem is thby Origamib - Reprappers
I often find its quicker to design the part from scratch rather then to faff with stl files..... That said, Sketchup can handle .stl files with an addon and if I ever want to edit them I just use that. Fusion360 can also do it, but its annoying and a bit hidden away.by Origamib - General
Quoteo_lampe I have placed a 4.5mm steelball between stepper shaft and leadscrew. That way the z-compression is "0" but the coupler can still flex. That's a good idea, any pictures of the quality or banding (or lack of)?by Origamib - CoreXY Machines
Have you considered an AC motor? I found one in an old laminating machine that originally cost about £20. All you have to do is wire it up to mains and it spins at around 5~6 revolutions per minute. I'm not sure what the motor number is, but I can look it up if you need it. I currently use mine for a photogrammetry scanner turntable. I use it to rotate the item while a camera automatically takesby Origamib - General
QuoteDjDemonD And your example of a reliable sensor? Probe with 50% normal motor current if you're worried. I've tested piezo modules through tens of head crashes and haven't snapped a heatbreak yet. It's only probing at 5mm/s. To be fair, The first time I hooked up an IR probe I accidentally had a nozzle collision and left a nice dent. These days I hover over the emergency stop button, but regby Origamib - General
I don't see why you can't add metal filings to your polymer. The problem will be evenly distributing them to ensure the same conductivity everywhere on the build plate though.by Origamib - General